Scouting: Kalustyan's

Kalustyan's, Kips Bay, New York | Image: Laura Messersmith

Kalustyan's, Kips Bay, New York | Image: Laura Messersmith

few weeks ago, before the tree lots appeared and a random trip to the Kips Bay seemed like a good reason to leave my cozy spot on the sofa, I took a little journey south to check out Kalustyan’s. I came across the listing for this specialty food shop on Yelp and the reviews were glowing, so naturally I had to visit this foodie haven for myself.

Kalustyan's, Kips Bay, New York | Image: Laura Messersmith

Kalustyan's, Kips Bay, New York | Image: Laura Messersmith

Kalustyan's, Kips Bay, New York | Image: Laura Messersmith

Kalustyan's, Kips Bay, New York | Image: Laura Messersmith

One of the distinctive features of New York grocery stores is the space, or lack of it really, and Kalustyan’s is an outstanding example of efficiently using every square inch to offer a huge selection in a relatively tiny space. Narrow little aisles packed floor to ceiling with boxes, jars, and cellophane packages of tea, dried fruit, whole grains, mushrooms, seasonings, jam, and sauces. I can see why Saveur consistently refers readers to the shop for help sourcing ingredients not commonly found in American grocery chains, and a Bon Appétit writer mentioned it in an article about creating custom spice blends.

Kalustyan's, Kips Bay, New York | Image: Laura Messersmith

Kalustyan's, Kips Bay, New York | Image: Laura Messersmith

Kalustyan's, Kips Bay, New York | Image: Laura Messersmith

Kalustyan's, Kips Bay, New York | Image: Laura Messersmith

Honestly, you could lose entire days examining the options in each category, especially the house-brand spice blends. I left after more than an hour feeling a little dazed by the possibilities and carrying a small sack of farro and a jar of mango chutney. I have ideas for both items and I have this amazing shop to thank for the inspiration! So, while a trip to Lexington and East 28th isn’t always the most convenient for me, you better believe that I’ll be keeping Kalustyan’s in mind the next time I’m looking for something a little out of the ordinary.

Kalustyan’s | 123 Lexington Avenue; New York, NY 10016 | Mon - Sat 10:00 am – 8:00 pm; Sun 11:00 am – 7:00 pm

Pear, Apple and Cranberry Crisp

Pear Apple and Cranberry Crisp | Image: Laura Messersmith

Pear Apple and Cranberry Crisp | Image: Laura Messersmith

Each week I follow along with Ina Garten (aka the Barefoot Contessa) and attempt to recreate one of her dishes in my tiny New York City kitchen. The catch? This is my version of cooking school and I’m making these recipes for the first time. I’ll share both my successes and um, challenges, along the way and we’ll see if I can keep up with the Contessa!

Episode: “Barn Warming”

The Set-up: Ina’s new barn is finally finished and she’s breaking it in with a party for the people who designed and built it.

The Menu: Pear, Apple, and Cranberry Crisp; Ribollita; Tomato, Mozzarella, and Basil Sandwich; Smoked Salmon and Herb Butter

0:45 – We’re starting out by shopping for ingredients and table décor at Pike’s Farm Stand, which Ina calls her favorite “country experience.”

1:13 – Ina has pretty much cleaned them out – carrots, cabbage, apples – she has some of everything!

2:22 – We’re back at the barn and the cooking has begun with the Ribollita, an Italian vegetable soup I’ve never heard of.

3:54 – Pro Tip#1: When cooking dried beans salt the water at the end so the beans stay tender.

4:38 – Now for a massive pile of leafy greens – 8 cups each of savoy cabbage and kale.

5:16 – I realize that Ina is cooking for a crowd, this doesn’t strike me as a #smallkitchenfriendly recipe. She’s already used two giant pots, a colander, large bowl, and a food processor. Yikes.

6:45 – I like how thrifty Ina is – for example, she’s using some of the cooking liquid from the beans as part of the broth for the soup.

7:29 – Oh, dear. If the leafy greens (not my favorite in soups) weren’t enough now there’s bread involved and I just cannot take soggy bread. Cross Ribollita off my list!

10:11 – Now she’s speaking my language: Pear, Apple, and Cranberry Crisp.

11:20 – I am 100% on the pear bandwagon these days, especially after my taste-testing at Pike’s Place Market last month.

12:55 – Ina calls the pie/fruit crisp “goo” a “sauce” which is probably a more elegant word.

13:18 – The consummate hostess, even the scent of spicy baking to greet her guests has been considered. Do you think she took that page from the Clueless playbook?

14:34 – I am a huge fan of the entire crisp/crumble family – so much easier than dealing with pie crust!

15:21 – Now on to the food table set up using all of the farm stand produce Ina collected.

19:47 – Next, the Smoked Salmon and Herb Butter and I’m excited because I love a good compound butter. Yum.

20:30 – Pro Tip #2: Starting with unsalted butter allows you to control the salt seasoning.

21:16 – Ina is using dark, whole grain bread that looks so similar to the kind I like to buy at Zabars. I’ll bet you one pear and apple crisp that it’s Eli’s bread…

22:53 – We’ve moved on to slicing the smoked salmon and I can’t decide whether I’m impressed or frightened.

23:05 - She basically treated the salmon slices like a puzzle to be reassembled and her attention to detail is intimidating… This is why she earns the big bucks, folks!

25:31 – Ina says she thinks the best way to thank people is by having them come for dinner, which I suppose is true. It certainly is more effort than a gift certificate or dinner in a restaurant.

26:27 – Now for the last dish: Tomato, Mozzarella, and Basil Sandwich which Ina says she’s going to let people serve themselves. How does she let them know that’s the expectation?

27:45 – I’m feeling both a little smug and relieved – I still have a tiny bit of pesto left in the freezer from this past summer, but Ina just bought hers at the store.

28:50 – The table is set, and of course it looks spectacular. Simultaneously cohesive and abundant.

29:13 – Ina’s guests have arrived and everyone is poppin’ bottles and enjoying mugs of soup. She loves it when a plan comes together.

Final Thoughts:

I always feel so disoriented in a new layout; I wonder how long it took Ina to get comfortable cooking in the new barn kitchen?

I think I’ve figured out the buffet strategy: demonstrate for a few people and then tell everyone else to “help yourself to [insert name of intimidating dish, ie. salmon platter].”

How cool would it be to work with Ina on a project like her new barn/kitchen/base of operations?

Pear Apple and Cranberry Crisp | Image: Laura Messersmith

Pear Apple and Cranberry Crisp | Image: Laura Messersmith

Lessons Learned:
For me, the trickiest part of making Pear, Apple, and Cranberry Crisp is what makes all recipes involving fruit difficult: getting the consistency of the “goo” right. And by goo, I mean the combination of the fruit juices with the sugar and flour. How much sugar, and especially, how much flour really depends on the specific fruit and I’m still getting the hang of how to judge when I need to add a little more than what the recipe calls for.

That isn’t the fault of the recipe, it’s just something that comes with experience and with this particular attempt the pears were really really ripe. As you can see by the ribbons of juice on the sides of the ramekins my judgment was a little off…. Thankfully, with a baking sheet and a piece of parchment paper a little run over is no big deal and with no bottom crust to worry about crisps are a great training ground for goo mastery.

Pear Apple and Cranberry Crisp | Image: Laura Messersmith

Pear Apple and Cranberry Crisp | Image: Laura Messersmith

Small Kitchen Friendly?
Yes, indeed. I used a medium cutting board, one medium and one small bowl, a chef’s knife, and a vegetable peeler. I also used four small ramekins (I cut the recipe in half), a baking sheet, a pastry cutter, a rubber spatula, measuring cups and spoons. That’s it!

The Verdict:
I’ve always loved firm fruits like apples and with the addition of pears, cranberries, and spices – how could Pear, Apple, and Cranberry Crisp go wrong? It’s delicious as is, but as I get older I’ve begun to crave a brighter balance of acidity in fruit desserts. So, the only slight change I might make is adding little more lemon juice or trying fresh cranberries to amp up the tartness. Honestly, this dessert is so simple it would be easy to make often and I could envision a breakfast version of this dish, a brilliant idea I first heard on Smitten Kitchen. Definitely make this while cranberries and pears are in season!

Pear Apple and Cranberry Crisp | Image: Laura Messersmith

Pear Apple and Cranberry Crisp | Image: Laura Messersmith

Thanksgiving Turkey Pot Pie

Thanksgiving Turkey Pot Pie | Image: Laura Messersmith

Thanksgiving Turkey Pot Pie | Image: Laura Messersmith

Unless you’re a domestic goddess of the highest order, able to predict down to the last bite exactly how much your guests will eat, by the time Thanksgiving weekend rolls around there is a fridge-full of leftovers from the big day. I love a cold turkey sandwich smeared with a little cranberry sauce, but eventually a more concentrated effort is needed. That’s where Thanksgiving Turkey Pot Pie comes in.

It serves the dual purpose of echoing the flavors of Thursday’s delicious dishes and providing an avenue for using up extras in a way that doesn’t feel like an after thought. Since this dish is a medley of ingredients you really don’t need a lot of any one item, just use what ever you might have on hand.

While I went super traditional starting with a mirepoix of onions, carrots, and celery followed by potatoes and peas (because that’s what I had in the apartment already); this recipe would easily accommodate mushrooms, green beans, diced parsnips, or roasted squash. I used frozen puff pastry for the topping because I’m assuming that after all that cooking neither of us have the energy for rolling out dough. I mean, look how crazy it looks as is - can you imagine if I tried to make my own? Disaster. Another thought: top the pot pie with your extra mashed potatoes and turned it into a shepherd’s pie!

This was the first idea that came to mind for me, but I’d love to know other ways you transform Thanksgiving leftovers into a new dinner?

Thanksgiving Turkey Pot Pie | Image: Laura Messersmith

Thanksgiving Turkey Pot Pie | Image: Laura Messersmith

Thanksgiving Turkey Pot Pie (serves 4-6)

Ingredients:
5 tablespoons softened butter, divided
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 cups (2 medium) yellow onions, diced
2 cups (2 large) carrots, peeled and diced
1 cup (1 large stalk) celery, diced
4 cups (3 medium) white or Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and diced
2 1/2 cups roasted turkey, diced
1 cup frozen peas
4 cups chicken broth
2 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided
1 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper, divided
1 1/2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme, divided
1 dried bay leaf
2 tablespoons all purpose flour, plus extra for dusting
2 sheets puff pastry, thawed
1 egg
1 tablespoon water

Instructions:
Thaw the puff pastry over night in the refrigerator.

Prep onions, carrots, and celery dicing each vegetable to 1/4 inch size. In a large French oven, melt together 2 tablespoons butter and 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium-low heat. Sauté diced onions, carrots and celery until onions are translucent and carrots and celery begin to soften.

Meanwhile, peel and dice the potatoes to 1/2 inch size. Add the potatoes, chicken broth, 2 teaspoons kosher salt, and 1 teaspoon black pepper to the pot and increase the heat to medium. Add 1 teaspoon minced thyme and the bay leaf. Bring the chicken broth to a simmer and cook for 20-25 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the potatoes can be pierced with a fork.

Clean the roasted turkey of any stray skin or fat (I used a combination of light and dark meat for flavor) and dice to 1/2 inch size. Add the diced turkey and frozen peas to the pot and stir to combine. Cook for 5-6 minutes, or until the turkey comes up to temperature.

Remove the bay leaf and discard.

On a small plate, mash 3 tablespoons softened butter and 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour with a fork until all the flour is incorporated. Add the butter and flour mixture to the pot and stir until it dissolves and the broth begins to thicken.

Unwrap the puff pastry and place on a surface dusted with flour. Roll out as needed to fit your ramekins or oven-proof baking dish and cut to allow an extra 1 inch border.

In a small bowl whisk the egg with 1 tablespoon water for the egg wash. Set the ramekins or baking dish on a baking sheet.

Ladle the hot pot pie filling into ramekins or baking dish and brush the edge of the dish(es) with egg wash. Gently lay the puff pastry over the baking dish and filling. Fold the excess pastry under and press against the edge of the dish to seal. Crimp the edge with your thumb or fork to create a decorative edge.

Brush the top of the puff pastry with egg wash and sprinkle with reserved minced thyme, kosher salt, and black pepper. Depending on the size of the baking dish, use a sharp knife to cut between 2–4 small slits in the pastry to allow steam to escape.

Bake at 400 degrees in a preheated oven for 25–30 minutes until the filling is bubbling and the puff pastry is golden. Cool for 5 minutes before serving – the filling will be very hot!

Thanksgiving Turkey Pot Pie | Image: Laura Messersmith

Thanksgiving Turkey Pot Pie | Image: Laura Messersmith

Small Kitchen Friendly?
Yes, assuming you have something to use as a rolling pin. I used a 5 quart French oven (surprised?), a medium cutting board, a medium bowl for the diced vegetables, a baking sheet, and large ramekins. I also used a chef’s knife, vegetable peeler, measuring cups and spoons, a rolling pin, a small plate, fork, and a wooden spatula.

The Verdict:
I knew I had a solid plan of attack for these Thanksgiving Turkey Pot Pies from my experience with Chicken Pot Pie, but even then I was surprised by how well they turned out. Mike says he’s had pot pies that were underwhelming and bland. Not the case here! The turkey and vegetables are tender and give the filling a deep, satisfying flavor. This dish is tailor made for a cold winter day when spending some quality time in the kitchen near a hot oven sounds like the perfect way to while away an afternoon.

Thanksgiving Turkey Pot Pie | Image: Laura Messersmith

Thanksgiving Turkey Pot Pie | Image: Laura Messersmith

Scouting: Mast Brothers Chocolate

Mast Brother Chocolate, Brooklyn | Image: Laura Messersmith

Mast Brother Chocolate, Brooklyn | Image: Laura Messersmith

I first learned about Mast Brothers Chocolate about a year ago. Another blogger (or was it a Pinterest board?) now lost in the sands of my memory mentioned the company and I'll be honest I was almost more intrigued by the packaging than I was by the contents. Who can resist clean, beautiful design? I figured/hoped any company that puts so much effort into creating such an appealing exterior must certainly put the same level of care into the chocolate within. Also, it's CHOCOLATE and by nature worthy of further study. 

Some time later I also learned that Mast Brothers makes their chocolate just across the East River in Brooklyn and the company actually offers tours to the public. Sign me up! Or rather, take 10+ months to get your act together and finally buy tickets when your sister is in town. To be fair, Katherine is a fellow chocolate lover so this scouting mission was a perfect fit.

We headed to Williamsburg on a chilly Friday night for the tour and were greeted first by the scent of cocoa as we approached and next by the welcoming glow of the factory store. The word factory conjures Willy Wonka visions of industrial level machines, but the reality of Mast Brothers is much more down to earth. 

Mast Brother Chocolate, Brooklyn | Image: Laura Messersmith

Mast Brother Chocolate, Brooklyn | Image: Laura Messersmith

Mast Brother Chocolate, Brooklyn | Image: Laura Messersmith

Mast Brother Chocolate, Brooklyn | Image: Laura Messersmith

They take a very hands-on approach, literally; from sorting the sacks of cocoa beans individually so the roast is even, to tasting every batch of chocolate, to molding and unmolding each bar. After the bars age it's time to wrap them in those colorful papers and apply the labels. All by hand! The amount of labor that goes into producing Mast Brothers Chocolate is amazing and yet even in the midst of the holiday push everyone we met was clearly happy to do it.

Our tour took a hands on approach too allowing us to smell the roasted cocoa beans, crunch through some nibs, taste and compare chocolate at different stages of the stone grinding process, and of course sample their 5 single origin flavors in the finished form.

Mast Brother Chocolate, Brooklyn | Image: Laura Messersmith

Mast Brother Chocolate, Brooklyn | Image: Laura Messersmith

Mast Brother Chocolate, Brooklyn | Image: Laura Messersmith

Mast Brother Chocolate, Brooklyn | Image: Laura Messersmith

The tasting especially made me think about chocolate in a different way. Much like wine or coffee or cheese there are nuances of flavor that driven by the soil, weather conditions, and the drying process. It was really a cool experience that I'd highly recommend for anyone who likes to see how things are made or just wants to learn a little more about chocolate as food, not just candy.

Mast Brother's Chocolate | 111 N 3rd Street | Brooklyn, New York 11211 | 718.388.2625