Farmers Market Tomato and Ricotta Tart | Image: Laura Messersmith — **Farmers Market Tomato and Ricotta Tart** | Image: *Laura Messersmith*

These days I’m pretty much always thinking about cooking – what to make next, what are we in the mood for, what new skill should I attempt, can I make that restaurant dish at home? After a deluge of inspiration - the Heirloom Tomato Tart with Ricotta and Basil from Williams-Sonoma, which was preceded in my Pinterest feed by this beautiful pin of Tomatoes on Garlic Toast. Then, the current issue of Bon Appétit which features a beautiful dish by Yotam Ottolenghi, and finally my brand new copy of the Smitten Kitchen cookbook arrived. I’ll give you one guess on the image gracing the cover: Tomato Scallion Shortcakes with Whipped Goat Cheese (pg. 65).

I decided to take this deluge of brightly colored tomato-based photos as a sign. Perhaps I should get with the program and make something that highlights the beautiful tomatoes in season right at this very moment? Worse culinary ideas have happened and with all those experts to guide me I couldn’t make too big a mess.

I knew I wanted this recipe to be a light and summery tart, featuring tomatoes (and cheese). I referred to both the W-S recipe and to the crust from the Smitten Kitchen Cookbook recipe for Wild Mushroom Tart (pg. 95), but then went on to make something new – partially out of necessity (like when the pantry is missing cornmeal and uncooked polenta is substituted) and partially to satisfy my own taste.

The ‘fanciness’ of the presentation is deceptive, so I hope you won’t be intimidated like I was when I first saw W-S’s tart. But, if you’re a perfectionist or feeling stressed here’s a tip: after the tomatoes are sliced practice layering on the cutting board or a piece of foil before trying to arrange them on the tart. It helped my confidence and reassured me that even if I didn’t make a precise, mathematically balanced kaleidoscope of slices it would still look lovely. And, in the end, I think it did, so there’s that.

I hope you try this soon while the tomatoes in the farmers market (or grocery store) are still amazing – I’d love to see your results!

Farmers Market Tomato and Ricotta Tart (serves 6-8)

Tart Shell Ingredients:

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons all purpose flour
1/4 cup polenta or finely ground cornmeal
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
6 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, diced in small cubes
1 tablespoon room temperature butter
1 large egg

Filling Ingredients:

1 3/4 cups whole milk ricotta cheese
2 1/2 ounces plain goat cheese, softened
1 cup parmesan cheese, finely grated
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/3 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3/4 teaspoon minced fresh thyme
1 pint small-medium heirloom, grape or cherry tomatoes, washed and dried

Directions

In a medium bowl mix together flour, polenta or cornmeal, and salt. Using a pastry cutter or fork work the diced butter into the dry ingredients until the butter is in very small pieces and the mixture is just starting to come together. Add the egg and mix in with a fork until the dough forms a rough ball. The mixture will be fairly dry, resembling shortbread.

Turn the dough into an ungreased 9” tart pan with a removable bottom and using the floured, flat side of a measuring cup press into the bottom and along the sides of the pan in an even layer. Even the edges with a butter knife, or by flattening with the measuring cup.

Place the unbaked tart shell in the freezer for 20-30 minutes until the dough is firm to the touch. While tart shell is chilling, preheat the oven to 375 degrees F.

Remove the shell from freezer and place on a baking sheet. Using a brush or clean hands, spread the room temperature butter on a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover the tart shell with some overhang. Smooth the buttered side of the foil along the bottom of the tart shell and up the sides.

Bake the foil covered tart shell for 10 minutes. Carefully remove the foil from the shell and using a fork, prick the bottom of the shell – this will allow any air to release. Replace the uncovered tart shell in the oven and bake for an additional 5 to 8 minutes until it is lightly golden and crisp. Set tart shell aside on a baking rack and allow to cool completely.

While the tart shell is cooling, assemble the ricotta filling. In a medium bowl, whisk together the ricotta and softened goat cheese until smooth, then stir in the finely grated parmesan, kosher salt, pepper, and fresh thyme. Cut the tomatoes – a serrated knife will work best – into 1/4 to 1/8” slices.

Once the tart shell is completely cooled, spoon the ricotta mixture into the shell and smooth with a spatula or knife. Layer the sliced tomatoes on top of the cheese in any pattern or arrangement you like – this is a moment to be creative! Sprinkle with a few fresh thyme leaves, salt and pepper.

Serve just as it is or with a spoonful of pesto sauce.

Small Kitchen Friendly:

Yes, definitely. I used one medium bowl (used twice and washed between the dough and filling steps), one 9” tart pan, one baking sheet, a pastry cutter, one medium cutting board, one serrated knife, a microplane grater, a rubber spatula, and measuring cups and spoons. A butter knife and a dinner fork round out the tools.

The Verdict:

Mike and I had this on sunny, August Sunday afternoon and were really happy with the taste of these classic flavor combinations presented in a slightly different format. Mike particularly liked the flavor and texture of the polenta/cornmeal crust as a contrast to the creaminess of the cheese filling. And, since I had a little pesto in the freezer from a few weeks ago I defrosted it and we drizzled a little on top – yum. A success I’d say, since we’re already brainstorming variations with other seasonal vegetables. I foresee something involving caramelized onions in our future…

Ina Garten, aka The Barefoot Contessa, and her cookbooks are already a source of guidance for basic recipes but her show serves as my inspiration for more adventurous culinary efforts. So now that I’ve got the essentials down it’s time to branch out. I’ll choose a recipe from an episode of the Barefoot Contessa to try in my tiny New York kitchen. We’ll see if I can keep up with the Contessa!

Crab Cakes and Arugula Salad with Roasted Tomatoes: Image: Laura Messersmith — Crab Cakes and Arugula Salad with Roasted Tomatoes: Image: *Laura Messersmith*

Episode: “Cooking with Tess”

The Set-up: Ina’s friend Antonia is visiting with her teenage daughter, Tess, a budding pastry chef. Ina and Tess will do some baking together after lunch.

The Menu: Crab Cakes, Celery Root Remoulade, Lemon Meringue Tart

0:09 – Ina explains that she and Tess have been baking together since Tess was 5 (she’s 14 now.) Can you imagine having the Barefoot Contessa teach you instead of an Easy Bake Oven? Lucky girl!

2:14 – Ina is making Crab Cakes to welcome Antonia and Tess when they arrive from Cape Cod. I absolutely L-O-V-E crab cakes, so I’ll be paying close attention here…

2:38 – She’s sautéing a fair number of vegetables – red & yellow bell peppers, celery, capers, onion – to add to the crab mixture. I’ve seen crab cakes served with a red bell pepper topping or an aioli but Ina seems to be incorporating these flavors right into the cake itself. At least that’s my theory.

3:02 – Annd, there’s the Old Bay! Little known fact: it’s illegal in Maryland to make anything crab-related without Old Bay. That might not be strictly true, but doesn’t it feel true?

3:16 – While veggies are softening Ina is making Celery Root Remoulade to accompany the Crab Cakes instead of the more traditional cole slaw. Celery root, according to Ina, is a “big, ugly knob,” which is the meanest thing I’ve ever heard her say.

3:22 – Harsh, but fair because this particular item does not look remotely edible. Frankly, it would never occur to me to buy celery root assuming my local store even carries it. I’m trusting you here, Ina, but I’m nervous…

4:13 – Ina is using the food processor to shred the celery root and I just figured out what that disk that came is the box is for. Glad I didn’t get rid of it when we moved!

10:07 – Now to finish up the crab cakes and I’m realizing that this is pretty similar to making meatloaf or meatballs – protein + flavoring veggies + binding eggs & bread crumbs. Shape the mixture, then bake or sauté until cooked. Light bulb moment!

11:19 – Ooh, yay! Ina’s taking a quick field trip to town - hello, Williams-Sonoma - to buy a little present for Tess: a piping bag and a set of decorator’s tips for when they make the Lemon Meringue Tart. FYI it’s this Ateco set.

13:22 – Time to make the lemon curd for the tart. Ina warns us that after adding the lemon juice & zest to the egg, butter, sugar mixture it will look curdled, and it definitely does.

13:49 – Yikes. I would think something had gone horribly, horribly wrong if anything I was baking looked like this, but heating the lemon curd seems to solve the problem and the end result looks nice and smooth.

19:09 – Egg white whisking is underway for the meringue. Note to self: meringue and merengue are two different things.

20:12 – Tess is here!! Big hug from Ina, aww. Now straight to work, no slacking!

20:59 – Practice makes perfect, so before they get after the Lemon Meringue Tart Ina and Tess are doing a little test run on the counter with the new piping bags.

22:38 – The moment of truth: time to pipe the meringue tart. Ina starts them off with a shell pattern on the outer circle and Tess fills in the middle. I have no idea how difficult it is to use a piping bag, but Tess seems to do quite well. Good teacher I bet…

26:49 – Their next task is to make and sauté the crab cakes and then dinner is served. Antonia arrives just as they’re finishing – excellent timing on her part.

28:57 – Now for dessert! Tess reveals their picture perfect lemon meringue tart. Gorgeous. The edges of the meringue are lightly browned and the curd looks super lemony and refreshing.

29:45 – Ina gives Tess her W-S piping bags and decorator tips with a promise that they’ll bake together for a long time to come. Now that’s what I’d call an awesome present.

Final Thoughts:
I’ve never made anything involving egg whites – but that Lemon Meringue Tart might be just the thing to motivate me…

I’m still proud of myself for realizing that a crab cake is essentially a seafood meatball. No need to be intimidated!

Kinda jealous of Tess’s baking lessons with Ina – living vicariously!

Lessons Learned: When I see Crab Cakes on the menu I always want to order them, so I knew this was the dish I wanted to try. I learned a few things while making crab cakes for the first time – 1. Dice the vegetables quite small so that they incorporate evenly into the crab. 2. The spicyness was a little aggressive for me, so I backed off on the Tabasco; your mileage may vary. 3. Keep an eye on the amount of breadcrumbs. I followed the measurements in the recipe, but I think another ¼ cup would have helped to keep the crab cake mixture together more firmly. Mine were falling apart a little bit which made them tricky to sauté. More practice will help me identify when I need to adjust a little for the best outcome.

This is definitely a small kitchen friendly recipe – one sauté pan (wash while the mixture is chilling), one large bowl, a sheet pan to keep the finished cakes warm, a cutting board and a few basic kitchen tools (spatulas, chef’s knife) are all you need.

The Verdict:

Mike and I both really loved the flavors in the recipe and the way this dinner came together. An arugula salad – this time with roasted grape tomatoes for extra color and bright flavor – is my go-to when I’m not sure what else to serve, and as with other rich dishes I think it’s a nice compliment to the sweetness of the crab. Now that I have a baseline I’m excited to practice my new crab cake making skills!