Scouting: Brooklyn Grange Farm

August 22, 2014 by Laura Messersmith in Scouting

Brooklyn Grange Farm, Brooklyn Navy Yard | Image: Laura Messersmith — **Brooklyn Grange Farm, Brooklyn Navy Yard** | Image: *Laura Messersmith*

The longer I live in New York the less surprised I am by the ingenuity of New Yorkers. Millions of people manage to go about life side by side with millions of other people in small spaces, the majority without cars, and it all seems to work somehow – miraculous and mundane.

That’s pretty much how I felt when I learned about Brooklyn Grange Farm – yes that’s right the words “Brooklyn” and “Farm” are both in the name. Farming, something humans have been doing for thousands of years but in an urban setting on a large scale. As I snooped through their website it began to make perfect sense and then I had to see it for myself.

The idea in a nutshell is to repurpose otherwise un- or under-utilized commercial rooftops – old-school concrete warehouses for example – and turn them into growing space for crops like kale, tomatoes, carrots, eggplant, zucchini, peppers, etc, etc... The farms also offers a home for honeybee hives, chicken coops, helps recycle and manage rainwater, and processes compost from household food scraps to fertilize the beds.

The produce is sold at local farmers markets, to restaurants, and to CSA members in the New York area. I thought I had a pretty solid idea of what it would be like, but I was still amazing by the scope of the project and frankly by the breathtaking views of the Manhattan skyline from the top of Farm #2 in the Brooklyn Navy Yard.

If you’re even remotely interested in gardening or local produce I highly recommend taking one of their tours, and I already have my sights set on the some of the events the Brooklyn Grange Farm hosts. The Brown Paper Dinner in early October for a certain husband’s birthday, for example…

Mustard Marinated Flank Steak

August 21, 2014 by Laura Messersmith in Cooking with the Contessa

As inspiration for more adventurous culinary efforts I’m following along with Ina Garten, aka The Barefoot Contessa, in my tiny New York kitchen. Let’s see if I can keep up with the Contessa!

Episode: “Barbeques and Bouquets”

The Set-up: Ina and her friend Antonia are swapping expertise – I’ll let you guess which one is doing barbeques and which one is doing bouquets.

The Menu: Easy Gazpacho with Goat Cheese Croutons, Mustard Marinated Flank Steak, Sicilian Grilled Swordfish

0:51 – First, up: Easy Gazpacho with Goat Cheese Croutons and Ina is dicing vegetables.

1:39 – This recipe does seem very easy. So far the process consists of Step 1. Make vegetables small with a knife. Step 2. Make vegetables really small with a food processor.

2:18 – Next, Step 3. Whisk the very small vegetables with seasonings.

3:03 – Finally, Step 4. Let the tiny, seasoned vegetables think about what they’ve done and grow in power.

4:22 – We take a break from our vegetable processing to see what Antonia is up to in the flower world. (Spoiler alert: she’ll be teaching Ina about making bouquets.)

4:46 – If Ina’s love of orange tulips and blue muscari has infiltrated even the most obscure Hamptons florist shops how has Antonia, alleged dear friend, escaped knowing this key piece of trivia? Time for a new BFF I think… (Call me!)

5:34 – Back with Ina to make crouton toppers for the gazpacho. Here the ‘crouton’ does not refer to a seasoned cube of bread a la Caesar salad, but a slice of baguette broiled to crisp perfection and schmeared with goat cheese. Yum.

6:51 – Ina puts the finishing touches on the soup as Antonia arrives with half the flower shop in her arms. They toast (pun not originally intended) with their soup and croutons.

11:09 – Time for the Barbecue part of the episode as kicked off by Antonia opening a bottle of white wine in prep for the Mustard Marinated Flank Steak. You have my full attention.

11:38 – Ina has two Pro Tips for us. #1: Scoring the top of the flank steak in a criss-cross pattern allows the marinade to absorb better. #2: mix the marinade right in the measuring cup.

12:22 – We learn that Antonia lives on Cape Cod now and has a tendency to follow her nose Yogi Bear-style to the backyard of anyone grilling which does sound like a good strategy for garnering invitations.

13:43 – Off to the grill! Pro Tip #3: Brush the grill with a little olive oil to keep the meat from sticking. Also, according to Antonia “It’s not a party unless something catches on fire.” Keep that in mind if you’ve invited her to dinner…

14:19 – Pro Tip #4: Always allow the meat to rest (10-15 minutes) before slicing to allow the juices to come back in. We don’t see the results, but I’ve decided to trust her that it will be “perfectly medium rare.”

19:34 – Last grilling recipe: Sicilian Grilled Swordfish in honor of Antonia’s Italian ancestry. This one is a little different – the marinade goes on after the fish is cooked. Again, extending trust here.

20:06 – Antonia is supposed to be making the marinade, but the swordfish filets are fairly thin (1/2” or so) and I can hear the panic Ina’s voice that they’ll be cooked before she finishes. There’s no time for explanations!

20:41 – “She wields a mean whisk.” One of my favorite Ina quotes.

21:25 – The swordfish is off the grill and the marinade is finished (whew!) Ina uses a fork to poke small holes in the filets, then pours the marinade over the top and wraps the plate in foil. I’ve never seen that technique before, but it’s similar to the flank steak trick we learned earlier.

26:17 – Onward with Act 2: Bouquets. Antonia will be guiding us through how to create an old-fashioned ‘nosegay’ aka: a small portable bouquet.

27:38 – Step 1: make a layer of flat green leaves to give the flowers a background and to cover the stems. Cut long stemmed flowers quite short so that the blooms are closer together.

28:22 – Step 2: put in a base of Flower #1 (Ina and Antonia started with the larger orange tulips) then fill in with small groupings of the contrasting Flower #2 (smaller blue muscari), and finally add a different texture with Flower #3 (orange star of jerusalem) choose something in the same color palette as Flower #1.

29:53 – Step 3: wrap that bouquet up with florist wire and/or tape and cut the ends to the right length. Step 4: pretend you’re bridesmaids and hum the “Wedding March.” Step 5: realize you’re wearing the same outfit too….

Final Thoughts:

I never thought of putting a marinade on after the meat is already cooked – I want to try that some time.

Antonia’s bouquet lesson was really helpful; great tips!

I would happily buy a French blue shirt and join Ina and Antonia’s ‘bridal party.’

Lessons Learned:

In May or June all my cooking magazines start talking about all these great recipes to make on the grill, but with a 12th story apartment, no terrace and definitely no backyard I’ve been left to live vicariously through photos. I decided to make a first attempt at what I’ll call “urban grilling” with the Mustard Marinated Flank Steak and the purchase of a Lodge cast iron grill pan.

The recipe itself is very easy to follow; if you can chop garlic and shallots and measure wine, olive oil and mustard you’re already half done. The tricky part is the grilling, but Ina was right on with her timing. I pre-heated the grill pan for a few minutes until it was hot, cooked each side for exactly 5 minutes, rested for 10 minutes under foil and the meat was hot and red in the center (medium-rare.) If you like beef cooked a little more then add a minute or so to the cooking time and check with a meat thermometer.

One final point: with the exception of the marinating time (I left mine overnight in the refrigerator) – the prep and cooking take no more than 30 minutes of hands on time. FAST.

Small Kitchen Friendly?

Yes, without question. I used one glass casserole dish (to marinate the steak in), one liquid measuring cup, a small cutting board, a cast iron grill pan, tongs, whisk, and chef’s knife.

The Verdict:

Let’s be honest, short of burning the meat to a crisp or waaay over seasoning it steak will always be a hit in the Messersmith household, so it’s no surprise that we both really liked Mustard Marinated Flank Steak. The flavor of the mustard in the marinade comes through, but not so strongly that it masks the beef, and the grill pan did a great job of imparting caramelized sear – don’t forget to pre-heat! It probably would be a bit better with a little charcoal smoke from a real grill, but if your outdoor space is exactly zero this works pretty darn well.

Farmers Market Tomato and Ricotta Tart

August 18, 2014 by Laura Messersmith in Cooking

These days I’m pretty much always thinking about cooking – what to make next, what are we in the mood for, what new skill should I attempt, can I make that restaurant dish at home? After a deluge of inspiration - the Heirloom Tomato Tart with Ricotta and Basil from Williams-Sonoma, which was preceded in my Pinterest feed by this beautiful pin of Tomatoes on Garlic Toast. Then, the current issue of Bon Appétit which features a beautiful dish by Yotam Ottolenghi, and finally my brand new copy of the Smitten Kitchen cookbook arrived. I’ll give you one guess on the image gracing the cover: Tomato Scallion Shortcakes with Whipped Goat Cheese (pg. 65).

I decided to take this deluge of brightly colored tomato-based photos as a sign. Perhaps I should get with the program and make something that highlights the beautiful tomatoes in season right at this very moment? Worse culinary ideas have happened and with all those experts to guide me I couldn’t make too big a mess.

I knew I wanted this recipe to be a light and summery tart, featuring tomatoes (and cheese). I referred to both the W-S recipe and to the crust from the Smitten Kitchen Cookbook recipe for Wild Mushroom Tart (pg. 95), but then went on to make something new – partially out of necessity (like when the pantry is missing cornmeal and uncooked polenta is substituted) and partially to satisfy my own taste.

The ‘fanciness’ of the presentation is deceptive, so I hope you won’t be intimidated like I was when I first saw W-S’s tart. But, if you’re a perfectionist or feeling stressed here’s a tip: after the tomatoes are sliced practice layering on the cutting board or a piece of foil before trying to arrange them on the tart. It helped my confidence and reassured me that even if I didn’t make a precise, mathematically balanced kaleidoscope of slices it would still look lovely. And, in the end, I think it did, so there’s that.

I hope you try this soon while the tomatoes in the farmers market (or grocery store) are still amazing – I’d love to see your results!

Farmers Market Tomato and Ricotta Tart (serves 6-8)

Tart Shell Ingredients:

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons all purpose flour
1/4 cup polenta or finely ground cornmeal
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
6 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, diced in small cubes
1 tablespoon room temperature butter
1 large egg

Filling Ingredients:

1 3/4 cups whole milk ricotta cheese
2 1/2 ounces plain goat cheese, softened
1 cup parmesan cheese, finely grated
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/3 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3/4 teaspoon minced fresh thyme
1 pint small-medium heirloom, grape or cherry tomatoes, washed and dried

Directions

In a medium bowl mix together flour, polenta or cornmeal, and salt. Using a pastry cutter or fork work the diced butter into the dry ingredients until the butter is in very small pieces and the mixture is just starting to come together. Add the egg and mix in with a fork until the dough forms a rough ball. The mixture will be fairly dry, resembling shortbread.

Turn the dough into an ungreased 9” tart pan with a removable bottom and using the floured, flat side of a measuring cup press into the bottom and along the sides of the pan in an even layer. Even the edges with a butter knife, or by flattening with the measuring cup.

Place the unbaked tart shell in the freezer for 20-30 minutes until the dough is firm to the touch. While tart shell is chilling, preheat the oven to 375 degrees F.

Remove the shell from freezer and place on a baking sheet. Using a brush or clean hands, spread the room temperature butter on a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover the tart shell with some overhang. Smooth the buttered side of the foil along the bottom of the tart shell and up the sides.

Bake the foil covered tart shell for 10 minutes. Carefully remove the foil from the shell and using a fork, prick the bottom of the shell – this will allow any air to release. Replace the uncovered tart shell in the oven and bake for an additional 5 to 8 minutes until it is lightly golden and crisp. Set tart shell aside on a baking rack and allow to cool completely.

While the tart shell is cooling, assemble the ricotta filling. In a medium bowl, whisk together the ricotta and softened goat cheese until smooth, then stir in the finely grated parmesan, kosher salt, pepper, and fresh thyme. Cut the tomatoes – a serrated knife will work best – into 1/4 to 1/8” slices.

Once the tart shell is completely cooled, spoon the ricotta mixture into the shell and smooth with a spatula or knife. Layer the sliced tomatoes on top of the cheese in any pattern or arrangement you like – this is a moment to be creative! Sprinkle with a few fresh thyme leaves, salt and pepper.

Serve just as it is or with a spoonful of pesto sauce.

Small Kitchen Friendly:

Yes, definitely. I used one medium bowl (used twice and washed between the dough and filling steps), one 9” tart pan, one baking sheet, a pastry cutter, one medium cutting board, one serrated knife, a microplane grater, a rubber spatula, and measuring cups and spoons. A butter knife and a dinner fork round out the tools.

The Verdict:

Mike and I had this on sunny, August Sunday afternoon and were really happy with the taste of these classic flavor combinations presented in a slightly different format. Mike particularly liked the flavor and texture of the polenta/cornmeal crust as a contrast to the creaminess of the cheese filling. And, since I had a little pesto in the freezer from a few weeks ago I defrosted it and we drizzled a little on top – yum. A success I’d say, since we’re already brainstorming variations with other seasonal vegetables. I foresee something involving caramelized onions in our future…

Minty Fresh Scouting: Chicago Edition

August 15, 2014 by Laura Messersmith in Scouting

How is it possible that Summer feels like it’s drawing to a close when we’ve just barely reached mid-August? It was down right chilly this morning on my walk with Maddie and I’m thinking seriously of making soup today – what’s that about?

But, you’ll be glad to know that I’m resisting this early onset autumn and persevering in my search for the Best Mint Chocolate Chip Ice Cream with not one, not two, but three (I am seeking help at the gym…) different ice cream samples during our trip to Chicago last weekend. Honestly, when I think of the Windy City’s cuisine my mind goes more to deep dish pizza or pretzels not so much ice cream, but I have to say I was impressed by all three of the fine establishments I visited. They’re collected here for your minty pleasure.

The Scientific Part:

The rules are the same and Mint Chocolate Chip is the name of the game. (A rapper I am not.) I’m judging based on five criteria - Flavor and then the four “Cs” - Color, Creaminess, Chips, and Charm.

In my ideal world I want a dash of kitsch with my high-quality ingredients, so my preference is for pale green ice cream with intense mint flavor and deep dark chocolate shavings. Yes, I realize that this doesn’t make them ‘chips’ per se, but then they’re more smoothly incorporated with the ice cream. I’m giving extra points for a whimsical setting or special experience – that’s the Charm part.

The scoop on the contestants:

Black Dog Gelato | Image: Laura Messersmith — **Black Dog Gelato** | Image: *Laura Messersmith*

Black Dog Gelato (Ukrainian Village/Chicago)

“Black Dog Gelato creates gourmet gelato and sorbets combining the artisanal process with inventive and intriguing flavors. Gelato is made fresh daily in small batches and begins with the simplest ingredients: milk, cream, sugar, eggs, freshly toasted nuts, seasonal fruits, and quality chocolates.”

Bobtail Ice Cream | Image: Laura Messersmith — **Bobtail Ice Cream** | Image: *Laura Messersmith*

Bobtail Ice Cream (Lakeview/Chicago)

“Bobtail is the only Chicago company that makes truly homemade, hard-pack ice cream. We specialize in classic, seasonal and locally-inspired ice cream flavors… use[ing] only top-quality ingredients. Bobtail combines three generations of Wilcoxon family recipes and small-town ideals with fresh-energy and an urban touch!”

PS: The Chicago Tribune says “Bobtail” a slang term derived from the nickname of the handle on an old-fashioned soda fountain. Fun fact.

Graham's Fine Chocolate & Ice Cream | Image: Laura Messersmith — **Graham's Fine Chocolate & Ice Cream** | Image: *Laura Messersmith*

Graham’s Fine Chocolate & Ice Cream (Geneva, IL)

The Graham’s site is a bit cagey on the details, but careful research across the Internet gleaned the following info and a revelation: it’s gelato!

“Homemade. Hand dipped. The ultimate taste in fine chocolates. Using only the finest and freshest ingredients from around the globe, we combine taste with artistry to make our signature candies.”

After a gelato taste-testing trip to Italy, [owner Bob Untiedt] came home inspired to bring this creation to his customers. “Twenty-five years ago, when we started making gelato, it was just easier to say it was ice cream,” said Untiedt, who makes all varieties with a special gelato machine. – BataviaSun.com

Oreo Mint by Black Dog Gelato | Image: Laura Messersmith — **Oreo Mint by Black Dog Gelato** | Image: *Laura Messersmith*

Black Dog’s Score:

Flavor – intensely minty flavor that built in intensity (5 of 5)

Color – the ideal shade of pale green! (5 of 5)

Creaminess – beautifully smooth and creamy - this is gelato after all (5 of 5)

Chips – I hate to dock points on a technicality, but actually they were Oreos… (2 of 5)

Charm – cute shop, but it lacked a certain I-don’t-know-what (2 of 5)

Total Score: 19/25

Mint Chip by Bobtail Ice Cream | Image: Laura Messersmith — **Mint Chip by Bobtail Ice Cream** | Image: *Laura Messersmith*

Bobtail’s Score:

Flavor – gently minty and refreshing (4 of 5)

Color – a pale white, bummer (1 of 5)

Creaminess – dense and creamy, excellent texture (5 of 5)

Chips – large, thin shards of semi sweet chocolate (4 of 5)

Charm – rocking an 1950s ice cream shop vibe in a way that tiptoes at the edge of kitsch (3 of 5)

Total Score: 17/25

Green Mint Chip by Graham's Fine Chocolate & Ice Cream | Image: Laura Messersmith — **Green Mint Chip by Graham's Fine Chocolate & Ice Cream** | Image: *Laura Messersmith*

Graham’s Score:

Flavor – gently minty would have loved a touch more cooling flavor (4 of 5)

Color – the perfect pale, Palm Beach green! (5 of 5)

Creaminess – quite creamy and smooth I should have realized it was gelato… (4 of 5)

Chips – large, thin shards of semi sweet chocolate – very similar to Bobtail (4 of 5)

Charm – old-fashioned, Wonka-style candy store + white Adirondack chairs for outdoor lounging (4 of 5)

Total Score: 22/25

Current Rankings:

For folks following these adventures at home, here are the current rankings of the ice creams and shops I’ve visited so far. Those top three spots are pretty hotly contested with representation from NYC, PA, and Chicagoland – see, no favoritism here!

1. The Lands at Hillside Farms: 22/25

2. Graham’s Fine Chocolate & Ice Cream: 21/25

3. Ample Hills Creamery: 20/25

4. Black Dog Gelato: 19/25

5. Van Leeuwen Artisan Ice Cream: 18/25

6. Bobtail Ice Cream: 17/25

7. Cayuga Lake Creamery: 16/25

8. Sundaes and Cones: 11/25