Scouting: Dubrovnik, Croatia

Dubrovnik, Croatia | Image: Laura Messersmith

When Mike was in the very earliest days of his Navy career he spent a summer on a submarine in the Mediterranean. The sub stopped in several ports during their deployment including cities in Portugal, Italy, Morocco, and Gibraltar – coincidentally all places I’d love to travel (not via submarine, though, thanks.) Even with all that stiff competition Dubrovnik, Croatia was still the place that stood out in his mind, and that he always wanted to visit again. Now that I’ve seen it for myself I can understand why it captured his imagination.

Dubrovnik is BREATHTAKING.

That's right, I busted out the italic, bold, all caps, so you know I'm serious. The city is built on steep rocky ground that slopes toward the deep blue Adriatic Sea. The landscape is dotted with spiky cypress trees, olive bushes, and purple irises. It’s gorgeous in a way that’s hard to believe or describe. Really you just have to go and see it for yourself because pictures alone don't do it justice.

We were lucky enough to visit in early April when the orange trees were blooming and before the cruise ships and tourists of the high season descended in earnest. Many of the Croatian people we met complimented us on our timing. So, I pass that tip along to you: April, September, October are the name of the game if you’re looking for a little breathing room.

Dubrovnik, Croatia | Image: Laura Messersmith

We were there for five days and I could have made good use of at least five more. It’s definitely a place I could return to happily. Here’s what we did:

Stay:

Vacation Rental by Owner (VRBO) I continue to be a huge fan of VRBO for finding unique places to stay. Case in point: we found an efficiency apartment owned by a Croatian family in Old City Dubrovnik. Simply outfitted with all the essentials (including WiFi - woot!) – the true selling point was the terrace garden partially bounded by the city walls. Way more personality than a hotel, and situated in an unforgettable location.

The Wall, Old Town Dubrovnik | Images: Laura Messersmith

See:

Old Town Dubrovnik This ancient city is beautiful and what’s even more amazing is that people continue to live and work within the walls in ways that are both super modern (the aforementioned WiFi) and old-school. We attempted to 'live' there too and went to the post office, did a spot of grocery shopping, and perused the daily green market. Definitely plan to spend a day winding your way up and down through the narrow streets and stairways.

The Wall In my mind this is a totally separate activity from the rest of Old Town. We went up near the Pile Gate (tickets were 100 kuna, or $20 USD) and from that vantage point the views of the city, mountains, and sea are spectacular. It took us almost 3 hours to walk/climb the 3km because I couldn’t stop taking pictures – “shutterbugging” was Mike’s term – so be prepared…

Buza Bar is the stuff of legend for a reason. It’s an open-air bar that clings to the rocks outside the wall (cliff jumping optional) and an amazing spot to soak in even more sea views and simultaneously wet your whistle. I recommend Ouzjsko Limon, aka the shandy of Croatia. Finding it is half the adventure, so I’ll just give you a hint: walk along the sea-side edge of the old city wall and look for the ‘cold drinks’ sign that points the way.

The Streets of Old Town Dubrovnik & "Cold Drinks" I Images: Laura Messersmith

Pelješac Peninsula Mike and I like cities, but we also love to see the countryside when we travel, especially if it’s wine country. The Pelješac Peninsula is an easy day trip from Dubrovnik and a offers a great opportunity to sample some Croatian wines, or stop in the town of Ston which produces sea salt the old-fashioned way (shallow sea water fields + sun) and is the source of Croatia’s oysters.

Korčula is an island off the coast of the Pelješac Peninsula and contains what appears to be a miniature version of Old Town Dubrovnik – fortified walls, Cathedral and all. The short boat trip from the mainland is an excellent excuse to be out on the crystal clear water.

Mostar (Bosnia) So, this isn’t actually in Croatia, but day trips are available through several Dubrovnik tour companies. Mostar is also ancient city, but unlike Dubrovnik it was formerly part of the Ottoman Empire and that influence can be felt in the architecture, traditional clothing, and decorative crafts. It's probably best known for the bridge that spans the river and the long tradition of brave people diving from the center span. (I was not one of them.) We didn’t see anyone attempt it while we were there, but word on the street says $100 euro will convince one of the young men lingering at the center to show the crowd how it’s done.

Clockwise from top Right: Korčula, Pelješac Winery, Ston, Dried Fruits | Images: Laura Messersmith

Mostar, Bosnia | Image: Laura Messersmith

Dine:

Gverović-Orsan (Zaton Mali, Dubrovnik) came recommended by a friend who dined there several years ago and still remembered the experience, which seems to be the unofficial motto of Dubrovnik. The food is excellent – fresh and prepared with a light touch that honors the ingredients – and the waterfront setting in a rustic stone boathouse on a small inlet is lovely. The standouts in a fantastic menu: gnocchi with lobster, wood fired scorpion fish, and crepes with ground almonds and Grand Marnier sauce. We wanted to eat here every night of our trip. 

Nautika (Dubrovnik) specializes in modern Mediterranean dishes made with locally sourced ingredients. The food is very good and the service is excellent, but it’s the setting that really makes Nautika memorable. The restaurant terrace overlooks the dramatically lit walls of Old Town and has views of the Adriatic. Very romantic and perfect for a special dinner.

Oliva Pizzeria (Old Town Dubrovnik) I probably should be embarrassed to admit it, but after almost a week away from home we were in the mood for something familiar, like a piece of pizza. Plain cheese is my yardstick and Oliva’s compared very favorably to our neighborhood “by-the-slice” joint. Croatia is just across the Adriatic Sea from Italy, so culinary crosspollination is inevitable and Italian food is generally a safe bet when you're tired of ćevapi.

Dubrovnik, Croatia | Image: Laura Messersmith

Parmesan Chicken

Ina Garten, aka The Barefoot Contessa, and her cookbooks are already a source of guidance for basic recipes but her show serves as my inspiration for more adventurous culinary efforts.  I’ll follow along with an episode of the Barefoot Contessa, then choose a recipe to try in my tiny New York kitchen. We’ll see if I can keep up with the Contessa!

Parmesan Chicken with Arugula and Roasted Tomatoes | Image: Laura Messersmith

Episode: “Mystery Guest”

The Set-up: The Garten’s friend, Susan Stroman, is coming for dinner and bringing a mystery guest, so Ina is planning a menu sure to please anyone.

The Menu: Blinis with Smoked Salmon & Crème Fraiche, Cream of Wild Mushroom Soup, Parmesan Chicken, and Fresh Pears with Stilton

0:49 – We begin with Ina declaring that the First Rule of Entertaining is: get as much done as possible before the guests arrive. Let’s vote: unintentional Fight Club reference, or not? I’m inclined to say yes.

1:17 – She’s making Cream of Wild Mushroom Soup using a combination of Portobello, cremini, and Shitake mushrooms which she can prepare now and reheat later, hence rule #1.

2:25 – She starts by sautéing the mushroom stems, and some vegetables to make stock for the mushroom soup. Home Ec. Tip #1: Ina suggests using any random, mildly flavored vegetables you might have (ie. that one-off stalk of celery or last remaining carrot.)

3:38 – While the stock simmers we go into the sitting room for a little table setting lesson and some suggestions for easy entertaining.

4:14 – Entertaining Tip #1: Small, round tables help people connect. Entertaining Tip #2: Food looks best on simple white plates. Let the linens and the flowers bring in color. Entertaining Tip #3: Pre-set the dessert (in this case fresh pears and Stilton with a glass of Port) so you don’t have to leave the table.

4:34 – Ina’s suggestions make so much sense and she’s right; I am always tempted by those colorful plates, but so far I’ve managed to resist and now I feel pretty proud of my restraint.

5:21 – Okay, back to the Mushroom Soup. Ina has a French oven to sauté leeks and the diced mushroom caps. She adds a little flour to the pot to thicken the butter, then strains the vegetable pieces out of the stock and adds the liquid. A few fresh herbs and we’re done!

5:28 – I assumed because this was “Cream of…” that that there would surely be pureeing involved, but that doesn’t seem to be the case, so good news there for folks like me who prefer cooking to be as fuss-free as possible.

10:06 – Ina says the Second Rule of Entertaining is: only make two things (buy, or assemble the rest), but for the Mystery Guest she’s breaking that rule and making Blinis with Smoked Salmon and Crème Fraiche for appetizers. Rule #1 stands though; she’s making them in advance.

10:42 – The first step is clarified butter. Pro Tip #1: the milk solids in butter are what make butter burn; by skimming them off the top of the melted butter it’s less likely that the blinis will burn. This is the Pro Tip for the ages! I am always worried about burning the butter (and anything else in it.)

11:13 – Okay, now to make the batter for the blinis which are made with 1 part buckwheat flour, 2 parts white flour. Ina says these are “really like Sunday morning pancakes” and she’s right – they bubble up a little on the top and look exactly like little silver dollar pancakes.

13:17 – Once the blinis are done Ina drains them on paper towels and then fancies up with a savory topping of smoked salmon, a little dab of crème fraiche and a sprig of dill. Yum. I’ll bet this is pretty close to a bagel with lox and cream cheese.

14:22 – Apps are done, now for a quick trip to Cavaniola’s cheese shop where Ina asks for a recommendation to go with pears and port, even though she told us earlier that she was going to serve Stilton.

14:38 – For some reason she pretends like she might get something else, even going so far as to taste a piece of Five Year Old Gouda. I assume this is so we can see more of the cheese shop, which does look very nice, but maybe Ina just likes a bit of ‘cat and mouse’ when it comes to cheese buying? Pun somewhat (okay totally) intended.

15:01 – End result: Ina leaves the shop with a giant wedge of the “classic” Stilton. Surprise!

19:41 – We’re back at Ina’s now and she’s making Parmesan Chicken as the main course. She says she’s made a ton of chicken this way, and since she doesn’t know what the Mystery Guest likes she wants to go with something safe, which is a fair point.

20:08 – The process is the same as most breaded & fried chicken – seasoned flour, beaten eggs, and seasoned bread crumbs with ground parmesan cheese mixed in – but the chicken is pounded thinly so that it cooks quickly.

21:46 – Ina finishes up the frying and puts the chicken in a low oven to keep warm while she pops some champagne and pumps Susan for hints about the Mystery Guest.

23:22 – In between blurred shots of the guest arriving we get the following clues: does Broadway and films, lives in the Hamptons. This really didn't narrow it down for me.

24:09 – The doorbell rings, Ina answers and exclaims “It’s Mel!” As in Brooks, of Spaceballs, The Producers, and Blazing Saddles fame among 1,000 other hilarious things. No big deal.

24:22 – They seem to already know each other and Mel is greeted with a big hug. It takes him approximately 4 seconds to go from hopeful inquiry about a free meal, to questions about dessert, to bellowing a Brooksian “I LOVE YOUUU!!” as he follows her into the house.

27:16 – After their Blinis with Smoked Salmon & Crème Fraiche (Mel steals one out of Ina’s hand eliciting peals of laughter) they sit down to dinner. Mel is in full performance mode escalating his praise of the Cream of Wild Mushroom Soup from polite compliment to a silverware banging demand: “I want more soup! I want more soup!”

28:02 – Ina escapes to the kitchen to whip up lemon vinaigrette for the salad she’s pairing with the Parmesan Chicken. She jokes that it’s a good thing she did so much in advance because she “can’t leave that crowd alone too long.” I believe it – that Mel is an Instigator with a capital I.

29:52 – Dinner continues along with more jokes from Mel – after dessert is served he pulls out a $100 bill from his wallet and insists he will “pay for this meal! This is the best meal I’ve had in years!” The Gartens and Co. fade to black with a toast from Ina “to the Mystery Guest!”

Final Thoughts:

I love it when Ina tells us not only how to cook something, but also how to make sure a dinner party goes smoothly too. So many good suggestions and tips in this episode.

The more I watch the Barefoot Contessa, the more I see how with just a small change (buckwheat flour + salmon vs. buttermilk flour + strawberries) a familiar dish like pancakes becomes something totally different.

Ina looked like she was going to fall out of her chair laughing at various points – I’m guessing Mel Brooks x Champagne = hilarity for all.

Parmesan Chicken with Arugula and Roasted Tomatoes | Image: Laura Messersmith

Lessons Learned: Normally I’m not really into cooking for just myself, but Parmesan Chicken is really easy to portion for a solo dinner. I just added a little arugula salad and some Roasted Cherry Tomatoes and dinner was done! As always, Ina is so spot on with her cooking time, 3-4 minutes per side and a few minutes in the oven resulted in perfectly cooked chicken. 

One thing I did have keep an eye on is the seasoning. I’m not sure I’ve ever said this about an Ina Garten recipe before (normally I think her ratios are perfect), but I thought the chicken was a touch bland. Maybe it was my breadcrumbs, or a particularly mild piece of Parmesan? In any case, next time I will probably lightly salt & pepper the chicken before I dredge through it the flour just to make sure.

This recipe is moderately small kitchen friendly. It only uses one large sauté pan, a sheet pan and basic kitchen tools, like measuring cups and a spatula. However, it does require enough counter space for three dredging bowls and a food processor (or at least a box grater for the Parmesan cheese). It also assumes that you have a wooden rolling pin or meat mallet for flattening the chicken.

If your kitchen tools don’t run to rolling pins and meat mallets, but you still want to make Parmesan Chicken I’d try to buy a thinly sliced chicken cutlet as a close substitute for flattened chicken breast.

The Verdict: We’re recently back from Vienna, Austria and I have schnitzel on the brain, so this recipe hit the spot with chicken standing in for pork. I really liked the combination of the crispy chicken with roasted tomatoes and arugula – sort of a lighter, deconstructed version of classic chicken parm. I think this could be a easy weeknight go-to recipe, and I definitely want to make this again for Mike to see if I can fix my seasoning issue.

F.O.M.O.*

Design & Image: Laura Messersmith

Lately I've been thinking a lot about time. Days, hours, and minutes and how all of these small bits of time add up to weeks, months, and years which seem to pass faster and faster as I get older. Remember how summer vacation in elementary school used to feel like an endless, golden stretch of days? More than 2 months to do nothing but swim, have sleepovers, and ride bikes! And it all crept by at a deliciously glacial pace. Bliss. 

Compare that to when I checked the mail last week and found our apartment lease renewal notice among the catalogs and credit card offers. I could hardly believe we were coming up on a year in New York. Yes, the boxes are unpacked and we do have pictures on the walls, but it still feels like we just moved in! Where did the time go?

I suppose what really got me thinking about time were the moments on our trip to Austria & Croatia, and more recently to Santa Barbara county, when I felt the simultaneous push-pull of exploration vs. relaxation. I wanted my feet to cover every square inch, to see it all and not 'waste' a second of our precious time. But, I also wanted to sit quietly, preferably with a cool glass of white or rosé in hand, and just feel the peace and beauty of our surroundings roll over me.

That conflict spills over into regular, real, non- vacation life too. There are so many things I want to learn, places I want to go, and experiences I want to have. I've talked before about some of my goals for 2014 and my desire to allow myself time to do ‘nothing’ like reading books. I suppose I’m hoping that by recording my efforts here that I’ll be a little more aware of when I need to let go and enjoy the relaxation moments or be more focused in the exploration times.

Which brings us to today, this afternoon is gorgeous and sunny – but I’ve been sitting in the park pecking away on my phone for the last hour writing this post. Time to hold myself to this little burst of insight. Time to bask, finish The Fault in Our Stars (excellent, by the way), and soak it all in.

*Fear of Missing Out

Scouting: Vienna & Salzburg, Austria

St. Gilgen and Lake Wolfgang, Austria | Image: Laura Messersmith

Mike and I decided to visit Austria in a somewhat roundabout way (no offense, I hope). We knew we wanted to go to Croatia – that was a definite – but there was a catch. Direct flights from the U.S. to Dubrovnik aren’t available and we would have to stop somewhere before continuing on to southern Croatia.

We chose Vienna as the lucky winner based on three factors: it is only about a 2 hour flight from Dubrovnik, neither of us had ever been there, and we heard very good things about the city. Decision made.

I’m here to tell you that the rumors are true. Vienna is a beautiful, stately city, as one would expect of the seat of the Habsburg Empire for hundreds of years. The elegant, formal touches of the royal court are everywhere in the architecture and the number of palaces, art collections, and cathedrals you can visit is amazing for a relatively small city. Salzburg is incredibly charming and the surrounding mountains and lakes are absolutely gorgeous. See the photo above - it doesn't look real, does it?

Vienna State Opera House | Image: Laura Messersmith

Since we only had a few days in Vienna and just one in Salzburg we needed to focus, so here’s what we did...

Stay:

Hotel Bristol Vienna is an old-school hotel in the best sense of the word. Multi-colored crystal chandeliers, brass fittings, and excellent service helped me channel my inner Habsburg duchess. Extra bonus: our room overlooked the Vienna State Opera House and with the windows open we could hear the strains of Madame Butterfly and Swan Lake. Lovely.

Vienna, Austria | Images: Laura Messersmith

See:

Albertina is a museum housed in a former palace and displays Duke Albert of Saxen-Teschen and Archduchess Marie Christine’s (sister of Marie Antoinette) collection of drawings, several Imperial staterooms, as well as modern additions to the collection of works. Notably, the Albrecht Durer “Young Hare” (1502) was on view and the detail is astounding. I’d recommend it, particularly if your time is limited, since the collection is a manageable size for an afternoon.

Imperial Treasury Vienna (aka The Kaiserliche Schatzkammer) is a great opportunity see the how the royal .001% lives and has some stunning examples of craftsman ship and artistry. My favorite was the royal hatbox. The Secular treasury has the expected jewels, crowns and, robes, while Ecclesiastical treasury surprised us with some rather spooky reliquaries. I’ll let you look that one up…

Spanish Riding School Imagine a traditional, American state fair horse ring if an Emperor designed it - chandeliers, statues, columns - and you’ll start to get an idea of the Spanish Riding School. The performance (see 8:00) is classical dressage - like ballet for equestrians - captivating and amazing for the graceful strength of the horses and riders.

Volksgarten, Vienna, Austria | Image: Laura Messersmith

Nachtmarkt Vienna A paradise for anyone who loves farmer’s markets, food stalls, and antiquing. We wandered through around lunchtime on a Saturday and enjoyed (attempting) to decipher the German signage and wading through the flood of locals out on a gorgeous spring day. Another excellent people watching opportunity.

Sound of Music Tour Two things - Salzburg should be a destination unto itself, and I have a love/tolerate relationship with tours. They’re helpful if time is limited, but then you’re on someone else’s schedule. That said, this one did allow us to make the most of our one day in the city, see 90% of the locations from one of my all time favorite movies, plus some breathtaking views of Alpine lakes and mountains. Pretty good work for just 10 hours.

Salzburg, Austria | Image: Laura Messersmith

Dine:

Neni am Nachtmarkt Israeli/Middle Eastern food in Vienna? Sure, why not. Another excellent recommendation from our Viennese friends, Neni is right in the heart of the Nachtmarkt and served as a welcome oasis on our first jet-lagged day. Loved the couscous salad with chicken, pomegranate, and goat cheese.

Figlmüeller When in Wien one must have Wiener schnitzel. We were directed to Figlmüeller by some Viennese friends and they were 100% right. We shared a giant, beautifully crispy schnitzel and a mixed salad (greens, carrots, sauerkraut, and potato salad) dressed lightly in vinaigrette. Definitely make a reservation here!

Mayer am Pfarrplatz is a winery, restaurant, and wine garden all in one. It was too cool to sit in the garden, but the cozy atmosphere of the restaurant made us feel right at home. Try a flight of the winery’s whites and reds, and if there’s something called “Pie Plant Cake” (aka Rhubarb) on the dessert menu get that too.

Salzburg, Austria | Images: Laura Messersmith

Sacher Café Vienna Vienna is known for its café culture, and this is a classic example. Sachertorte (chocolate cake) is the café’s namesake specialty, but we preferred the apfelstrudel (essentially apple pie.) Note of caution: ordering “coffee” in Austria seems to equal “double espresso.” A “café au lait” is more likely to approximate an American brewed drip coffee with steamed milk. Learned that one the hard way, twice!

Salzachgrill We didn’t set out to visit all the entire Hotel Sacher chain, but were lured in by the Sachergrill’s terrace. It overlooks the Salzach River and we had a relaxing lunch, did some people watching and sipped a local beer called Stiegl Lemon Radler and another local beverage called Almduddler (aka yodeling juice). I'm obsessed with both now.

Lake Leopoldskroner Weiher, Salzburg, Austria | Image: Laura Messersmith