Croque Monsieur a la Aquitaine

September 09, 2014 by Laura Messersmith in Cooking

A few years ago when Mike and I were back in Boston I tried a French bistro classic for the first time. We had the afternoon to ourselves while we waited for our friends to finish their work days and decided a leisurely lunch at Aquitaine in the South End was the best way to pass the time. That lunch stands out in my memory for the relaxed pace of the day and the deliciousness of the food – beautifully smooth tomato bisque, a bright vinegary salad, and the star: a crisp, buttery Croque Monsieur.

Since then I’ve ordered the CM on other occasions and discovered - somewhat to my disappointment - that what I believed to be the ‘traditional’ style was actually Aquitaine’s own method. Research on the semi-reliable internet tells me that Aquitaine dips their CMs in a little egg and then cooks the sandwiches underneath a hot brick for an crisp exterior and a slightly flattened sandwich. Instead of cheese melted over the top; all the delicious Gruyere and its accompanying ham are contained in the crunchy bread for something more akin to a panini by way of a Monte Cristo sandwich. Photo evidence here.

After some experimenting (blame my need for a really good, crunchy bread for the lateness of this post) I give you my tribute to the flavors and textures I remember from that afternoon when I learned that grilled cheese could be grown-up and elegant.

I love serving this toasty sandwich with an extra schmere of whole grain mustard and a bunch of cool green grapes or a small pile of salad dressed with the same vinaigrette that goes in the spread. Maybe a glass of sauvignon blanc? Instant bistro.

Croque Monsieur a la Aquitaine (serves 4)

4 teaspoons whole grain mustard, like Maille Old Style
4 teaspoons creamy vinaigrette (see recipe below)
1/2 pound gruyere cheese, finely grated
4 thin slices Virginia ham
8 slices country bread, about 1/3" thick
4 tablespoons softened butter

In a small bowl, stir together the whole grain mustard and the creamy vinaigrette (recipe below) until well mixed. Spread one side the bread with a thin layer (about 1/2 teaspoon) of the mustard mixture and the other side with a thin layer of the softened butter.

Arrange the bread on a plate, buttered sides down. Divide half the grated gruyere among four slices of bread and top the cheese with a piece of Virginia ham. Sprinkle the other half of the gruyere over the ham - again, dividing equally among the sandwiches - and top with the remaining slices of bread, mustard-side in.

Meanwhile, heat a large cast iron skillet over medium-high heat. Press the sandwiches down gently to keep the halves together and place in the hot skillet.

Cook 3-4 minutes on each side or until golden brown. Resist the urge to crowd the pan. Repeat the procedure with remaining sandwiches keeping the first batch warm in a 200 degree oven.

Cut in half with a serrated knife and serve hot.

Creamy Vinaigrette (adapted from Ina Garten)

Ingredients:

2 tablespoons cider vinegar
2 tablespoons Champagne vinegar
Pinch sugar
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 large egg yolk
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Instructions:

In the bowl of a food processor fitted with a steel blade combine the vinegars, sugar, salt, pepper, and egg yolk and blend for 1 minute. With the motor running, slowly pour the olive oil through the feed tube until the vinaigrette is thickened. Season, to taste. The dressing will last in the refrigerator for 2-3 weeks, so wash out an old jam jar and save it!

Small Kitchen Friendly?

Oui. I used a 4 cup food processor, 10” cast iron skillet, microplane grater, liquid measuring cup and measuring spoons, and a small bowl along with a medium sized cutting board and serrated knife. A metal spatula will make life easy for turning and pressing the sandwiches.

The Verdict

The extra effort to get the bread crunchy and toasted was so worth it. The gruyere is nutty and rich, while the ham adds a little bulk and saltiness – add in the tang of the vinaigrette & mustard mix and you’re in business. This is definitely a “grilled cheese” that I’d serve to guests for a casual lunch and it’s perfect a day when Mike and I need a little spoiling and only fancy sandwiches will do.

Chicken Salad Veronique

May 21, 2014 by Laura Messersmith in Cooking with the Contessa

Ina Garten, aka The Barefoot Contessa, and her cookbooks are already a source of guidance for basic recipes but her show serves as my inspiration for more adventurous culinary efforts. I’ll follow along with an episode of the Barefoot Contessa and choose a recipe to try in my tiny New York kitchen. We’ll see if I can keep up with the Contessa!

Episode: “Flavors and Flowers”

The Set-up: Bridgehampton Florist is celebrating 20 years in business and somehow they managed to get Ina Garten to cater the party….

The Menu: Pepper & Gorgonzola Bruschetta, Chicken Salad Veronique, Herb Potato Salad, Beatty’s Chocolate Cake

Chicken Salad Veronique | Image: Laura Messersmith — **Chicken Salad Veronique** | Image: *Laura Messersmith*

0:49 – Ina kicks off the episode with Chicken Salad Veronique – “like chicken salad, but elevated to party food” because it involves fresh herbs and grapes.

1:17 – If I were developing a Barefoot Contessa drinking game (we’d sip kir royales, obviously) I’d have to nominate “roast with salt, pepper and olive oil” to the list of occasions to DRINK! But, I digress…

2:04 – On to the sauce! Chicken Salad Veronique involves a tarragon sauce. Ina feels that it’s an under-used herb (must have a weak lobbyist in Congress) and I tend to agree. More tarragon!

3:58 – The chicken salad is done and we get a quick peek at Michael finishing up for the day at Bridgehampton Florist. Let the party prep begin!

5:01 – Back at Ina’s to make Herb Potato Salad with a French-style vinaigrette dressing, rather than “drenched mayonnaise.” I’m with Ina on this one – not so much a fan of mayo, but in Austria we had something like the dish she’s describing and it was delicious. Color me intrigued.

5:34 – Through a veil of steam Ina gives us Pro Tip #1: for perfectly cooked potatoes cover the colander with a kitchen towel after draining and allow the steam to absorb into the potatoes for a few minutes.

6:01 – Next, Ina whisks up the vinaigrette – lemon juice, garlic, Dijon mustard, salt and pepper, and olive oil. I don’t know why I so rarely make my own dressing – it really is pretty simple.

9:14 – Here’s an interesting step and Pro Tip #2: a warm potato (or piece of chicken) will absorb the flavors of a sauce better than a cold one. So, while the sliced potatoes are still warm, and before adding the vinaigrette, Ina tosses them with a few tablespoons of white wine and chicken stock. Brilliant.

10:03 –I see that the Tarragon Lobby has gotten to Ina. Once again it’s featured in the Herb Potato Salad - which Ina characterizes as a “subtle herb.” You know, for the discerning palate.

11:16 – Over to Bridgehampton Florist again and Ina was right: the floral arrangement does feature orange tulips! Michael is so fabulous and appears to have matched his outfit to the flowers – he’s sporting a vibrant tangerine mini-check button down.

11:44 – Next, a surprise: Beatty’s Chocolate Cake from Michael’s grandmother’s recipe. I would like everyone reading to know that you are welcome to surprise me with chocolate cake any time – any time at all!

12:06 – Hahahahahaha. I love Ina’s expression as the cocoa powder she’s sifting rises up in a cloud. All: “How ridiculous is it that I’m talking to you through a chocolate haze?”

13:51 – Oooh, a secret ingredient: hot brewed coffee. We already know that coffee and vanilla are two of Ina’s favorite chocolate-boosting ingredients, but why hot coffee?

14:14 – I did some Googling and found several potential reasons for the coffee to be hot: activation of baking soda for a lighter cake crumb, releasing more chocolate flavor (heat + ingredient = heighted aroma), and keeping thick ingredients (butter, oils, molasses, etc.) thinner and more easily mixed. In this case I’m guessing either #1 or #2 is the reason.

18:11 – Beatty’s Chocolate Cake is out of the oven, so it’s time for butter cream frosting. You can tell this is an old fashioned cake, because Beatty is not shy about the butter use – 2 sticks for frosting alone!

19:17 – Pro Tip #3: to turn a cake out of a pan easily – butter the sides and line the bottom with parchment paper (NOT waxed paper) – then when the cake is baked, run a knife around the edge of the pan and rap the bottom on a hard surface.

20:21 – OMG, that frosting looks so good. I would love to be in the kitchen with Ina for a multitude of reasons, but right now it would be to lick the bowl. #truefacts

21:42 – We get a little Frosting Application 101 and I’m willing to bet it’s harder than she makes it look. I can’t recall ever making a layer cake, but I think it’s a baking hurdle I’ll have to attempt sooner or later…

22:37 – A glimpse of Michael’s finishing touches (the orange tulips are joined by hot pink roses) and then it’s back to Ina’s for a little Pepper and Gorgonzola Bruschetta

27:23 – I’ve made something similar to this recipe, but instead of sautéing my own peppers I totally cheated and used roasted red peppers out of a jar…

28:32 – Okay, so Ina’s bruschetta look way better – hers have capers and she melted the gorgonzola. I have so much to learn!

29:04 – Over to Bridgehampton Florist for the party where all the assembled guests are enjoying the champagne and bruschetta.

29:59 – We close out with a toast from Ina “to 20 years of flowers and chocolate cake, and orange tulips!”

Final Thoughts:

I’m excited to try the Herbed Potato Salad - if it’s anything like the version we had in Vienna I’m in trouble!

If I’ve learned anything from this show and Pinterest it’s that I need to add layer cakes to my baking repertoire.

A flower shop seems like a really cool place to have a party – talk about a beautiful setting!

Lessons Learned:

I actually have made Chicken Salad Veronique before on a number of occasions, the most memorable of which was the first meal I ever cooked for Mike. That’s how good this recipe is – you can trust it with an early dating relationship – and it’s virtually no stress to make.

Ina recommends roasting the chicken, which really does improve the flavor quite a bit, but if you had some boneless skinless chicken breasts you wanted to use poaching them in chicken broth works well and gives more flavor than just plain water. The recipe calls for green grapes, but I think they’re a little tart, so I switched to red grapes, which I think are a little sweeter. This recipe is also great to size up for more people, or divide in half if it’s just for two, although who doesn’t want a few leftovers when it’s something delicious like Chicken Salad Veronique?

Small Kitchen Friendly?

Definitely. I used one sheet pan to roast the chicken, one medium sized plastic cutting board (produce first, then chicken), and a large bowl for mixing the salad. Those four items, plus a chef’s knife and a few basic kitchen tools like measuring cups and spoons and a large mixing spoon, are all you need.

The Verdict:

Chicken Salad Veronique feels more special than standard chicken salad when you have guests, but is definitely easy enough for “everyday.” We had some friends coming for lunch over the weekend, and in accordance with Ina’s Rules for Entertaining; it’s a dish can easily be made in advance. (I did mine the night before so it was nice and cool the next afternoon.) It’s fresh and summery - perfect in a sandwich or over salad greens. Seconds were had by all and Chicken Salad Veronique retains its place on the go-to list.

Butternut Squash Risotto

April 23, 2014 by Laura Messersmith in Cooking with the Contessa

Ina Garten, aka The Barefoot Contessa, and her cookbooks are already a source of guidance for basic recipes but her show serves as my inspiration for more adventurous culinary efforts. I’ll follow along with an episode of the Barefoot Contessa, then choose a recipe to try in my tiny New York kitchen. We’ll see if I can keep up with the Contessa!

Butternut Squash Risotto  | Image: Laura Messersmith — **Butternut Squash Risotto** | Image: *Laura Messersmith*

Episode: “Weekend Lunch”

The Set-up: Ina and Jeffrey are booked solid with two weekend lunches. Ina’s solution: serve menus of easy, satisfying dishes to their friends.

The Menu: Warm Duck Salad, Blueberry Crumb Cake, Butternut Squash Risotto, Chocolate Sorbet

0:52 – Ina starts us off by declaring her love for entertaining at lunchtime (apparently well known among the Gartens’ friends.) I’m pretty confident that if Ina told people to show up at 4 am for dinner she’d still have plenty of takers.

1:17 – First up, the Blueberry Crumb Cake for Saturday’s lunch. Pro Tip #1: prepare the cake pan by rubbing a butter wrapper around the inside and dusting with a little flour. Tap the excess flour out for a light coating.

2:26 – Pro Tip #2: room temperature butter and eggs will result in a light, fluffy cake batter. It blew my mind when I figured out that the temperature of ingredients affects the outcome. But do I ever manage to take the butter out the night before? No.

3:39 – Mmm, this cake has blueberries, vanilla, and lemon zest in the batter; plus a sugar and spice crumb streusel.

4:44 – Ina is not playing - one stick of butter for the streusel alone. Good thing they’re having salad as the main course!

6:01 – Now a little field trip to Iacono Farm to buy the key ingredient for the Warm Duck Salad. Ina’s clearly a regular and the man tending the farm stand fixes her up with two picture-perfect duck breasts post haste.

9:05 – Back in the kitchen to make the salad and Ina explains that for lunch dishes she tries to balance lightness with substance. I presume this is to prevent the need for either an afternoon nap or an afternoon snack, neither of which I personally have a problem with…

10:14 – While the duck roasts she makes a vinaigrette (olive oil, sherry vinegar, chopped shallots, and orange zest) and says that duck has a fuller flavor and can stand up to a stronger dressing. The first time I can recall eating duck was during tapas at Dali in Cambridge, MA. The Pato Braseado (duckling with berry sauce) is so good I now order one just for me. Selfish? Yes. Necessary? Also yes.

10:24 – The duck comes out of the oven and Ina offers Pro Tip #3: cover the sheet pan with foil and allow the duck to rest for 10-15 minutes to allow the juices to return to the meat.

11:07 – Ina is assembling the salad and decides to use a blend of mache, endive, a supremed orange, some fresh raspberries, and toasted pecans. I definitely approve of fruit and nuts in salad – yum.

13:25 – The last step is to remove the skin from the duck, slice it into long strips on the bias, and place them on the platter. This is a gorgeous looking dish - the colors of the orange segments, berries and pink duck breast against the salad greens really pop.

14:25 – A final sprinkling of powdered sugar over the Blueberry Crumb Cake and it’s time for Ina and Jeffrey’s friends to arrive. Someone named Maureen and a second un-named woman? Anyway…

14:45 – Jeffrey continues to win points as the most complimentary husband in history - well done Mr. Garten - and everyone tucks in to their salad and crumb cake.

19:11 – It’s Sunday now and Ina is preparing for Weekend Lunch 2: Electric Boogaloo. She says “weekends are about fun and relaxing, so weekend entertaining should be too.” Truer words, my friend. There is nothing relaxing about killing yourself to make a fancy meal.

20:15 – Once again she’s starting her prep with dessert: Chocolate Sorbet and adds the twin chocolate flavor boosters: cinnamon and coffee. After all the ingredients are combined over low heat she pours the mixture into a plastic container to chill in the refrigerator. In her intro to this part of the show she says she has an hour and a half until her guests arrive, so I’m a little unclear how sorbet will set in that amount of time, but I guess we’ll see!

22:20 – On to the Butternut Squash Risotto. Ina is roasting the squash with the holy trinity of the oven: olive oil, kosher salt, and black pepper. This is how I prepare 50% of the vegetables I make. The other 50% are steamed and tossed with butter, salt, and black pepper. So, basically the exact same seasonings.

23:39 – Aha! The Secret of the Chocolate Sorbet (which sounds like something Nancy Drew should investigate) has been revealed: an ice cream maker. Ina says it will take about 30 minutes. Mystery solved. Great work, Nancy.

25:18 – Back to the risotto – pancetta, shallots, and butter are sautéed in the most giant palm green Le Crueset french oven I’ve ever seen – followed by the Arborio rice. Then two ladles of hot chicken stock and some saffron threads.

26:56 – Some TV magic seems to take place at this point. We see very little ladling and stirring, but all of a sudden the risotto is done and it’s time to fold in the butternut squash and a finishing cup of grated parmesan.

27:12 – Ina, you know I adore you, but as a risotto-newbie I would have loved a little more handholding at this stage… Next time maybe?

28:27 – The risotto and sorbet are done, Frank and Stephen have arrived, and everyone is gathered around the lunch table again.

29:56 – They wrap up with meal with Jeffrey, possibly still drumming up boat-purchase brownie points, rhapsodizing about how he loves everything about this meal “the risotto, the sorbet…” and they all laugh as Ina prompts him “you love me…” Aww. They’re too much.

Final Thoughts:

Ina is totally right about lunchtime entertaining – make 2 courses and you’re good to go!

The concept of balance – both within a dish, but also across courses – is so important. I love that Ina pairs a lighter dish with a richer one.

I might need an entire episode devoted to risotto – I suspect this is a more subtle cooking process than Ina makes it seem.

Lessons Learned: I took a page from Ina’s book and made the Butternut Squash Risotto when we had friends coming for dinner. Now that I’ve tried making it I see why risotto has such a reputation among professional chefs (see the Top Chef risotto curse) and home cooks alike. The techniques aren’t necessarily difficult in this recipe - dice and roast squash, mince shallots, ladle hot chicken stock, stir - but producing a perfectly cooked risotto is a definitely little tricky. The Kitchn has some great photos and descriptions of what the ideal risotto should look and taste like.

This was my first attempt and while the end product turned out really flavorful and delicious, the texture wasn’t quite right. Risotto should be ‘al dente’ and mine was too soft and a little too sticky rather than creamy - like rice pudding. What I need to diagnose the problem is more experience, but if I had to guess I’d say that either I added the stock too slowly and let the previous ladle-full absorb too completely, or that I didn’t actually need all 6 cups of stock. This is one where practice will be the key to nailing that elusive perfect dish.

Butternut Squash Risotto is fairly small kitchen friendly – I used one large french oven, a medium sauce pan (for the warm chicken stock), a sheet pan, one cutting board, and some basic kitchen tools like a ladle, chef’s knife, and measuring cups.

The Verdict: The flavors in this recipe are amazing – rich, complex, and satisfying. I understand why Ina uses this as a ‘stand alone’ entrée – a little green salad and you really don’t need anything else. Even though I didn’t get the texture on the first attempt all four of us really liked how the Butternut Squash Risotto tasted and I’m excited to try this one again and again until I get it just right.