Apple Cake Tatin

March 04, 2015 by Laura Messersmith in Cooking with the Contessa

Each week I follow along with Ina Garten (aka the Barefoot Contessa) and attempt to recreate one of her dishes in my tiny New York City kitchen. The catch? This is my version of cooking school and I’m making these recipes for the first time. I’ll share both my successes and um, challenges, along the way and we’ll see if I can keep up with the Contessa!

Episode: “Housewarming Party”

The Set-up: Ina’s friend Valerie moved into the neighborhood, so Ina is bringing her an entire dinner to celebrate the new house.

The Menu: Cheese Puffs, Herbed New Potatoes, Loin of Pork with Green Peppercorns, Roasted Asparagus, Apple Cake “Tatin”

0:29 – Before we even start with the cooking can I be the first to say: this is major dinner – five (!) recipes all for a housewarming party? Whoa.

1:10 – Now that I have that out of my system we can get on with the Loin of Pork with Green Peppercorns.

2:34 – In keeping with our theme of making a Major Dinner, Ina is using a bone-in pork rib roast, frenched and all. Not sure that my local grocery store stocks such a thing….

3:27 – Now for the rub/marinade which involves whole grain and Dijon mustard along with freshly ground fennel seed. Yum!

4:15 – The appetizer for this Major Dinner are Cheese Puffs - involves pâte au choux, the type of pastry dough that is used for éclairs, beignets, and profiteroles.

5:44 – I loooove all the delicate little pastries I mentioned above, so trust that I am watching this process like a hawk.

6:06 – After making croissants I (unfairly) assumed that pâte au choux would also involve 5,000 steps, but it actually doesn’t seem that hard! I’m starting to dream of beignets…

7:32 – Dang. I knew there had to be a catch: piping bag and accompanying skills required!

10:45 – Now for dessert: Apple Cake “Tatin” which involves making caramel – yikes!

11:20 – I notice that Ina cut the apple slices in really thick wedges – I assume that pouring hot caramel over them does a lot of the cooking?

12:53 – Cakes that incorporate sour cream (or in my case, greek yogurt) are the best – so moist!

13:29 – Valerie has arrived to collect the Cheese Puffs and get instructions on re-heating. She seems to live directly next door to Ina – guess who I’d borrow a cup of sugar from…

14:21 – The Herbed New Potatoes go into a dutch oven to cook themselves with just a little butter – this is a technique I need to try.

19:14 – Time to turn the Apple Cake Tatin out of its pan and I swear this is one of the most stressful things about baking. Bundt cakes half stuck in the pan is my nightmare.

19:22 – Spoiler alert: Ina’s comes out just fine. We also check-in with Valerie talking to herself about the good fortune of having Ina next-door, but do I detect a dash of haterade in her words?

20:47 – Our main course - Loin of Pork with Green Peppercorns – is out of the oven and on cue registers exactly 140 degrees. Good job, pork.

21:03 – Now to make the sauce with the green peppercorns. A little research tells me that they are unripe version of what becomes black peppercorns preserved in a brine.

22:35 – Ina is putting the final touches on dinner – prepping the Roasted Asparagus and adding herbs to the Herbed New Potatoes.

23:18 – Back over to Valerie and the Cheese Puffs and she’s using her best scheming villain voice, and plotting how many she can eat before the guests arrive. “Divine, just diviiiine” like they’re stolen jewels. Not that I can relate or anything.

24:46 – Ina’s friend Frank arrives to cart dutch ovens around. I never noticed how tall he is before, but next to Ina he looks like a giant.

28:24 – Valerie is put in charge of passing the cheese puffs around while Ina plates dinner and we know she’s not to be trusted! An unusual misstep for Ina.

29:50 – Everyone sits down to eat and as Ina reveals the Apple Cake “Tatin” for dessert. Valerie gets to keep the leftovers, so I’m guessing those will be some small slices passed around…

Final Thoughts:
I’m seriously tempted to try making choux pastry. Am I crazy?

Starting to feel like my lack of piping skills needs to be addressed. This is getting ridiculous.

I gave poor Valerie a hard time for coveting those cheese puffs, but who hasn’t been tempted to eat half of something before guests even arrive and pretend that's all you made?

Lessons Learned:

I pretty much can’t believe that I’ve never attempted anything like an Apple Tart Tatin or in this case Apple Cake “Tatin”. This oversight can probably be blamed on the “caramel-factor” which loosely translates to my fear of anything that requires molten sugar and/or a candy thermometer.

Caramel – This was nerve-racking, but ultimately not too hard. If you’re nervous like I was use a big pot – it’s less intimidating some how. DON’T stir, just veeery gently swirl the water and sugar together. Lastly, this takes longer than you might think – about 5 minutes by my count. Once the caramel begins change from semi-opaque white to light gold keep a close watch – you’re shooting for something the color of honey.

Apple Placement – This probably sounds silly, but it took me a few tries to figure out how to fit the right number of apple slices in my pie dish, so I’d wait on buttering until you have a plan of attack. In my 9” pie plate 9 thick slices scalloped around the perimeter with the remaining 3 slices in the middle was just right.

Butter – A note on butter. The recipe says “generously” and I can’t emphasize enough: don’t skimp! I found that smearing a healthy 1 – 1 1/2 tablespoons with the empty butter wrapper was just about right. The cake, apples, and the accompanying caramel were released from the pie plate without too much trouble.

Releasing the Cake – Again, the recipe calls for the baked cake to cool for 15 minutes before turning it out onto a plate. I used the cover and flip technique and then let gravity do the rest. Here’s the thing: don’t wait too much past that 15 minute mark or the caramel will cool too much and you’ll be chipping it from the bottom.

Small Kitchen Friendly?
Kinda. I used a medium sauce pan, medium and small mixing bowls, hand-held electric mixer, and 9 inch pie plate. I also used a rubber spatula, medium cutting board, chef’s knife, peeler, microplane grater, measuring cups and spoons.

The Verdict:
I made Apple Cake “Tatin” as dessert for a dinner party with friends and it seemed to be a hit, or at least they were too polite to say otherwise! Personally, I loooved it – the apples and caramel are the star, but the cake itself is really delicious too. It kind of reminds me of angelfood cake – totally different textures of course - there’s just enough lemon zest and vanilla to make it flavorful on it’s own, but still let the fruit shine. I will be making this again, for sure.

Cranberry Apricot Almond Granola Bars

March 02, 2015 by Laura Messersmith in Cooking

When I’m on my way out the door and need a quick, easy snack – preferably a snack that’s healthy and delicious – I often reach for a granola bar. I’ve been buying them for years and it seems silly now, but it never really occurred to me that I could make them myself, until I came across a recipe for homemade breakfast bars in the Smitten Kitchen Cookbook. Lightbulb moment ensued.

I’m pretty particular and I often have something very specific in mind, so the concept of having exactly what I wanted was pretty appealing. (If you've ever had the "pleasure" of perusing my Christmas list this comes as no surprise.) I started experimenting with flavor and ingredient combinations and came up with Cranberry Apricot Almond Granola Bars. My version mixes the traditional whole grains, dried fruit, and nuts with almond butter and whey powder to amp up the protein. The best part: they’re crazy delicious, like I could seriously eat a whole pan by myself, which probably defeats the purpose.

Definitely mix up a batch – it will take all of 15 minutes – and you'll see what I mean about these sweet, salty, fruity bars.

Cranberry Apricot Almond Granola Bars (yield: 8 bars)

Ingredients:
3/4 cup chopped dried apricots
1/4 cup dried cranberries aka Craisins
1/2 cup thinly sliced almonds
1 1/4 cups Quaker Old-fashioned Oats
2 tablespoons whole wheat flour
1/4 cup vanilla whey protein powder
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/3 teaspoon ginger
1/4 cup olive oil
1/4 cup, plus 1 tablespoon almond butter
1/4 cup, plus 1 tablespoon honey
1/3 teaspoon vanilla extract
Non-stick spray

Instructions:
Pre-heat oven to 350 degrees F.

Spray the interior of an 8x8x2 inch pan or 9 inch pie plate with non-stick spray and line the bottom with parchment paper.

Chop the dried apricots to 1/4 inch pieces and stir together with the cranberries, almonds, rolled oats, whole wheat flour, whey protein powder, kosher salt, and ginger in a medium bowl.

In a separate smaller mixing bowl, combine the olive oil, almond butter, honey, and vanilla extract until evenly combined. Note: measuring olive oil first will make it easier to remove the almond butter and honey from the cup.

Pour the almond butter mixture over the dry ingredients and stir until all the fruit, nuts, and oats are evenly coated. The granola mixture will be stiff, but should stick together. Add a touch more honey if the granola is too crumbly.

Spread the batter into the prepared baking pan and use a rubber spatula press the mixture into the pan in an even layer, don’t neglect the corners!

Bake at 350 degrees F for 20-25 minutes until the edges begin to brown and the top turns lightly golden. Cool the bars completely in the pan before turning out onto a cutting board. Slice the baked bars into squares.

Wrap the bars individually in plastic, or store in an airtight container with a piece of parchment paper or waxed paper between the layers.

Adapted and rewritten from Smitten Kitchen Cookbook Almond Date Breakfast Bars (similar here and reprinted here).

Small Kitchen Friendly?
Yes, indeed! I used a 9” pie plate, one medium mixing bowl, one small mixing bowl, a small cutting board, a rubber spatula, chef’s knife, and measuring cup and spoons. Parchment paper will also be very helpful.

The Verdict:
I tested an early version on some friends before I had the texture quite right, and even with a slightly unruly crumble to contend with the flavors came through as a winner. The mildly bitter almond acidity is balanced against the tang of the almonds and cranberries, and mellowed by the honey. The slightly salty finish adds just the right note and keeps these from being too sweet.

Chicken a la Vendemmia

February 25, 2015 by Laura Messersmith in Cooking with the Contessa

Episode: “Dinner in Napa”

The Set-up: The Gartens are on vacation in Napa (lucky!), so Ina is cooking California-style.

The Menu: Israeli Couscous and Tuna Salad, Chicken a la Vendemmia, Raspberry Crumble Bars

0:35 – The Gartens have rented a house in Napa for their vacation and Ina is making them dinner in the garden.

1:16 – Starting in order of importance, Ina is making dessert first: Raspberry Crumble Bars, which apparently were a Barefoot Contessa staple.

2:03 – So far this looks like a really simple recipe – flour, sugar, butter, salt, vanilla.

3:22 – Now raspberry jam is spread over a short bread crust, and this actually reminds me a lot of a recipe I make a lot, but mine involves chocolate chips…

4:37 – Interesting, Ina is using granola to make a short-cut crumble topping. Very tricky…

5:29 – Field trip! We’re going with Ina to visit the Oakville Grocery one of my favorite places in the Napa Valley!

6:14 – It turns out that Oakville Grocery served as a guide back when Ina was first running Barefoot Contessa in the late 70s. Further confirmation that she has great taste.

9:33 - We’re back at the Garten’s home away from home to make Israeli Couscous and Tuna Salad which I’m guessing was inspired by Oakville Grocery’s “main course salads.”

10:02 – The recipe calls for Italian tuna packed in olive oil and I’ve really never worked with that ingredient. Ina says it has lots of flavor, so…?

11:21 – I was on board with everything until the black olives – no thanks, too briny!

12:13 – Ina says that lots of people think couscous is a grain, but that it’s actually a pasta. Cue the More You Know Star…

13:38 – Now we’re checking in with some California chefs to get advice on great salads: Craig Stoll @ Delfina says he keeps it simple and uses the best ingredients like caprese salad with heirloom tomatoes and basil oil.

13:55 - Liz Prueitt @ Tartine contrasts hot and cold, so she serves wilted spinach and gruyere with vinaigrette tossed baby greens.

14:24 – Danny Bowien @ Mission Chinese plays with plating by wrapping a spicy salad with lots of fresh herbs in toasted nori sheets like a sushi handroll. Sort of like a cross between a salad and a spring roll…

15:17 – Back to Ina’s to finish off the Israeli Couscous and Tuna Salad with fresh herbs and a little lemon juice.

19:59 - Time for dinner with Jeffrey is the glorious garden at complete with chilled glasses of rosé. This looks like heaven.

21:30 – Chef Michael Chiarello has invited Ina to come to his home, which just happens to be surrounded by vineyards. Good lord, I had forgotten how gorgeous Napa is.

22:16 – I suppose one of the benefits of being a famous chef living in an agricultural paradise is wandering around your property snipping bunches of grapes, sprigs of rosemary and ripe figs just before it’s time to cook!

23:42 – We’re in the kitchen now getting ready to make Chicken a la Vendemmia, a Southern Italian dish traditionally made during harvest time.

24:25 – Pro Tip: Cook the “presentation side” first while the oil in the pan is fresh and it will cook cleaner.

25:37 – Now I know that Chef Chiarello and I are kindred spirits: he likes cobalt blue Le Crueset pans too!

28:44 – Finishing touches to the chicken as Michael and Ina make a sauce from the chicken drippings grape juice and figs.

29:39 – Dinner time! The chicken looks delicious and according to Ina the flavor is like a sweet and savory taste of fall. Yum!

Final Thoughts:
I love incorporating fruit into savory dishes, so I’m excited to try it with grapes.

The California style of cooking is so distinctively flavorful and simple, definitely bears further investigation….

It’s official: I am dying to get back to Napa!

Lessons Learned:
I wanted to try Chicken a la Vendemmia for a few reason – first: we really liked the flavor of the grapes in the Roasted Sausages and Grapes and second, some of the ingredients reminded me a lot of these Pickled Grapes from the Lee Brothers. All good news as far as I was concerned.

Sautéing the Chicken – This is a technique I’ve been practicing now for the past year and I’m just now starting to feel confident in my ability to get really crispy flavorful skin while maintaining juicy tender meat. A lot of credit goes to pan temperature – getting the pan and then later the olive oil really quite hot is key. Remember that shimmer I mentioned? That comes into play here too.

Reducing the Sauce – Definitely “toast” the rosemary a little before adding the grape juice to help mellow the flavor of the herb and infuse the sauce. After that, reducing the fresh grape juice just takes a little patience and a little stirring, but the resulting concentration of sweet and tart sauce is worth it.

Herbs – Rosemary is pretty straightforward, but fennel spice was a little beyond what we had on hand and frankly I forgot to see if the grocery store here carries it. No matter though, I find that tarragon and fennel have a similar “green” anise flavor, so I made a one-to-one substitution with dried tarragon and the outcome was still delicious.

Small Kitchen Friendly?
Yes, assuming you have a blender or food processor. I used a blender, a small mesh sieve, medium cutting board, chef’s knife, and a medium sauté pan. I also needed tongs, a rubber spatula, and measuring cups and spoons.

The Verdict:
I made Chicken a la Vendemmia for Mike and I earlier this week and Mike, as you might have suspected, will always ask for more spice. If that’s you too, I’d suggest taking the red pepper flake inspiration from the Lee Brother’s pickle recipe and incorporating it at the same time you add the rosemary to the sauté pan. I also added a handful of fresh whole grapes in the last few minutes for some textural interest. This recipe has a lot to recommend it – simple ingredients, big concentrated flavors, and processes that make even the saddest wintertime grape sing.

Spinach Salad Frittata

February 23, 2015 by Laura Messersmith in Cooking

I’m always on the look out for delicious ways to eat more leafy greens and this frittata channels the Classic Spinach Salad while transforming it into a meal. Crispy, salty bacon; rich caramelized onions, and a little tang from a generous dose of whole grain mustard and a dash of red wine vinegar.

Frittatas are one of my all time favorite dishes to cook – as evidence may I present: Exhibit A, Exhibit B and Exhibit C. They’re simple, healthful, and easy; they don’t require extra fussing with a crust (sorry quiche), make great leftovers, and can serve one or two just as easily as a crowd.

This particular edition also has one additional selling point: I’m betting that 99% of the ingredients are already in your fridge, freezer, or pantry right now. Which means you could be eating Spinach Salad Frittata for dinner tonight or breakfast tomorrow without making a trip to the grocery store!

Spinach Salad Frittata (yield: 6 servings)

Ingredients:
3 pieces thick cut bacon
1 1/2 cups (2 medium) thinly sliced onions
10 ounces frozen spinach, defrosted and drained
8 eggs
1/4 cup skim or 2% milk
1 tablespoon whole grain mustard (I like Maille)
1 1/2 teaspoons red wine vinegar
Kosher salt
Black Pepper
Non-stick spray

Instructions:
Pre-heat the oven to 350 degrees F.

Dice the bacon into 1/4 inch strips and cook in a large sauté pan over medium heat until crisp stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes. While the bacon is cooking, slice the onions into 1/8 inch rounds or half moons.

Remove the bacon with a slotted spoon and drain on a paper towel-lined plate. Pour off the bacon drippings, reserving approximately 2 teaspoons in the pan.

Reduce the heat to low. Add the sliced onions to the pan and sauté with 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt and 1/4 teaspoon black pepper for 10-12 minutes until caramelized and softened.

Meanwhile, drain the defrosted spinach pressing out as much of the water as possible. In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs, milk, whole grain mustard and 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt.

When the onions are caramelized add the drained spinach and red wine vinegar to the pan. Fluff the spinach with a fork to combine with the onions.

Prepare a 9 inch pie plate or baking dish with a light coating of non-stick spray. Evenly spread the spinach mixture in the bottom and sprinkle the crisped bacon pieces over the top. Pour the beaten eggs into the dish and bake at 350 degrees F for 30-35 minutes or until the eggs are set.

Cool for a few minutes before serving.

Small Kitchen Friendly?
Yes! I used a large sauté pan, 9 inch pie plate, medium cutting board, and a medium mixing bowl. I also used a dinner plate, chef’s knife, slotted spoon, wire whisk, and rubber spatula in addition to measuring cups and spoons. That’s it!

The Verdict:
I made Spinach Salad Frittata when Mike and I were hosting a guest for a late morning breakfast and we all agreed that the flavor combination worked. The spinach is the star with supporting, but essential appearances from the caramelized onions and bacon (how bad could that be?) The mustard adds a little spice and turns a brunch dish with really simple ingredients into a recipe that could easily transition to dinner.