Scouting: La Boîte à Epice

September 05, 2014 by Laura Messersmith in Scouting

La Boîte à Epice | Image:  Laura Messersmith — **La Boîte à Epice** | Image: *Laura Messersmith*

I sometimes think that understanding why certain ingredients in a recipe are there and how they work is half the battle when cooking. Does the cocoa content make a dark chocolate bar taste better in this cookie than say, milk chocolate or semi-sweet? Would a finishing salt or using a vanilla bean really pump up the flavor? These are questions answered through experience (aka trial and error) but also by knowing the options.

New York, thanks to the many, many nationalities and ethnicities that call it home, offers a huge array of ingredients and this fall I’ve decided to explore my options and check out some of the international groceries and specialty shops around the city.

My first stop on this odyssey was La Boîte à Epice. The creation of Chef Lior Lev Sercarz; roughly translated it means "The Spice Box" and contains more than 40+ specially blended spice mixes with evocative names like N. 34 Orchidea, N. 23 Tangier, and N. 7 Pierre Poivre. The mixes are made of everything from Fleur de Sel, rose blossom, cocoa, and tea, to lemon grass, saffron, star anise, and sumac – in some cases I had never even heard of the ingredient. Fenugreek? Annatto?

I think I opened every jar on the rack and found myself both delighted and overwhelmed. I’m accustomed to using herbs and spices individually in classic combinations – basil + oregano + garlic; rosemary + thyme + lemon zest.

So, looking at a mix like N. 13 Galil, which has verbena, white cardamom, and sage I was stumped. Chef Lior to the rescue! He has written a cookbook – The Art of Blending – full of gorgeous photography and delicious recipes in collaboration with other well-known chefs and food personalities to help beginners like me. Whew!

I’m excited to make some selections with N. 33 Mishmash (crystalized honey, saffron and lemon) topping my list. I can already see my culinary horizons expanding!

Minty Fresh Scouting: Jeni's Splendid Ice Cream Pop-up

August 29, 2014 by Laura Messersmith in Scouting

Gotham West Market NYC | Image: Laura Messersmith — **Gotham West Market NYC** | Image: *Laura Messersmith*

It seemed appropriate for the beginning of the Labor Day weekend to do one last – for now! - post on my search for the Best Mint Chocolate Chip Ice Cream. So far I haven’t found the “perfect cone” but I did come close and while the official search is over I will remain alert for new contenders for the throne.

For this chapter I stopped by West Gotham Market in Hell’s Kitchen to check out the pop-up location of Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams and try their take on a refreshing mint ice cream. Here’s the scoop from Jeni’s on Backyard Mint:

“Peppermint has a strong, sweet scent, and it also has a high concentration of oils, which are essential in flavoring ice cream. When you roughly chop fresh peppermint the way we do, the leaves are bruised, which opens the oil pockets. In our world, bruising is just the thing to do when you’re cold-soaking peppermint in cream. Soaked overnight, the peppermint scent is locked into the cream, ultimately giving Backyard Mint ice cream it’s cool, subtly sweet flavor and remarkably refreshing herb-garden finish.”

Jeni's Splendid Ice Creams Pop-up NYC | Image: Laura Messersmith — **Jeni's Splendid Ice Creams Pop-up NYC** | Image: *Laura Messersmith*

The Scientific Part:

The rules are the same and I’m judging based the contenders for Mint Chocolate champ on five criteria - Flavor and then the four “Cs” - Color, Creaminess, Chips, and Charm.

In my ideal world I want a dash of kitsch with my high-quality ingredients, so my preference is for pale green ice cream with intense mint flavor and deep dark chocolate shavings. Yes, I realize that this doesn’t make them ‘chips’ per se, but then they’re more smoothly incorporated with the ice cream. I’m giving extra points for a whimsical setting or special experience – that’s the Charm part.

Special Comment on the Score: Normally I just let the numbers tell the tale, but in this case I want to point out that the Backyard Mint is mint only, not mint chip - which makes me a little sad on Jeni’s behalf because I actually think this might be the best ice cream I had all summer, but it scores poorly due to the color and lack of chips. Rules are rules even if it’s tough to be objective, so here’s my recommendation: buy the Backyard Mint and stir in some chocolate shavings for the ultimate scoop.

Backyard Mint by Jeni's Splendid Ice Cream | Image: Laura Messersmith — **Backyard Mint by Jeni's Splendid Ice Cream** | Image: *Laura Messersmith*

Jeni’s Score:

Flavor – beautifully, clean clear mint flavor that truly tastes like the herb (5 of 5)

Color – peppermint pattie white, oh dear (1 of 5)

Creaminess – gorgeously smooth and creamy, love! (5 of 5)

Chips – alas, there were no chips at all, but then this was just Mint ice cream (1 of 5)

Charm – Gotham West Market isn’t exactly charming, so much as ‘cool’ but it does have great outdoor space (4 of 5)

Total Score: 16/25

Current Rankings:

For folks following these adventures at home, here are the current rankings of the ice creams and shops I’ve visited so far

1. The Lands at Hillside Farms: 22/25

2. Graham’s Fine Chocolate & Ice Cream: 21/25

3. Ample Hills Creamery: 20/25

4. Black Dog Gelato: 19/25

5. Van Leeuwen Artisan Ice Cream: 18/25

6. Bobtail Ice Cream: 17/25

7. Jeni’s Splendid Ice Cream: 16/25

8. Cayuga Lake Creamery: 16/25

9. Sundaes and Cones: 11/25

Scouting: Brooklyn Grange Farm

August 22, 2014 by Laura Messersmith in Scouting

Brooklyn Grange Farm, Brooklyn Navy Yard | Image: Laura Messersmith — **Brooklyn Grange Farm, Brooklyn Navy Yard** | Image: *Laura Messersmith*

The longer I live in New York the less surprised I am by the ingenuity of New Yorkers. Millions of people manage to go about life side by side with millions of other people in small spaces, the majority without cars, and it all seems to work somehow – miraculous and mundane.

That’s pretty much how I felt when I learned about Brooklyn Grange Farm – yes that’s right the words “Brooklyn” and “Farm” are both in the name. Farming, something humans have been doing for thousands of years but in an urban setting on a large scale. As I snooped through their website it began to make perfect sense and then I had to see it for myself.

The idea in a nutshell is to repurpose otherwise un- or under-utilized commercial rooftops – old-school concrete warehouses for example – and turn them into growing space for crops like kale, tomatoes, carrots, eggplant, zucchini, peppers, etc, etc... The farms also offers a home for honeybee hives, chicken coops, helps recycle and manage rainwater, and processes compost from household food scraps to fertilize the beds.

The produce is sold at local farmers markets, to restaurants, and to CSA members in the New York area. I thought I had a pretty solid idea of what it would be like, but I was still amazing by the scope of the project and frankly by the breathtaking views of the Manhattan skyline from the top of Farm #2 in the Brooklyn Navy Yard.

If you’re even remotely interested in gardening or local produce I highly recommend taking one of their tours, and I already have my sights set on the some of the events the Brooklyn Grange Farm hosts. The Brown Paper Dinner in early October for a certain husband’s birthday, for example…

Minty Fresh Scouting: Chicago Edition

August 15, 2014 by Laura Messersmith in Scouting

How is it possible that Summer feels like it’s drawing to a close when we’ve just barely reached mid-August? It was down right chilly this morning on my walk with Maddie and I’m thinking seriously of making soup today – what’s that about?

But, you’ll be glad to know that I’m resisting this early onset autumn and persevering in my search for the Best Mint Chocolate Chip Ice Cream with not one, not two, but three (I am seeking help at the gym…) different ice cream samples during our trip to Chicago last weekend. Honestly, when I think of the Windy City’s cuisine my mind goes more to deep dish pizza or pretzels not so much ice cream, but I have to say I was impressed by all three of the fine establishments I visited. They’re collected here for your minty pleasure.

The Scientific Part:

The rules are the same and Mint Chocolate Chip is the name of the game. (A rapper I am not.) I’m judging based on five criteria - Flavor and then the four “Cs” - Color, Creaminess, Chips, and Charm.

The scoop on the contestants:

Black Dog Gelato | Image: Laura Messersmith — **Black Dog Gelato** | Image: *Laura Messersmith*

Black Dog Gelato (Ukrainian Village/Chicago)

“Black Dog Gelato creates gourmet gelato and sorbets combining the artisanal process with inventive and intriguing flavors. Gelato is made fresh daily in small batches and begins with the simplest ingredients: milk, cream, sugar, eggs, freshly toasted nuts, seasonal fruits, and quality chocolates.”

Bobtail Ice Cream | Image: Laura Messersmith — **Bobtail Ice Cream** | Image: *Laura Messersmith*

Bobtail Ice Cream (Lakeview/Chicago)

“Bobtail is the only Chicago company that makes truly homemade, hard-pack ice cream. We specialize in classic, seasonal and locally-inspired ice cream flavors… use[ing] only top-quality ingredients. Bobtail combines three generations of Wilcoxon family recipes and small-town ideals with fresh-energy and an urban touch!”

PS: The Chicago Tribune says “Bobtail” a slang term derived from the nickname of the handle on an old-fashioned soda fountain. Fun fact.

Graham's Fine Chocolate & Ice Cream | Image: Laura Messersmith — **Graham's Fine Chocolate & Ice Cream** | Image: *Laura Messersmith*

Graham’s Fine Chocolate & Ice Cream (Geneva, IL)

The Graham’s site is a bit cagey on the details, but careful research across the Internet gleaned the following info and a revelation: it’s gelato!

“Homemade. Hand dipped. The ultimate taste in fine chocolates. Using only the finest and freshest ingredients from around the globe, we combine taste with artistry to make our signature candies.”

After a gelato taste-testing trip to Italy, [owner Bob Untiedt] came home inspired to bring this creation to his customers. “Twenty-five years ago, when we started making gelato, it was just easier to say it was ice cream,” said Untiedt, who makes all varieties with a special gelato machine. – BataviaSun.com

Oreo Mint by Black Dog Gelato | Image: Laura Messersmith — **Oreo Mint by Black Dog Gelato** | Image: *Laura Messersmith*

Black Dog’s Score:

Flavor – intensely minty flavor that built in intensity (5 of 5)

Color – the ideal shade of pale green! (5 of 5)

Creaminess – beautifully smooth and creamy - this is gelato after all (5 of 5)

Chips – I hate to dock points on a technicality, but actually they were Oreos… (2 of 5)

Charm – cute shop, but it lacked a certain I-don’t-know-what (2 of 5)

Total Score: 19/25

Mint Chip by Bobtail Ice Cream | Image: Laura Messersmith — **Mint Chip by Bobtail Ice Cream** | Image: *Laura Messersmith*

Bobtail’s Score:

Flavor – gently minty and refreshing (4 of 5)

Color – a pale white, bummer (1 of 5)

Creaminess – dense and creamy, excellent texture (5 of 5)

Chips – large, thin shards of semi sweet chocolate (4 of 5)

Charm – rocking an 1950s ice cream shop vibe in a way that tiptoes at the edge of kitsch (3 of 5)

Total Score: 17/25

Green Mint Chip by Graham's Fine Chocolate & Ice Cream | Image: Laura Messersmith — **Green Mint Chip by Graham's Fine Chocolate & Ice Cream** | Image: *Laura Messersmith*

Graham’s Score:

Flavor – gently minty would have loved a touch more cooling flavor (4 of 5)

Color – the perfect pale, Palm Beach green! (5 of 5)

Creaminess – quite creamy and smooth I should have realized it was gelato… (4 of 5)

Chips – large, thin shards of semi sweet chocolate – very similar to Bobtail (4 of 5)

Charm – old-fashioned, Wonka-style candy store + white Adirondack chairs for outdoor lounging (4 of 5)

Total Score: 22/25