Chocolate Ganache Cupcakes
Each week I follow along with Ina Garten (aka the Barefoot Contessa) and attempt to recreate one of her dishes in my tiny New York City kitchen. The catch? This is my version of cooking school and I’m making these recipes for the first time. I’ll share both my successes and um, challenges, along the way and we’ll see if I can keep up with the Contessa!
Episode: “The Magic Factor”
The Set-up: Ina is adding a secret ingredient to several recipes and conducting a blind taste-test to see if it’s the “magic factor.
The Menu: Chocolate Ganache Cupcakes, Chicken Salad Sandwiches, Easy Cheese Danish
0:29 – Lemons are the first “magic factor” ingredient in the Easy Cheese Danish recipe.
1:22 – I never knew what kind of cheese went into cheese Danish, here it’s cream cheese and ricotta thinned a bit with eggs.
2:15 – Ina’s taking a little short cut with store-bought puff pastry and I can never roll it out like she does – mine always ends up wonky and overly flat in spots.
3:41 – I thought danishes were typically round, but Ina is folding these like the beginning of a paper airplane which begs the question: how do you make the round ones?
4:17 – Version A. is complete with the cheese and vanilla only, now for Version B. incorporating lemon zest.
5:52 – Now a crash course overview on using lemon zest in cooking: apple pie filling, angel food and blueberry cakes, herbed crust on rack of lamb, and lemon garlic pasta.
6:30 – Ina’s assistant Barbara arrives to ferry the danishes over to the rest of the staff. She’s under strict instructions to have everyone try both and then phone Ina immediately with the results.
7:44 – Both Ina and the staff do their taste test and everyone agrees that Version B. containing the lemon zest is the clear winner. Frankly, I’m relieved - what if Ina’s staff liked the plain one better? Heads will roll!!!*
11:26 – Chicken Salad Sandwiches with tarragon as the “magic ingredient” are up next.
12:55 – She starts by roasting bone-in, skin-on chicken breasts and dicing some celery.
13:34 – Version A. is the basic chicken salad sandwich seasoned only with salt and pepper, but it still looks pretty delicious.
14:28 – Minced tarragon is added to Version B. and Ina makes sandwiches on simple, whole-grain bread adding a small heap of mesclun mix. Seriously, is it lunchtime yet?
15:13 – Barbara arrives right on cue to pick up the samples for the staff. Once again they all pick Version B. and live to eat another day.*
19:57 – Ina has promised the staff Chocolate Ganache Cupcakes and with this recipe the “magic factor” is instant coffee powder. Think: Folgers crystals, or in this case Maxwell House.
20:16 – Here’s something I’ve NEVER seen her use before: Hershey’s Chocolate Syrup. I’m not sure if it makes a difference, but she’s using the canned type, not the squeeze bottle.
21:40 – Ina says that this batter can be used to make any size cake, not just cupcakes. Something to file away for future reference…
22:08 – Upon re-watching I realize that I missed Ina’s recommendation about filling the muffin tins pretty full due to the lack of leavening agent. Note to self: pay better attention!
26:35 – Ina continues to surprise me with this recipe by using chocolate chips for the ganache. Not a chopped chocolate bar in sight!
27:13 – With this recipe Version A. contains the “magic factor” and Version B. is the plain one. Very tricky, let’s see if her staff catches the switch…
28:24 – Cupcakes are boxed and ready for Barbara to bring over to the office. Everyone tastes and deems Version A. the winner, pretty sharp bunch over there.
29:50 – Barbara asks the secret ingredient and instead of answering Ina does a full Sabrina the Teenage Witch disappearing dissolve. Oh no they didn’t!
Final Thoughts:
Someday, perhaps after years of practice I’ll be able to roll out dough evenly.
The cupcake recipe used so many pantry staple ingredients and I love the way Ina elevated them to something decadent.
*I’m pretty sure that Ina is a total sweetheart, so it makes me laugh to imagine her as a culinary tyrant with employees quaking before her wrath.
Lessons Learned:
I adore chocolate and yet, I’ve never made anything with ganache and rarely make cupcakes (usually too fussy for my taste, although they are the most adorable form of cake, so exceptions must be made.) I apologize for how lengthy these comments are, but when it comes to Chocolate Ganache Cupcakes it’s hard to shut up!
Cupcake Batter – This recipe omits both baking powder and soda from the batter and I honestly wondered if there was a misprint. I also couldn’t find canned Hershey’s syrup so I used the same amount of the squeeze bottle variety and crossed my fingers. I hoped that the large number of eggs and fairly thin batter would help the results and I’m happy to report that the cupcakes do rise, but not a ton. These are a deep, dark, and fairly dense cupcake; almost more brownie-ish in texture. Not a bad thing at all, but not the super bouncy, light cake you might be expecting.
Cupcake Portioning – With recipes containing a leavening agent I usually assume that each liner or muffin tin section will be filled to about 75% full to account for the increased volume after baking. These cupcakes don’t expand as much, so I’d recommend filling to about 90-95% full if you want them to rise above the edge of the liner. Seriously, in my first batch the cupcake tops just barely peeked out!
Ganache 101 – Ganache is a general term for the concoction that results from melting chocolate and hot cream together, and like a lot of things in baking, changing the proportion of these two ingredients makes a big difference. More cream and the resulting ganache is thinner, more chocolate and the consistency is thicker. This particular recipe is a 2:1 chocolate to cream proportion and uses chocolate chips which have stabilizers resulting in a sturdier but still pourable mixture when warm.
My Ganache – I wanted a pretty substantial layer – cupcakes are a frosting delivery system after all – so I backed off even a bit more on the cream to a 2 1/2:1 factor. Once my ganache cooled it was practically the stuff of chocolate truffle filling, scoopable and stiff, but while warm was like slightly thin buttercream frosting - almost able to hold its shape but not quite. After swirling the cupcakes in the warm ganache it “set-up” into a glossy coat within a few minutes. Perfect in my book.
Swirl Technique – I recommend holding one cupcake upside down, turning it a few times in the ganache to make sure it’s fully coated, and finishing with the kind of wrist motion you use when trying to finish pouring something like honey or molasses. A twirl and swoop back to right side up.
Extra Bonus: I had a little left over batter, since I didn’t fully grasp the portioning, and I’m here to tell you it lasts in the refrigerator for at least 5 days and still bakes up beautifully - no warming to room temp, no remixing, no fuss at all! Same deal with the ganache, just re-warm over hot water add a smidge more cream if it’s too thick and you’re good to go! Like the cupcake version of slice and bake!
Small Kitchen Friendly?
Yes, for sure. For the batter I used one large heat-safe mixing bowl, a handheld mixer, measuring cups & spoons, a muffin tin, rubber spatula and a cookie scoop to help portion. For the ganache I used the same large bowl, measuring cups, and rubber spatula (washed in between, of course) and a large pot as a double boiler. Muffin liners or papers will definitely help.
The Verdict:
Look, it’s chocolate so already the baseline is set pretty high, but I was surprised how good these Chocolate Ganache Cupcakes are. I think it’s that they do hint at being brownies or flourless torte, while still maintaining enough fluffiness to still be cake. The fudgy ganache glaze – like the best Hostess cake you’ve ever had - doesn’t hurt anything either. We had guests and I smartly (?) made exactly the right number, there were ZERO leftovers which made me all the more thankful for the little bit of extra batter that provided a treat for Mike and I later that week. Please make these, you won’t be sorry!