Shrimp & Sausage Jambalaya

June 18, 2014 by Laura Messersmith in Cooking with the Contessa

Ina Garten, aka The Barefoot Contessa, and her cookbooks are already a source of guidance for basic recipes but her show serves as my inspiration for more adventurous culinary efforts. I’ll follow along with an episode of the Barefoot Contessa and choose a recipe to try in my tiny New York kitchen. We’ll see if I can keep up with the Contessa!

Episode: “Cooking with Rice”

The Set-up: Ina knows a metric ton about rice and how to cook it.

The Menu: Shrimp and Sausage Jambalaya, Maple Pecan Rice Pudding

0:34 – We start with Ina and her friend Amelia Durand in the kitchen to learn a Durand family recipe for Shrimp and Sausage Jambalaya. I loooove jambalaya; this should be good…

1:06 – Apparently Amelia is originally from Louisiana (yay, authentic!) and it sounds like her family may own/operate the entire small town she grew up in. Very My Cousin Vinny.

2:17 – Amelia explains that this recipe has a ton of chopping involved, first Andouille sausage and smoked ham, then comes ‘The Trilogy,’ aka the basis of Louisiana cooking: onions, celery, and bell peppers. Ina is in full sous-chef mode.

3:44 – Fun facts from Louisiana Cooking 101 – the jambalaya they’re making today is Creole-style and typical of the cuisine in New Orleans (tomato based, derived from Spanish paella). Cajun-style is more meat based and tends to be found inland.

5:26 – As the other vegetables sauté the chopping continues with tomatoes, garlic, and fresh jalapeño. Amelia says traditionally cayenne pepper is used, but she likes the flavor of fresh jalapeño. I have to side with tradition on this one, jalapeño isn’t really my bag.

6:09 – Ina says we’ll need a really big pot for this recipe and I can see why – they’ve put piles of chopped veggies in and we still have to add the rice, shrimp and cooked meats.

10:58 – Time to add more spice in the form of Tabasco sauce – Ina pretends to be apprehensive about the heat, but then promptly loses count of how many dashes she’s added. This could be dangerous, folks.

11:23 – At 24 items the ingredient list for this recipe is really long – “everything but the kitchen sink” – but sometimes I actually like doing a lot of prep. Something about the sense of accomplishment? I know, weird.

12:34 – The rice is done, now time for a little lemon juice, some fresh herbs, and the raw shrimp. This is brilliant: the steam cooks the shrimp perfectly so everything is ready together.

14:19 – Mmmm. Y’all, this looks awesome – shrimp, rice, sausage, all the brightly colored vegetables. I bet the flavor is a-mazing.

18:11 – Next, we take a little trip to the grocery store with Ina where she explains that there are different kinds of rice (Arborio, brown, sushi) and the importance of using the right kind for each recipe. At no point does she mention Minute Rice, so I’m guessing that’s always a no-go?

19:30 – Since we’re all friends here I feel safe telling you that I have a deep-seated dread of all things ‘porridge’ related. Cream of wheat, oatmeal, bread pudding it all gives me the chills, so Maple Pecan Rice Pudding is going to be a tough one to watch.

20:02 – Here goes. I’m being brave. Ina must know I need a little fortification because she’s soaking the raisins in Bourbon (Maker’s Mark, FYI).

21:35 – I can tell that she’s really trying to help me out because the shots of rice cooking in half and half are kept to a minimum. For rice pudding eaters that probably sounds delicious, for me not so much.

22:54 – How do I know I’m hardened against rice pudding? Even the addition of maple syrup, bourbon, vanilla, and toasted pea-cans (pronounced like a proper Yankee) can’t tempt me. Ina, you’re on your own.

25:13 – Whew, made it through that in one piece. Now it’s Ask Ina time. Question #1: How to cook fluffy white rice? Ina suggests this ratio: 1 cup basmati rice, 1 ¾ cups of water, and a tablespoon of butter. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer, covered for 15 minutes. Off the heat, covered to finish steaming for 5 minutes. Seems pretty straightforward.

26:19 – Question #2: How to jazz up plain white or brown rice? This is a fairly silly question, but Ina manages to be kind. She advises using chicken stock in place of water or stirring in sautéed onions or fresh herbs.

27:21 – Question #3: Why does brown rice turn out so wet? I didn’t know this, but Ina says that brown rice is always wetter that white. Who knew?

28:09 – Question #4: The required how to cook Risotto Question. Risotto should cook in 25-30 minutes, no more no less! Add hot stock a ladle full at a time and stir until it absorbs. At the end, mix in lots of grated Parmesan cheese. Cheese makes everything better.

29:22 - Question #5: Do you have a recipe for rice pilaf? She does: Wild Rice Pilaf! Wow, that was a lot of questions. The moral of the story: rice can be used in lots of different savory and sweet dishes. Enjoy!

Final Thoughts:

The influences on Cajun/Creole cuisine make it so complex – French, Spanish, Southern – amazing.

Rice is actually a much more complex topic than I realized; clearly this needs more study.

I’d love to see more guests share some of their regional or family specialties – such a cool look into a different kind of cooking.

Lessons Learned:

Jambalaya is one of my favorite things to order in Southern restaurants, but I’ve never tried to make it myself. So, naturally I had to try the Shrimp and Sausage Jambalaya – the combination of flavors and ingredients sounded amazing. The list of ingredients is rather long, but 99% (with perhaps the exception of Andouille sausage) are definitely in every grocery store.

Overall this isn’t a particularly difficult recipe, assuming you have time to do the chopping. I made this on a Saturday afternoon when there was plenty of time for prep and I didn’t feel rushed through the process. I normally cut Ina’s recipes in half since it’s usually just Mike and I, but I knew leftovers from this dish would re-heat well. The full portion definitely feeds 6-8 people generously.

One important note – since different rice brands cook differently; check the package directions on the long-grain, white rice you use to be sure the liquid/rice ratio is correct. I used American Basmati, which called for 1 cup of dry rice to 1 ¾ cups of stock, so I had to reduce the liquid a little.

Small Kitchen Friendly?

Actually, yes. This is a one pot meal and the kitchen tools needed to make it are minimal. I used a 5 qt dutch oven, a medium sized cutting board, and two small prep bowls to hold the chopped vegetables.

I also used a chef’s knife (onions, peppers, etc.), a serrated knife (sausage, tomatoes, etc.), a large slotted spoon, a wooden spatula, and measuring cups & measuring spoons.

The Verdict:

Mike and I loved the Shrimp and Sausage Jambalaya. There’s conflicting wisdom about eating spicy food in hot weather, personally I’d be happy to have a bowl of steaming jambalaya on a warm June day or in the middle of winter. I thought the spice was hot, but not overwhelming (Mike added sriracha because he’s nuts) and we both liked the depth of flavor that the combination of sausage, shrimp, and vegetables create. Definitely make this when you have a big group to feed, or want lots of ‘seconds.’

Rosé Colored Glasses

June 16, 2014 by Laura Messersmith in Favorite Things

Design: Laura Messersmith \ Image: Martha Stewart Living — Design: *Laura Messersmith \* Image: *Martha Stewart Living*

Is it just me, or is rosé having kind of a moment right now? I swear every magazine, Pinterest board, and Instagram account is full of glasses tinted pink. I know it’s a classic ‘summer wine,’ but it seems particularly in fashion this year.

I’ve been fully on board the rosé bandwagon for a while now, so you won’t catch me complaining about its presence on more wine lists and any restaurant that stocks Fritz-Hasselbach Fritz's Rosé 2013 will get double points in my book. Our latest Plonk shipment included a bottle and my love for rosé was never more rewarded than after my first taste.

Pale blush to deep cherry it all looks delicious to me, but Fritz’s version is particularly bright and tangy with raspberry notes. I’m sort of embarrassed, but mostly feeling a pleasant sense of anticipation that I’ve already called ‘dibs’ on the last glass. I’m biding my time, waiting for the right moment to enjoy it and planning to pick-up a few more bottles to enjoy over the next few months…. Fritz would be a great addition to any barbeque or late afternoon on the porch.

While some rosés, like my friend Fritz, can stand on their own while others need a little help. Enter a welcome rescuer: sangria. I came across this recipe for a Rosé Cucumber Cooler, which involves even more of my favorite flavors – St. Germaine, lemon, and cucumber – I immediately added it to my list of warm weather mixed drinks. Big plans for this coming weekend…hope you have some fun things on the rosy pink horizon too!

Scouting: Bonnie Slotnick Cookbooks

June 13, 2014 by Laura Messersmith in Scouting

Bonnie Slotnick Cookbooks, Greenwich Village | Image: Laura Messersmith — **Bonnie Slotnick Cookbooks, Greenwich Village** | Image: *Laura Messersmith*

Once upon a time, some brilliant soul coined the term ‘hangry’ defined by Urban Dictionary as being “so hungry that your lack of food causes you to become angry, frustrated or both.” Sounds unpleasant.

I am guilty of hangry feelings from time to time, but I also need a term for humidity-induced irritability. If the Internet could please work on developing this term for me I’d be grateful. This whole week and again today has been just full of moody, rainy, not really hot, but still sticky days that put me right into a funk.

What’s a girl to do when she’s in the midst of a weather-induced bad attitude? In my case, a little change of scenery helps and preferably one that includes an adorable neighborhood, a mild dose of retail therapy, and some escapist reading.

Ladies and Gentlemen, I give you: Bonnie Slotnick Cookbooks a shop specializing in food-related books and periodicals deep in the heart of Greenwich Village. Add an ice cream cone to the mix and I’m telling you it’s gold.

The shop is packed floor to ceiling with books of all shapes and sizes covering range of food and cooking related topics from a variety of eras – antique to modern. Alongside what I’d consider the classics of cooking and commentary (James Beard, Julia Child, Paul Bocuse, M.F.K. Fisher, Elizabeth David) are spiral-bound volumes by local Junior League chapters, glossy hardcovers by celebrity chefs, cozy memoirs from literary food writers, and tomes on entertaining.

Bonnie Slotnick Cookbooks is a great spot for happy discoveries and treasure hunting – no need to wait for a rainy day. I easily spent over an hour browsing the shelves before finally forcing myself out the door a like-new copy of Judith Jones’s The Tenth Muse: My Life in Food tucked under my arm feeling significantly less grumpy. Crisis averted!

Peach & Blueberry Crumble

June 11, 2014 by Laura Messersmith in Cooking with the Contessa

Episode: “Keep It Sweet”

The Set-up: Ina is sharing her favorite dessert ideas and schooling her business partner, Frank Newbold, on how it’s done.

The Menu: Peach and Blueberry Crumble, Lime Meringue Tart, Chocolate Dipped Strawberries

0:47 – We start with Ina preparing the Peach and Blueberry Crumble while Frank perches at the end of the counter like an attentive school boy; spiral notepad in hand.

1:17 – Frank and Ina laugh over the fact that the first ingredient is butter and the pounds and pounds of butter they used at Barefoot Contessa. Butter is no laughing matter.

2:01 – It’s been approximately 2 minutes since the cooking lesson began and Frank has asked like 4 questions about the brown sugar, cinnamon, crumble depth. Dude, you know this class is pass/fail right?

3:32 – The crumble part of the crumble is done and now we get a quick tutorial on the fruit filling. Pro Tip #1: to get the skins off the peaches poach in boiling water for 1 minute, then plunge into ice water for a minute and they slip right off. Magic!

4:14 – Now Frank as audience-participation-ringer asks what other crumbles we could make? Well, Frank I’m glad you asked! Over a cup of coffee Ina makes some suggestions interspersed with scenes from shows past: apple with Eli Zabar, apple & pear with Jeffrey; apple, pear & cranberry for the barn warming; peach & raspberry for card night all without Frank….hmm.

5:17 – Frank realizes that his non-card playing reputation has interfered with his access to crumble-related dinners. (Cue feverish memorization of bridge strategy…) Ina soothes him with his own little crumble a la mode and the promise of Lime Meringue Tart once he finishes his homework. Crisis averted.

9:25 – Lime Meringue Tart time. Ina explains that when she wants to revisit a classic recipe she’ll just replace an ingredient (limes for lemons in this case) and see how good it is.

10:59 – Lime curd is pretty disturbing before it’s cooked - I’m glad she warned us that it would look like something went wrong! Citrus acid + eggs = oh dear.

11:32 – Ina is also disturbed by the idea of a “skin” from forming on the cooked lime curd while it chills – her expression is classic. Pro Tip #2: pressing a piece of plastic wrap right on to the surface will prevent that from happening.

12:19 – Ina’s quick tutorial on sweet pastry for the tart shell can be summarized in one Pro Tip #3 (a tip for the ages): to get crisp flaky pastry keep everything freezing cold. Flour, butter, Crisco, water. You’ve been warned.

14:45 – Next we get a lesson on rolling out the dough, prepping it in the tart pan, and blind baking. I learned about 70 things in 90 seconds - where are Frank and his notepad when I need them?

15:07 – This is a lot to take in, but here’s a quick run down of the Pro Tips I picked up: #4 when rolling out dough shift it periodically to make sure it isn’t sticking to the counter. #5: fold the dough over the rolling pin to help move it into the pan. #6: never stretch the dough; just settle it into the edges of the pan. #7: dried beans make great pie weights.

19:43 – Now for the meringue part and Ina has some great recommendations. (I think this is a new record) Pro Tip #8: Room temperature eggs are necessary to get the volume you want in meringue.

20:13 – After dropping some serious pastry knowledge Ina tries to comfort us that each step in the process can be done individually, so it doesn’t feel daunting. Perhaps I’d feel better if some of those limes were added to a margarita….

22:21 – Tart is assembled (baked shell + chilled lime curd) and next it’s time to pipe the meringue. Hmm, which pattern to use? Shell? Swirl? I swear she’s messing with me.

23:02 – The tart is out of the oven and it looks awesome. New life goal: learn to pipe meringue from a pastry bag.

26:11 – Next, Chocolate Dipped Strawberries which Ina claims is her back up dessert when she has a ‘disaster.’ I’d love to have some stories of recipes gone awry…

27:28 – Mmm. Melted chocolate with orange zest and orange liqueur stirred in – forget the strawberries, just a spoon would do nicely.

29:06 – Frank is back for the required taste test. Dessert and he secures an invitation to the next party? This man is so lucky.

Final Thoughts:

Ina’s approach to riffing on classic recipes by changing one ingredient is really smart. Clever girl.

Who knew that temperatures were so critical to baking success – cold butter, room temperature eggs, etc?

Lord, I love dessert. It really is the most important, err memorable, part of a meal.

Lessons Learned:

The fruit in the produce section has been calling my name and since both peaches and blueberries are in season right now I just had to make the Peach and Blueberry Crumble. This really is a fairly simple recipe with essentially two components – the fruit filling and the crumble topping, neither of which requires much other than measuring and mixing a little – and prep time is relatively short.

Poaching the peaches is a little bit of an ‘extra step’ but once the water is boiling it only takes about 2 minutes total and the skins really do come right off. One note – I never realized how slippery a naked peach could be, so take your time with the slicing. Sharp knife + peach juice = danger. I do recommend the parchment lined sheet tray step too – my little ramekins definitely bubbled over a little and it was nice not to have to clean up a mess in the oven.

Small Kitchen Friendly?

Sorta. You will need a large pot, three bowls (ice water bath, fruit filling, and crumble mixture), plus 4-6 ramekins, and a sheet pan. I also used a slotted spoon, spatula, pastry cutter, measuring cups and spoons, and a bird beak paring knife to cut the peaches. (I like that knife best for cutting sections out of stone fruit, but a regular paring knife would work too.)

That’s a fair amount of ‘stuff’ but neither the pot or the ice water bowl need to be washed afterward, so there’s that.

The Verdict:

I made the Peach and Blueberry Crumble for Mike and I on a moody, rainy day this week and it was awesome. Excellent flavors (don’t skip the lemon!) and a ramekin-sized portion with a scoop of vanilla bean ice cream is the perfect amount. Sweet, but tangy, warm fruit and cold ice cream. Make this for a summer barbeque or for a little treat on a grumpy weather day – you won’t be sorry!