Island Time

Nantucket | Image & Design: Laura Messersmith

I’ve racked my brain trying to remember the year I first visited Nantucket on a day-trip from Boston and the best clue I can come up with is the Nantucket Over Sand Permit t-shirt I bought, which places the timeframe in 2006.

Since then I’ve been back a few more times and it has become one of my absolute, hands-down, favorite places in the world. Beautiful beaches, great food, and a relaxed pace combined in a setting that mixes a weathered New England fishing village with colonial-style prep. What’s not to like?

So, you can imagine how excited I was when I learned that the company Mike works for was sponsoring the Nantucket Wine Festival, and doubly so when I realized that the wine festival coincides with our wedding anniversary.

Celebrate our fourth anniversary by spending a long weekend on Nantucket in mid-May with the opportunity to attend events featuring great wine and delicious food pairings? Let me think for a moment….. YES, please!

I’ve been taking lots of pictures and scribbling lots of notes so that I can share my adventures and recommendations with you when we get back next week. In the meantime, here’s a photo from our first day to set the scene. 

Scouting: Santa Ynez Valley, California

I visited a winery for the first time when I was in college (the Finger Lakes are known for wine production) and it’s been love ever since, up to and including our honeymoon trip to Napa four years ago. Mike and I bought a few bottles for celebratory occasions – some of which we still have - and continue to take home ‘souvenirs’ whenever we taste something great. It’s a fun way to remember a trip months after you’re back home.

Santa Ynez Valley, California | Image: Laura Messersmith

So, when we received an invitation to a wedding in the Santa Ynez Valley – home of Santa Barbara’s wine country - we knew we had to tack on a few extra days for some ‘scouting.’ The valley is about 2 hours north of Los Angeles (depending on traffic, of course) and about 30 minutes east of Santa Barbara. Alternate time behind the wheel so you can take in the gorgeous vistas as you drive over the mountains from the coast - beautiful!

We found some great places during our long weekend and after the hustle of Manhattan it felt so restful to be in the country for a few days. We’d love to go back!

Here’s what we did:

Stay:

Hotel Corque I personally love to see a place on foot (you can take the girl out of the city…) and this hotel is right in the heart of Solvang, so it was easy to walk the town right from the front door. Service was hospitable; our room was very comfortable and immaculately clean, so top points there. Definitely a solid choice as a base of operations.

Solvang, California | Image: Laura Messersmith

See:

Wineries! There are a ton of options, both in the countryside and among the tasting rooms in Los Olivos and Solvang. Here are two where we particularly liked the wine and the tasting experience: Beckmen Vineyards and Stolpmann Vineyards Tasting Room. Yes, we brought home 'souvenirs.'

Los Olivos I loved the Western frontier town vibe here, even though Los Olivos has been on the map for more than 150 years. The architecture is a charming mix of Victorian gingerbread and prairie tin roof. Plan to spend a day or so wandering the streets and investigating the shops, - Los Olivos General Store was my absolute favorite, one of everything please! – visiting the tasting rooms, and browsing the art galleries.

Solvang feels like a storybook Nordic village was dropped into the California countryside and has the claim to fame of being the setting for the movie Sideways. It’s a mix of Scandinavian influences, but I think the Danish have a slight advantage…. Lots of picture taking opportunities – windmills, nesting stork statues, and whimsical architectural details.

Wildling Museum in Solvang is a small museum, but had two excellent and completely different exhibitions on during my visit. I loved both Thomas Paquette’s luminous landscape paintings of National Parks and Everett Ruess’s rustic woodblock prints of the California wilderness.

Santa Ynez Valley, California | Image: Laura Messersmith

Eat:

Bouchon we drove over to Santa Barbara one evening for a special dinner here and really enjoyed the dining experience. The food was delicious and the service was attentive and welcoming. Definitely try the scallops three ways and the lemon blue berry upside down cake – amazing!

Fresco Valley Café is tucked away off the main street, but well worth the few extra steps. We had a lovely, relaxing lunch in their garden (quiche Lorraine for me, Italian sandwich for Mike) one afternoon. The food is definitely fresh, as the restaurant name would suggest, and skillfully prepared. I did (begrudgingly) share a bite of my quiche but it was hard to give up.

Old Mission Santa Inés, Solvang, California I Image: Laura Messersmith

Olsens Danish Village Bakery is a family owned, casual café and bakery where I picked up a quick breakfast of pastries our first morning. Apricot Danish for me, savory ham and cheese croissant for Mike; and I dearly wished I had a purchased seconds. Really flaky, light pastry and a delicious, not overly sweet filling with whole pieces of apricot. I didn’t share…

Paula’s Pancake House seems to be a Solvang institution and I can see why it’s a favorite for both locals and visitors. I have high standards and I loved the thin, slightly lemony flavor of Paula’s Special Danish pancakes with strawberries. Mike was really happy with the California Special Omelet he had – excellent flavor, nice fresh avocado. Classic diner with a Danish twist.

Sides Hardware and Shoes Don’t let the name fool you; this is an excellent restaurant in Los Olivos that you absolutely must try. Sides is rocking that fine line between casual and polished both in their food and in the atmosphere. We can attest to the deliciousness of the Fried Brussels Sprouts, Fried Chicken Sandwich, and the Bacon Burger. An excellent spot to stop between wine tastings.

Solvang, California | Image: Laura Messersmith

Los Olivos, California | Image: Laura Messersmith

Scouting: Dubrovnik, Croatia

Dubrovnik, Croatia | Image: Laura Messersmith

When Mike was in the very earliest days of his Navy career he spent a summer on a submarine in the Mediterranean. The sub stopped in several ports during their deployment including cities in Portugal, Italy, Morocco, and Gibraltar – coincidentally all places I’d love to travel (not via submarine, though, thanks.) Even with all that stiff competition Dubrovnik, Croatia was still the place that stood out in his mind, and that he always wanted to visit again. Now that I’ve seen it for myself I can understand why it captured his imagination.

Dubrovnik is BREATHTAKING.

That's right, I busted out the italic, bold, all caps, so you know I'm serious. The city is built on steep rocky ground that slopes toward the deep blue Adriatic Sea. The landscape is dotted with spiky cypress trees, olive bushes, and purple irises. It’s gorgeous in a way that’s hard to believe or describe. Really you just have to go and see it for yourself because pictures alone don't do it justice.

We were lucky enough to visit in early April when the orange trees were blooming and before the cruise ships and tourists of the high season descended in earnest. Many of the Croatian people we met complimented us on our timing. So, I pass that tip along to you: April, September, October are the name of the game if you’re looking for a little breathing room.

Dubrovnik, Croatia | Image: Laura Messersmith

We were there for five days and I could have made good use of at least five more. It’s definitely a place I could return to happily. Here’s what we did:

Stay:

Vacation Rental by Owner (VRBO) I continue to be a huge fan of VRBO for finding unique places to stay. Case in point: we found an efficiency apartment owned by a Croatian family in Old City Dubrovnik. Simply outfitted with all the essentials (including WiFi - woot!) – the true selling point was the terrace garden partially bounded by the city walls. Way more personality than a hotel, and situated in an unforgettable location.

The Wall, Old Town Dubrovnik | Images: Laura Messersmith

See:

Old Town Dubrovnik This ancient city is beautiful and what’s even more amazing is that people continue to live and work within the walls in ways that are both super modern (the aforementioned WiFi) and old-school. We attempted to 'live' there too and went to the post office, did a spot of grocery shopping, and perused the daily green market. Definitely plan to spend a day winding your way up and down through the narrow streets and stairways.

The Wall In my mind this is a totally separate activity from the rest of Old Town. We went up near the Pile Gate (tickets were 100 kuna, or $20 USD) and from that vantage point the views of the city, mountains, and sea are spectacular. It took us almost 3 hours to walk/climb the 3km because I couldn’t stop taking pictures – “shutterbugging” was Mike’s term – so be prepared…

Buza Bar is the stuff of legend for a reason. It’s an open-air bar that clings to the rocks outside the wall (cliff jumping optional) and an amazing spot to soak in even more sea views and simultaneously wet your whistle. I recommend Ouzjsko Limon, aka the shandy of Croatia. Finding it is half the adventure, so I’ll just give you a hint: walk along the sea-side edge of the old city wall and look for the ‘cold drinks’ sign that points the way.

The Streets of Old Town Dubrovnik & "Cold Drinks" I Images: Laura Messersmith

Pelješac Peninsula Mike and I like cities, but we also love to see the countryside when we travel, especially if it’s wine country. The Pelješac Peninsula is an easy day trip from Dubrovnik and a offers a great opportunity to sample some Croatian wines, or stop in the town of Ston which produces sea salt the old-fashioned way (shallow sea water fields + sun) and is the source of Croatia’s oysters.

Korčula is an island off the coast of the Pelješac Peninsula and contains what appears to be a miniature version of Old Town Dubrovnik – fortified walls, Cathedral and all. The short boat trip from the mainland is an excellent excuse to be out on the crystal clear water.

Mostar (Bosnia) So, this isn’t actually in Croatia, but day trips are available through several Dubrovnik tour companies. Mostar is also ancient city, but unlike Dubrovnik it was formerly part of the Ottoman Empire and that influence can be felt in the architecture, traditional clothing, and decorative crafts. It's probably best known for the bridge that spans the river and the long tradition of brave people diving from the center span. (I was not one of them.) We didn’t see anyone attempt it while we were there, but word on the street says $100 euro will convince one of the young men lingering at the center to show the crowd how it’s done.

Clockwise from top Right: Korčula, Pelješac Winery, Ston, Dried Fruits | Images: Laura Messersmith

Mostar, Bosnia | Image: Laura Messersmith

Dine:

Gverović-Orsan (Zaton Mali, Dubrovnik) came recommended by a friend who dined there several years ago and still remembered the experience, which seems to be the unofficial motto of Dubrovnik. The food is excellent – fresh and prepared with a light touch that honors the ingredients – and the waterfront setting in a rustic stone boathouse on a small inlet is lovely. The standouts in a fantastic menu: gnocchi with lobster, wood fired scorpion fish, and crepes with ground almonds and Grand Marnier sauce. We wanted to eat here every night of our trip. 

Nautika (Dubrovnik) specializes in modern Mediterranean dishes made with locally sourced ingredients. The food is very good and the service is excellent, but it’s the setting that really makes Nautika memorable. The restaurant terrace overlooks the dramatically lit walls of Old Town and has views of the Adriatic. Very romantic and perfect for a special dinner.

Oliva Pizzeria (Old Town Dubrovnik) I probably should be embarrassed to admit it, but after almost a week away from home we were in the mood for something familiar, like a piece of pizza. Plain cheese is my yardstick and Oliva’s compared very favorably to our neighborhood “by-the-slice” joint. Croatia is just across the Adriatic Sea from Italy, so culinary crosspollination is inevitable and Italian food is generally a safe bet when you're tired of ćevapi.

Dubrovnik, Croatia | Image: Laura Messersmith

Scouting: Vienna & Salzburg, Austria

St. Gilgen and Lake Wolfgang, Austria | Image: Laura Messersmith

Mike and I decided to visit Austria in a somewhat roundabout way (no offense, I hope). We knew we wanted to go to Croatia – that was a definite – but there was a catch. Direct flights from the U.S. to Dubrovnik aren’t available and we would have to stop somewhere before continuing on to southern Croatia.

We chose Vienna as the lucky winner based on three factors: it is only about a 2 hour flight from Dubrovnik, neither of us had ever been there, and we heard very good things about the city. Decision made.

I’m here to tell you that the rumors are true. Vienna is a beautiful, stately city, as one would expect of the seat of the Habsburg Empire for hundreds of years. The elegant, formal touches of the royal court are everywhere in the architecture and the number of palaces, art collections, and cathedrals you can visit is amazing for a relatively small city. Salzburg is incredibly charming and the surrounding mountains and lakes are absolutely gorgeous. See the photo above - it doesn't look real, does it?

Vienna State Opera House | Image: Laura Messersmith

Since we only had a few days in Vienna and just one in Salzburg we needed to focus, so here’s what we did...

Stay:

Hotel Bristol Vienna is an old-school hotel in the best sense of the word. Multi-colored crystal chandeliers, brass fittings, and excellent service helped me channel my inner Habsburg duchess. Extra bonus: our room overlooked the Vienna State Opera House and with the windows open we could hear the strains of Madame Butterfly and Swan Lake. Lovely.

Vienna, Austria | Images: Laura Messersmith

See:

Albertina is a museum housed in a former palace and displays Duke Albert of Saxen-Teschen and Archduchess Marie Christine’s (sister of Marie Antoinette) collection of drawings, several Imperial staterooms, as well as modern additions to the collection of works. Notably, the Albrecht Durer “Young Hare” (1502) was on view and the detail is astounding. I’d recommend it, particularly if your time is limited, since the collection is a manageable size for an afternoon.

Imperial Treasury Vienna (aka The Kaiserliche Schatzkammer) is a great opportunity see the how the royal .001% lives and has some stunning examples of craftsman ship and artistry. My favorite was the royal hatbox. The Secular treasury has the expected jewels, crowns and, robes, while Ecclesiastical treasury surprised us with some rather spooky reliquaries. I’ll let you look that one up…

Spanish Riding School Imagine a traditional, American state fair horse ring if an Emperor designed it - chandeliers, statues, columns - and you’ll start to get an idea of the Spanish Riding School. The performance (see 8:00) is classical dressage - like ballet for equestrians - captivating and amazing for the graceful strength of the horses and riders.

Volksgarten, Vienna, Austria | Image: Laura Messersmith

Nachtmarkt Vienna A paradise for anyone who loves farmer’s markets, food stalls, and antiquing. We wandered through around lunchtime on a Saturday and enjoyed (attempting) to decipher the German signage and wading through the flood of locals out on a gorgeous spring day. Another excellent people watching opportunity.

Sound of Music Tour Two things - Salzburg should be a destination unto itself, and I have a love/tolerate relationship with tours. They’re helpful if time is limited, but then you’re on someone else’s schedule. That said, this one did allow us to make the most of our one day in the city, see 90% of the locations from one of my all time favorite movies, plus some breathtaking views of Alpine lakes and mountains. Pretty good work for just 10 hours.

Salzburg, Austria | Image: Laura Messersmith

Dine:

Neni am Nachtmarkt Israeli/Middle Eastern food in Vienna? Sure, why not. Another excellent recommendation from our Viennese friends, Neni is right in the heart of the Nachtmarkt and served as a welcome oasis on our first jet-lagged day. Loved the couscous salad with chicken, pomegranate, and goat cheese.

Figlmüeller When in Wien one must have Wiener schnitzel. We were directed to Figlmüeller by some Viennese friends and they were 100% right. We shared a giant, beautifully crispy schnitzel and a mixed salad (greens, carrots, sauerkraut, and potato salad) dressed lightly in vinaigrette. Definitely make a reservation here!

Mayer am Pfarrplatz is a winery, restaurant, and wine garden all in one. It was too cool to sit in the garden, but the cozy atmosphere of the restaurant made us feel right at home. Try a flight of the winery’s whites and reds, and if there’s something called “Pie Plant Cake” (aka Rhubarb) on the dessert menu get that too.

Salzburg, Austria | Images: Laura Messersmith

Sacher Café Vienna Vienna is known for its café culture, and this is a classic example. Sachertorte (chocolate cake) is the café’s namesake specialty, but we preferred the apfelstrudel (essentially apple pie.) Note of caution: ordering “coffee” in Austria seems to equal “double espresso.” A “café au lait” is more likely to approximate an American brewed drip coffee with steamed milk. Learned that one the hard way, twice!

Salzachgrill We didn’t set out to visit all the entire Hotel Sacher chain, but were lured in by the Sachergrill’s terrace. It overlooks the Salzach River and we had a relaxing lunch, did some people watching and sipped a local beer called Stiegl Lemon Radler and another local beverage called Almduddler (aka yodeling juice). I'm obsessed with both now.

Lake Leopoldskroner Weiher, Salzburg, Austria | Image: Laura Messersmith