Spring Omelet with Asparagus and Peas

June 14, 2016 by Laura Messersmith in Cooking

When life picks up its pace and it seems like there isn’t a moment to spare in between packing and unpacking for the next adventure there’s still an important question to answer: what’s for dinner? Lately the answer has been eggs – plain scrambled, fried on avocado toast, and when the planets align to make a trip to the grocery store also this Spring Vegetable Omelet.

Thank the good Lord for a main dish that can be on the table in less than 20 minutes, and still checks all the boxes for fresh, delicious, and healthy. Serve with a slice or two of whole grain – cut into golden toast soldiers if you please – and this could be breakfast, lunch, dinner or any meal in between.

Spring Omelet with Asparagus and Peas (serves 2)

Ingredients:
8 stalks asparagus
1/2 cup English peas, shelled
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons olive oil
5 eggs
3 tablespoons whole milk
1 tablespoon grated parmesan cheese
2 tablespoons minced chives
kosher salt
black pepper

Instructions:
Pre heat the oven to 350 degrees F.

Cut the asparagus spears into 1/2 inch lengths discarding the tough, woody ends. In a medium oven-safe sauté pan (8 or 10 inches), melt the butter and olive oil together. Add the asparagus and peas and cook over medium heat for 3-4 minutes until the asparagus is tender. Season with salt and pepper.

While the vegetables cook, whisk together the eggs and milk in a medium bowl, finely mince the chives, and grate the parmesan cheese.

Using a slotted spoon, remove the vegetables from the pan and set aside leaving the remaining butter and olive oil in the pan. Turn off the heat and pour the eggs into the warm pan. Scatter the parmesan cheese and half the minced chives over the eggs along with a sprinkle of salt and pepper.

Spread the asparagus and peas over the top of the eggs and immediately move the pan to the hot oven. Bake for 7-8 minutes until the eggs are firm at the edges, but the center of the omelet remains soft set.

Use a fish spatula to loosen the omelet from the pan and serve immediately with topped with a sprinkle of the reserved chives.

Inspired by Ina Garten’s Country French Omelet and Saveur Magazine’s Brown Butter Peas and Mint Omelette

Small Kitchen Friendly?
You know it. I used a medium oven-safe sauté pan, small mixing bowl, medium cutting board, chef’s knife, microplane grater, and a fish spatula. That’s it!

Lemon Risotto Carbonara with Green Peas

April 13, 2015 by Laura Messersmith in Cooking

I absolutely loooove risotto and pasta carbonara is one of my all-time favorite things to order when I’m in Italian restaurants. When you think about it there are some parallels – a silky, rich sauce; deceptively simple preparations; classic Italian fare.

I’m not sure exactly when I started thinking about combining the two dishes, but I know that the source of the lemon was a glorious lunch at Isabella’s a few months ago. Lemon gnocchi prepared carbonara style with a crispy poached egg and thickly cut pieces of bacon - heaven! A plan was hatched and I started practicing my risotto and carbonara skills with this dish in mind. Side note: I’m also dying to know how they made that egg so crispy but still soft in the middle….

Purists will surely shake their heads over the addition of lemon and peas to something called carbonara, but I’m banking on the risotto - which has many, many variations - as my cover for taking liberties. This recipe is easily a meal in itself perfect with a little salad and a glass of white wine.

Lemon Risotto Carbonara with Green Peas (serves: 4 entrée portions)

Ingredients:
2 cups Arborio rice
7-8 cups chicken stock
1/4 cup white wine
1/4 cup lemon juice
2 teaspoons lemon zest
1/3 pound slab bacon
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 teaspoons olive oil
3 eggs, beaten
1 cup parmesan cheese, grated
10 ounce package frozen green peas
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Instructions:
Heat the chicken stock in a medium sauce pan until just below a simmer, reduce heat to keep the stock warm, but not boiling.

Meanwhile, dice the slab bacon into 1/4 inch strips and sauté in a large dutch oven over medium-low heat until crispy and browned, 7-10 minutes. Remove the bacon to a paper towel lined plate to drain.

Reduce the heat to low and melt the olive oil and unsalted butter into the remaining bacon fat. Sprinkle the Arborio rice into the dutch oven and stir to coat in the melted butter and olive oil. Cook the rice for 2-3 minutes, stirring occassionally before adding the white wine and lemon juice (zest the lemon before juicing!).

Once the white wine and lemon juice have been absorbed and the pot has been deglazed, add 1 ladle of the hot chicken stock to the rice. Stir until the stock is almost completely absorbed before adding another ladleful. While the rice is cooking, beat the eggs in a small bowl and grate the parmesan cheese.

Continue the process of adding the stock and stirring. The risotto is done when the rice is al dente, about 20-25 minutes, and creamy sauce has formed. The consistency should be thick, but not stiff, almost pourable, but not runny. It’s a fine line!

When the last ladle of chicken stock has been absorbed turn off the heat and stir in the beaten eggs and grated parmesan cheese until well combined. The sauce will thicken slightly and turn a pale yellow.

Finally, while the risotto is still quite warm stir in the frozen peas (no need to defrost) and give it a final seasoning of the lemon zest and black pepper. Serve immediately with a sprinkle of the crispy slab bacon pieces. Enjoy!

Inspired by Isabella’s and written with reference to Risotto Carbonara by Kitchen Sink Diaries and Spaghetti Alla Carbonara by Tyler Florence.

Small Kitchen Friendly?
Yes, even though you will need two pots. I used a 2 quart sauce pan and surprise surprise, my trusty blue 5.5qt Le Creuset French oven. I also needed a small cutting board, chef’s knife, measuring cups, wooden spatula, and microplane grater (excellent for both the cheese and the lemon zest.)

The Verdict:
Carbonara can sometimes be a little much - egg, AND parmesan, AND bacon - so for me the lemon and green peas help balance the richness and reduce my guilt over devouring a healthy portion. The other part I like about cooking this recipe is that while Lemon Risotto Carbonara is fairly easy, there’s just enough fussing (not too much, after all this is practically a one-pot meal) to inspire my inner chef. Cooking risotto takes some practice and if you need additional advice on how to master the technique I’d recommend this great guide on The Kitchn.

Pesto Pasta with Green Peas and Chicken

August 04, 2014 by Laura Messersmith in Cooking

When the mid-summer heat and humidity hit (at least the way they do here in New York) my appetite wanes and little and the thought of eating a hot meal is the furthest thing from my mind. While I want something light and fresh with the flavors of summer I also don’t necessarily want to eat salad 24/7 either.

For me this cold pasta dish hits that sweet spot: a happy medium between the clean bright taste of veggies and the substance of a meal that doesn’t feel like I’m missing something. And, as an extra bonus it uses all that great basil that’s growing like crazy at this time of year!

My starting point (surprise!) was an Ina Garten recipe that I then tinkered with a little bit to lighten it up and add a bit more protein. I’m tempted to call the final product something poetic like ‘Viridian Pasta’ because of its varying shades and multiple green ingredients, but in the interest of being direct I decided to go with this more umm, specific title. I’m open to feedback, though…

Pesto Pasta with Green Peas and Chicken (serves 6-8 generously)

Ingredients:

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 1/2 pounds cellentani pasta (like Barilla)
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 1/2 cups pesto (purchased, or see recipe below)
1 (10-ounce) package frozen chopped spinach, defrosted and squeezed dry
3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 (5.3 oz.) container lemon Greek yogurt (like Chobani)
1/4 cup mascarpone cheese
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan
1 (14 oz.) package frozen baby peas
1/3 cup pine nuts (aka pignoli)
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
3/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3 chicken breasts, bone-in, skin-on

Pesto:

1/4 cup walnuts
1/4 cup pine nuts (aka pignoli)
3 tablespoons chopped garlic (9 cloves)
5 cups fresh basil leaves, packed (1 large bunch)
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 1/2 cups good olive oil
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan

Instructions:

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

Place the chicken breasts on a baking sheet skin side up and rub with a light coating of olive oil. Sprinkle generously with salt and black pepper. Roast in the oven for 35 to 40 minutes, or until cooked through according to a meat thermometer. Set aside until cool enough to handle, then remove the meat from the bones and discard the skin. Cut the chicken into small, ¼ inch dice which should yield 2 to 3 cups of cubed chicken. Side aside and continue to cool.

Meanwhile, cook the cellentani in a large pot of boiling salted water according to the package directions (about 10 to 11 minutes) until the pasta is al dente. In the last minute of cooking toss the frozen peas into the pot to defrost and cook. Drain and toss into a bowl with the olive oil. Cool to room temperature.

While the pasta is cooking, make the pesto according to the directions below.

Next, in the bowl of the food processor, puree the pesto, spinach, and lemon juice. Add the lemon Greek yogurt and mascarpone cheese and puree.

To finish toss the cooled pasta and peas with the pesto sauce, then add the diced chicken, grated Parmesan, pignoli, salt, and pepper. Stir until the ingredients are evenly coated with sauce, season to taste, and serve chilled or at room temperature.

Pesto: (yield: 4 cups)

Place the walnuts, pine nuts, and chopped garlic in the bowl of a food processor fitted with a steel blade. Process for 15 seconds. Add the fresh basil leaves, salt, and pepper. With the processor running, slowly pour the olive oil into the bowl through the feed tube and process until the pesto is thoroughly pureed. Add the Parmesan and puree for a minute.

Important storage note: This will make more pesto than needed for the recipe and exposure to air will turn it an unappetizing brown. So plan to use the extra right away or store the pesto in the refrigerator or freezer in an airtight container with a thin film of olive oil or plastic wrap pressed directly on top to remove air pockets.

Small Kitchen Friendly:

Yes, assuming you have access to a medium-sized food processor. Ours is a 7 cup and it was just right for this recipe, too much smaller and I would have had trouble getting everything to fit. SInce I made the pesto and the sauce one right after the other I didn't even bother to wash the bowl in between steps. I also used one baking sheet, one large bowl (for the cooled pasta & peas and final mixing), one medium bowl (for the diced chicken), a large pot and a colander. Measuring cups, measuring spoons, a chef’s knife, a rubber spatula and one medium cutting board finished the job.

The Verdict:

Mike and I both loved this dinner – the pesto sauce is flavorful without being overpowering and the ‘sneaky’ vegetables and lean proteins make this a recipe that is on the virtuous side but didn’t leave us feel deprived and wishing for a bedtime snack a few hours later. We had this as a main (and only course) but it could easily be a part of a backyard cookout buffet as a side dish too. It makes a ton, so be prepared for leftovers or to halve the quantities.

Spanish Pea Soup with Crispy Ham

June 04, 2014 by Laura Messersmith in Cooking with the Contessa

Ina Garten, aka The Barefoot Contessa, and her cookbooks are already a source of guidance for basic recipes but her show serves as my inspiration for more adventurous culinary efforts. I’ll follow along with an episode of the Barefoot Contessa and choose a recipe to try in my tiny New York kitchen. We’ll see if I can keep up with the Contessa!

Episode: “Food Adventures”

The Set-up: Ina and Jeffrey are on vacation in Napa (jealous) and Ina’s exploring the local food scene while Jeffrey works on his book. I think Jeffrey got the short end of that deal…

The Menu: Deconstructed Lobster Salad, Spanish Pea Soup with Crispy Ham, Viennese Coffee

0:48 – We start off in the kitchen of the Garten’s Napa rental house with Deconstructed Lobster Salad, an idea she got while visiting Swan Oyster Depot in San Francisco. Tyler Florence recommended it and when T.F. tells you to try something, you try it!

1:10 – We get some great scenes of the restaurant in action, but my favorite is a shot of a guy wearing shorts embroidered with lobsters and white athletic socks pulled waaay up. When in Rome?

2:03 – Ina is making the sauce for the Deconstructed Lobster Salad. As she zests the lemon she remarks how fortunate it is that the rental house had a rasp. First, let’s be fair, this place could easily be the West Coast outpost of her own gorgeous kitchen. Second, show of hands: who thinks Ina totally travels with a tiny microplane grater?

3:10 – The sauce is comprised of mayo, lemon zest, capers and fresh dill. Is anyone else obsessed with dill lately? Just me? Okay, cool.

4:30 – Time to plate. Two halved lobsters are arranged on a bed of ice, the sauce goes in a small bowl and celery stalks go in a glass. Slice up a little sourdough bread from Boudin Bakery and she’s done.

5:11 – Now to test it on Jeffrey.... Spoiler alert: he loves it. #supportive. It does look pretty cool, but how far you could take this ‘deconstructed’ thing before people called you out? Like, ‘here are some peanuts, purple grapes, and bread – it’s deconstructed PB&J sandwich! Obviously.’

9:17 – After lunch Ina presents Jeffrey with the most decadent, eleven-layer Torte Au Chocolate she made with Paul Lemieux, Executive Pastry Chef at the Auberge Du Soleil hotel.

10:13 – We flash over to the hotel to see how it’s done. Chef Paul walks us very quickly through making meringue discs. I can’t even find a recipe for this cake online, so I’m definitely not making this at home… sorry friends.

11:49 – Ina and Chef Paul bond over their mutual love of chocolate and hazelnut, and I learn a new Italian word for the combination: gianduja.

13:15 – We get another lighting round ‘how to’ from Chef Paul for a layer he calls ‘chocolate decadence’ (hello!) So far the layers seem to be: meringue, chocolate ganache, hazelnut spread, and chocolate decadence. Two words: face plant.

14:01 – More chefyness ensues with the use of a cocoa powder spray gun to get that matte bakery effect. Ina’s finishes spraying with a flourish – blowing the “smoke” off the end like an old-timey gun fighter. Ina is bad a** y’all.

15:18 – Chef Paul releases the cake from the ring form with a BLOWTORCH (for reals!) and puts on a final edging of ground hazelnuts and a little chocolate plaque with the Auberge logo on top. This cake really looks amazing.

19:22 – Next, Ina is at a food truck market called Off the Grid. Someone who lives in San Francisco please visit this for me!

20:10 – While she’s checking out amazing street food Jeffrey’s at home with a bowl of Spanish Pea Soup with Crispy Ham she made for him. This does not seem like a fair trade, but she’s planning to bring him dessert, so that’s something.

21:18 – She says this is one of the easiest recipes she makes and I believe it – it all happens in one pot and seems to take about 10 total minutes of cooking. That dessert better be good, young lady.

22:44 – Like any smart food truck patron she makes a lap before committing. Side Note: I would be so, so psyched if I spotted Ina Garten at a food festival. First up she tries Pepper Jack Mac & Cheese and then checks out an empanada truck. Before she even orders I know she’ll get the Parisienne – aka: Gruyere and ham - aaaand I’m right. Two points for Gryffindor!

23:09 – Back at the rental house Jeffrey is having his dinner. Ina left the most hilarious instructions for him. This is almost verbatim: reheat soup, put ham on top, drizzle with olive oil, love my soup. Ahahahaha. With Jeffrey it’s best to leave nothing to chance.

27:23 – Ina is back from her food truck adventure, and since she feels guilty for heartlessly abandoning her husband to a dish of pea soup she decides to make Viennese Coffee as a special treat to go with the salted caramel cupcakes she brought home.

28:34 – This concoction A. looks amazing. B. appears to be a hybrid of an ice cream float and affogato. C. kinda makes up for that spousal abandonment earlier.

29:44 – Out on the porch for a little dessert with Jeffrey. Ina, you’re forgiven!

Final Thoughts:

Food tourism seems like a fantastic way to organize a vacation – remind me of that when it’s time to plan our next trip!

I love food trucks and festivals, but choosing what to eat is tricky. I wonder how Ina decided?

I’d like to ‘turn up the volume’ on Ina’s Viennese Coffee and make it with coffee ice cream instead of vanilla. Hello, caffeine buzz.

Lessons Learned:

Since the eleven layer cake required advanced pastry techniques (well out of my league) and the other dishes didn’t involve a ton of cooking I decided to make the Spanish Pea Soup with Crispy Ham. We need to eat more vegetables and this recipe really is incredibly simple with a very, very short ingredient list.

One note on seasoning - keep an eye on the salt. I served the soup with crispy pancetta and then added a sprinkle of parmesan cheese for interest, but the combination pushed the flavor over the edge into “too salty” territory. Easily remedied with a little more chicken stock or some more unseasoned peas, but something to watch for.

Small Kitchen Friendly?

Absolutely. I used an enameled dutch oven, a blender, a medium bowl, and one small cutting board. Ina uses an immersion blender in the episode, but I only have a regular one so I needed to puree in batches, hence the bowl. For utensils I used a chef’s knife, wooden spoon, rubber spatula, large ladle, a liquid measuring cup and measuring spoons.

The Verdict:

Mike and I had the Spanish Pea Soup with Crispy Ham for dinner earlier this week on what turned out to be a pretty warm night. It’s actually a heartier soup than you might imagine. I think adding a few fresh herbs (mint maybe?), a squeeze of lemon, or possibly even serving it chilled would make it a better summer dish. I’m planning to make it again when it’s cooler and stir some cubes of fresh mozzarella into each bowl – yum.