Buttermilk Cheddar Biscuits

October 21, 2015 by Laura Messersmith in Cooking with the Contessa

Each week I follow along with Ina Garten (aka the Barefoot Contessa) and attempt to recreate one of her dishes in my tiny New York City kitchen. The catch? This is my version of cooking school and I’m making these recipes for the first time. I’ll share both my successes and um, challenges, along the way and we’ll see if I can keep up with the Contessa!

Episode: “Breakfast Party”

The Set-up: Ina has decided to reclaim breakfast as a time to entertain friends.

The Menu: Buttermilk Cheddar Biscuits, Easy Strawberry Jam, Slow-Cooked Scrambled Eggs with Herbs, Juice of a Few Flowers

0:26 – I think Ina might be a morning person, whereas I am assuredly not, but even she doesn’t want to get up early to make Buttermilk Cheddar Biscuits, so the baking will take place tomorrow morning.

1:13 – Pro Tip #1: Reeeeally cold ingredients – cold butter, cold buttermilk, cold eggs, cold cheese – make for light, flaky biscuits. It’s possible this might be the Pro Tip to rule them all.

2:40 – These biscuits also have baking powder in them to help with the fluff factor.

3:17 – Sharp cheddar is my all-time favorite cheese and the block Ina is grating has that dry, crumbly look aged cheddar gets. Pro Tip #2: Toss the shredded cheese with a little flour to help it distribute in the dough.

4:22 – I noticed that Ina just barely mixes the wet ingredients and cheese into the butter and flour. I wonder if it gets tough otherwise?

5:34 – It’s dough rolling time! A little patting, a little kneading and then the biscuits hang out on a sheet pan over night until it’s time to bake.

6:27 – Ina says she’s doing this breakfast party to demonstrate to her friend Frank how easy it is to entertain in the morning. #pointtoprove

9:09 – Okay, onto the Easy Strawberry Jam, which Ina is making in advance too. Is it any wonder she eventually would write a cookbook called Make it Ahead?

10:38 – First things first, a metric ton of strawberries plus superfine sugar, Grand Marnier, and surprisingly half of a peeled and diced Granny Smith apple. I’ve never made jam, but the pectin in the apple seems to be a necessary ingredient?

11:15 – More surprises, the strawberry jam will also have a small amount of blueberries for depth of flavor and color. Is that even legal!?

12:42 – Anywho, more to-do list items that Ina accomplishes the night before in order to make the next day run smoothly: set up the coffee, put out butter to soften, set the table. The jam is done, and now Ina is off to bed!

13:21 – The sun is up and so is Ina, off to the bakery to pick up some croissant for the jam. No need to make everything!

17:08 – Stephen has arrived on the scenes and has been set to grating cheddar for the biscuit topping.

18:46 – Ina demos egg wash and Stephen reveals that his mother never made biscuits, which makes the boozy cocktail they’re about to make all the more necessary. Self-medication you know.

19:50 – Juice of a Few Flowers involves orange, grapefruit, lemon, and lime juice but I guess no vodka? What happen to that bottle of Grand Marnier?

20:54 – Ina is going to rim the edges in sugar, so I suppose that will have to do, and it certainly is more festive.

21:43 – Stephen channels his inner Tom Cruise with the cocktail shaker while Ina takes the biscuits out of the oven. Mmmm those cocktails look awesome.

25:35 – Onward to the Slow-Cooked Scrambled Eggs with Herbs and Stephen wisely asks Ina to show him how she likes herbs to be chopped before attempting the task for himself. I hear you man, I’d ask too!

26:49 – Ina says everyone should know how to make scrambled eggs and offers Pro Tip #3: keeping the liquid to a minimum so the eggs aren’t watery.

27:58 – Stephen wants to know if it’s possible to over beat scrambled eggs, I mean technically yes but I bet his arm gets tired before they’re even remotely close to the danger zone.

28:16 – Ina shares that she switched to scrambled eggs after a disastrous breakfast party when she tried to make individual omelets for 20 people. “How hard is that!?” Pro Tip #4: cook the eggs slowly over very low heat to keep them from getting tough.

29:51 – And just like that, breakfast is done! Stephen and Ina decide to drink first, eat later. Cheers!

Final Thoughts:
The trick to morning parties seems to be doing everything the night before. Noted.

I’d like to make my own jam some day, but even with Ina’s guidance it seems intimidating!

Pretty sure those cocktails could have been made breakfast-appropriate even with a little sparkling wine…

Lessons Learned:
This year I resolved to practice my pie crust – PS: there’s a reason your grandmother makes the best pies, it’s because she’s had 60+ years to perfect her technique! Since tarts, scones and biscuits are close relations I figure it’s all relevant to the process. Also, a batch of Buttermilk Cheddar Biscuits sounded like an amazing addition to our dinner, especially one that involves short ribs (watch this spot for next week’s installment.) Here’s what I learned…

Cold Ingredients – Cold ingredients are essential to a light and flaky biscuit. I’ve made the mistake in the past of not respecting this cardinal rule, but this time I was determined to do it right! I even put the rolled and cut biscuits on a sheet pan in the refrigerator while I mixed the egg wash and did a little tidying. I’d recommend working quickly, keeping the ingredients in the refrigerator in between steps, and resisting the urge to overwork or handle the dough too much. Making these on a cooler day will also help.

Dough Mixing – I skipped the stand mixer altogether and just used a pastry cutter to combine the butter with the flour, and then a regular table fork to fold the liquid ingredients and cheese into the butter mixture. Mixing this relatively small amount of dough doesn’t take a lot of effort and made it easier for me to prevent over-mixing.

Cheese – Ina’s trick of tossing the shreds in a little flour works perfectly. The strands don’t stick together and each bite of biscuit gets that sharp, tangy flavor. Don’t skip this step!

Dough Rolling – I did technically use a rolling pin, but since biscuit are rustic by nature, and you have to do a little folding and kneading anyway, you could easily get away with just patting the dough out into a rough disk or rectangle with your hands.

Small Kitchen Friendly?
Yes, absolutely. I used a medium mixing bowl, pastry cutter, bench scraper (great for cutting the biscuits and for cleaning off the counter), a fork, a knife, measuring cups, a rolling pin, and a rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment paper.

The Verdict:
I made Buttermilk Cheddar Biscuits to accompany a beef short rib dinner - more on that next week - and I’m pretty sure they stole the show from the main course. Light and fluffy inside with a buttery, (obviously) crisp crust they are amazingly good. I was initially worried that the finishing sprinkle of sea salt on top of the cheddar would push them over the edge into salty territory, but it was perfect. The fact that these can be made in a single bowl and bake up in less than 30 minutes means that they could make an appearance at anytime. Dangerous and awesome news…

Cider Braised Chicken & Apples

October 19, 2015 by Laura Messersmith in Cooking

In my mind apples and apple cider are practically synonymous with fall, an arrival to eagerly anticipate as the leaves turn and the autumn crop of MacIntoshes and Cortlands appear. After a childhood spend going to the annual apple festival it’s probably woven into my DNA.

We’d take the backroads, avoiding the line of cars snaking over the hill, to make sure Dad made his shift running the antique cider press on time, then scatter to meet our friends, snoop through the crafts (raffia terror-level: high), and see who was working which food tent. If you were lucky someone you knew would slip an extra fritter - generously sanded with cinnamon sugar, best eaten piping hot - in your paper bag. The two churches in town competed semi-seriously to see who would sell the most pies and the tally at the end of the weekend was a news item of note.

Pie is a classic, but savory dishes like this one that uses both the whole fruit and hard cider put a new spin on apples and take them into new territory. This recipe is simple and thanks to the low and slow method the chicken develops great flavor braising in mustard, thyme, with hard apple cider standing in for white wine.

Cider Braised Chicken & Apples (serves 4)

Ingredients:
4 (2 pounds) bone-in, skin-on medium chicken breasts
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 medium firm apples such as Rome, Spy, or Mutsu
2 cups (1 1/2 bottles) dry hard apple cider (I used Angry Orchard Stone Dry)
1/4 cup Dijon mustard
5-6 fresh thyme sprigs, plus 2 teaspoons minced thyme leaves
1/4 cup heavy cream

Instructions:
Pre-heat the oven to 350 degrees F and position a rack in the center.

Pat the chicken dry with paper towels and season both sides generously with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Heat the olive oil over medium-high heat until very hot in a straight-sided 10 or 11 inch oven-safe sauté pan with a lid.

Place the chicken pieces skin side down and cook until deeply browned, about 5 or 6 minutes. Resist the urge to move the pieces around. When the skin comes away easily from the pan, they’re ready to turn. Use tongs and cook on the other side for 3 to 5 minutes more until browned. Transfer the chicken to a plate and discard all but 1 tablespoon of the oil from the pan. Set the pan aside to cool for a few minutes.

While the chicken is browning, peel, cored, and cut the apples into sixths. Return the pan to medium-high heat, add the apple pieces, and cook, turning once, until both cut sides are golden brown, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer to a different plate.

Carefully pour the hard cider into the pan and bring to a boil, scraping the browned bits from the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon. Whisk the Dijon mustard into the cider until well combined, then add the thyme sprigs, 1 teaspoon kosher salt, and 1/2 teaspoon black pepper. Return the chicken to the pan skin side up, along with any juices that have accumulated and cover. Transfer the pan to the oven and braise for 20 minutes. Nestle the apples in among the chicken pieces and continue to braise 25 to 30 minutes more or until the chicken reaches 160 degrees F on an instant read thermometer.

With a slotted spoon, transfer the chicken and apples to a large serving dish and cover loosely with foil. Discard the thyme sprigs and skim off as much fat as possible from the remaining sauce. Bring the sauce to a boil over medium-high heat and whisk in the cream. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until the sauce is slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Check for seasoning and adjust with salt and pepper.

Pour the sauce over the chicken, sprinkle with the minced thyme leaves, and serve with butternut squash puree or mashed potatoes.

Re-written and lightly adapted from Fine Cooking’s Braised Chicken Legs with Cider, Apples & Mustard by Jennifer McLagan.

Small Kitchen Friendly?
100%. I used a large, deep stainless steel sauté pan with a lid, tongs, a slotted spoon, wooden spatula, a whisk, a liquid measuring cup. A small cutting board, chef’s knife, two plates, paper towels and aluminum foil will do it.

The Verdict:
Unlike other braised dishes, which can sometimes be heavy, this one balances comforting cold-weather food with tangy cider and mustard. I particularly liked the combination of the tart, sweet apples with butternut squash puree – all the flavors of harvest-time on one plate. This meal doesn’t take a lot of time or hands-on effort and still feels special enough for company. I can’t wait to make this again and again in the coming months!

Reading Material: Pumpkin Edition

October 16, 2015 by Laura Messersmith in Reading Material

Farmer's Market Pumpkins | Image: Laura Messersmith — **Farmer's Market Pumpkins** | Image: *Laura Messersmith*

Ina Garten continues to be an inspiration in so many ways – culinary, of course, but I also love her philosophy on life, career, and knowing when to say “yes” and when to say “no.” (via Eater)

Fall wouldn’t be complete without a seasonally appropriate reading of this classic, and comedically expletive-filled McSweeney’s piece. It is decorative gourd season and now you can celebrate with a commemorative mug.

Bradley Cooper’s new movie Burnt about a Michelin star-seeking chef looks interesting, but what I’m really anticipating is the new Bond movie: Spectre…! (via Wired; YouTube)

Bon Appétit asked Sloane Crosley, author of I Was Told There’d Be Cake, about her morning routine. Her book that made me laugh out loud as I read it, and now that I know about her love of cereal I’m pretty sure we’re kindred spirits.

Buzzfeed has gathered and actually cooked several horrific mid-century recipes just in time for Halloween! These are serious crimes against food - think Jell-O molded everything and a lot of boiled ham (eww.)

In this, the season of pumpkin spice, it seemed appropriate to introduce you to Pumpkin the Raccoon. Yes, I feel ridiculous following a raccoon who already has 253,000 followers on Instagram. But, look at that face! Also, the images are hilarious and well-shot, so. (via Bored Panda)

Pumpkin the Raccoon | Image: Rosie Kemp — **Pumpkin the Raccoon** | Image: *Rosie Kemp*

Roasted Potato Leek Soup

October 14, 2015 by Laura Messersmith in Cooking with the Contessa

Episode: “Comfort Classics Close-up”

The Set-up: A magazine article on comfort food has Ina re-examining the classic, while Miguel snaps the photos.

The Menu: Bagels with Smoked Salmon & Whitefish Salad, Potato Leek Soup, Virgin Marys, Herb Garlic Bread

0:22 – Ina’s platter of Bagels with Smoked Salmon & Whitefish Salad is inspired by the appetizing provisions her grandparents used to bring from Brooklyn. She teases them a little, but really Connecticut in the 1950s might not have been the ideal place to find a great bagel.

1:16 – First step, peel and de-bone a whole smoked whitefish and she warns us that actually procuring one might require a little translation.

2:39 – Ina is trying to hard to make this accessible, but really what you need is a good delicatessen – like Barney Greengrass or Russ & Daughters – or a specialty store. Trying to get whitefish at your average fish counter is not likely to result in success.

3:54 – This is a pretty messy job, some seriously hands on work removing the bones and flaking the meat of the smoked whitefish. I’m not sure if I’ve ever had whitefish salad, but it looks really good.

4:31 – Over to Miguel who is setting the scene for the bagel platter with reed mats and simple cutlery.

5:12 – Pro Tip #1: Ina recommends cutting the bagel in thirds – flat on a board, hand on top, watch your fingers! – to get thinner, crispier pieces. Pro Tip #2: Give a bagel platter some height and visual interest by placing the salmon in a herringbone pattern.

6:33 – Whoa, this is some next level trickery. She’s using two whole leaves of radicchio to form bowls for the cream cheese and whitefish salad.

7:25 – A few more layering pieces – slices of lemon, tomato, red onion – and the platter is complete. Wisely, Ina makes Miguel a side plate so he won’t be tempted to devour the platter before the photos are taken!

10:19 – Now we’re moving on to Virgin Marys and I hope you’ll forgive me if I tune out for a moment while she makes these. Cold, spicy tomato juice is one of my least favorite things – not as bad as soggy bread, worse than corn dog.

12:30 – Okay I’m back and whatever took place to make that pitcher of red liquid has been lost to the sands of time.

13:47 – Miguel photographs the set-up of the bagel platter & drinks – now realistically posed thanks to their sips out of the glasses – while Ina moves on to lunch prep.

14:28 – Interesting, the recipe for Potato Leek Soup is essentially a revitalized version of the French soup vichyssoise. Trust the French to transform really rustic ingredients with an uber-elegant name.

15:11 – Ina warns us to wash the leeks really, really carefully since “there’s absolutely no point in making soup if it’s full of sand.” Word.

16:02 – The final step of roasting the vegetables is a handful or two of arugula wilted in at the end. That’s a new one to me…

20:45 – Veggies are out of the oven and now another unique step – the sheet pan goes right on the stove so that Ina can deglaze the browned bits with some white wine.

21:16 – We differ on the texture – Ina prefers something chunky and a little coarse, while I really love a smooth, perfectly blended soup.

22:39 – I’m not sure if vichyssoise traditionally has cream, but Ina is adding both cream and crème fraîche for tang.

23:50 – We check in with Miguel who has assembled a different table setting for the soup – a rustic cheese board is the center piece. I love seeing the choices that another photographer/stylist makes.

24:23 – Ina has made some crispy shallots for a soup garnish and says they take 40-50 minutes to fry. Holy cow.

27:08 – Last up, Herb Garlic Bread. Basil, parsley, garlic all sautéed in olive oil and drizzled into the center of a crunchy baguette. I bet this tastes amazing before it even hits the oven.

28:21 – Finishing touches on the soup, while the bread is in the oven and then everything goes on the table for Miguel to shoot.

29:56 – No side plate of soup this time, so he’ll have to work fast! Wonder if Miguel needs an assistant…?

Final Thoughts:
It’s amazing how the right light and staging really bring out the beauty in food.

Mike would approve of the crispy shallots and flaked shards of parmesan, he loves a textural contrast.

Pretty sure that Potato Leek soup is running in these Irish veins.

Lessons Learned:
I decided to make Potato Leek Soup out of curiosity – could Ina take very simple base ingredients and transform them? Short answer: yes. Long answer: here’s what I learned along the way….

Vegetable Prep – the recipe calls for peeled Yukon gold (aka butter) potatoes, but I realized after the fact that it probably isn’t 100% necessary. This is a rustic, textured soup after all, and why waste those vitamins? My blender is more than up to the challenge of a few thin skins, so next time I’ll probably skip that step and just wash them well.

Roasting Vegetables – I managed to resist crowding the vegetables on the pan, a key element in roasting. The potatoes and leeks need space, otherwise they steam and don’t get the browning caramelization that deepens the flavor.

Deglazing a Baking Sheet – My kitchen has a gas stove and I could write a whole post about why I prefer it, but this is just one example: you actually can put a roasting pan or sheet tray on top. If, however, you’re working with an electric or induction stove fear not - just add the white wine and stock to the rimmed sheet while it’s still hot do a little scraping and put it back the oven if you need a little more heat. No stovetop cooking needed.

Flavor & Ingredients – Ina and I rarely disagree, but I wasn’t sure I liked Potato Leek Soup when I first tasted it. The creaminess was a little much and even with the white wine to provide acid it seemed out of balance, until I realized I had left out the parmesan cheese. I nearly didn’t put it in since the flavor was already trending cheesy to my palate, so I did a test with a sprinkle in a small spoonful and amazingly it was so, so much better. A lesson I occasionally have to re-learn: check the ingredients and make sure they’re all in!

Shallots – I also nearly skipped this step, 30 minutes to fry some shallots (!?) In the end though, I was convinced that I should finish all the steps and I’m really glad that I did. Just like that little bit of parmesan, the crisp shallots add a different texture and a new layer of flavor to the soup. Worth the effort, but don’t forget to turn down the heat once your oil is hot or you’ll have singed shallots. Might have burnt the first batch…sorry neighbors!

Small Kitchen Friendly?
Probably. I used one rimmed baking sheet, a blender (a food processor or stick blender would work too), a 5.5 qt French oven, small sauce pan, a medium cutting board, chef’s knife, vegetable peeler, microplane grater, a wooden spatula, ladle, measuring cups and spoons.

The Verdict:
This Potato Leek Soup with its starches, cream, and cheese should taste heavy and too rich, but magically it doesn’t. The flavor is deep and satisfying, perfect for a mid-autumn supper or as a starter. Particularly helpful when you’re entertaining since it can be made a few days in advance allowing the ingredients to meld. I made this on a weekend and stashed it in the fridge to deploy for a quick dinner – just add grilled cheese and green salad. Keep this one in your back pocket for this winter when a little simmering feels like a good idea.