Smoked Salmon & Cucumber Tartines with Herbed Cream Cheese

September 15, 2014 by Laura Messersmith in Cooking

Smoked Salmon and Cucumber Tartines with Herbed Cream Cheese | Image: Laura Messersmith — **Smoked Salmon and Cucumber Tartines with Herbed Cream Cheese** | Image: *Laura Messersmith*

After my visit to Barney Greengrass last week I wanted to make a recipe that would incorporate the gorgeous eastern nova salmon I tasted and make it the star of the dish. The salmon itself is very tender, gently smoky and a little on the salty side in flavor and since it’s already cooked thanks to the smoking process it struck me as more of a pairing choice. I knew I wanted to do something with herbs (Ina Garten was helpful there) and with a recommendation from one of the Barney Greengrass to use cucumber I was on my way in creating my version of a classic bagel shop creation.

I love the deep comforting flavor of the toasted multi-grain bread with the smoothness of the herbed cream cheese – do let this chill for a bit after mixing the herbs in, it definitely grows in power – and the thin slices of cucumber help balance out the saltiness of the salmon, while still allowing it to shine.

I’m also brainstorming other combinations - with pickled red onion or maybe capers? Something to think about for future incarnations as I continue to explore the flavors and ingredients found in New York’s Jewish delis!

Smoked Salmon and Cucumber Tartines with Herbed Cream Cheese (serves 4)

Ingredients:

4 ounces plain cream cheese, room temperature
2 teaspoons minced scallions
2 teaspoons minced fresh dill
2 teaspoons minced fresh parsley
pinch kosher salt
12 thin slices seedless cucumber, also called English cucumbers
4 slices smoked salmon
4 slices dark, multi-grain bread

Instructions:

Allow the plain cream cheese to come to room temperature, then place in a medium mixing bowl. Mince the scallions, fresh dill, and fresh parsley. Using a fork stir the minced herbs and kosher salt into the cream cheese until evenly combined. Place the seasoned cream cheese into a small ramekin and allow to chill in the refrigerator for 30 minutes to an hour to allow the flavors to develop and the cream cheese to firm up.

Slice 4 pieces of dark, multi-grain bread (pumpernickel or seedless rye would be good too) about 1/3 inch thick. Toast until lightly browned. Slice the seedless cucumber as thinly as possible.

Spread each piece of toasted bread with a generous layer of the chilled cream cheese, then arrange 2-3 pieces of cucumber on top of the cream cheese, and finish with a slice of smoked salmon. Serve immediately.

Small Kitchen Friendly?

Yes, definitely. I used a medium cutting board, one medium mixing bowl, a chef’s knife, and a bread knife along with measuring spoons and a rubber spatula. Finally, I used a regular home toaster, but a sheet pan in the oven would work too for making the tartines.

The Verdict

The salmon and cream cheese are delicious together and surprisingly filling, so don’t be fooled by the small(ish) portion suggestion. Mike and I each had one as an early evening snack and then discovered that we weren’t really hungry for dinner later. I think this could be a great option for a cocktail party when I want to serve something a little more substantial than crudité, but less than a full meal.

Croque Monsieur a la Aquitaine

September 09, 2014 by Laura Messersmith in Cooking

A few years ago when Mike and I were back in Boston I tried a French bistro classic for the first time. We had the afternoon to ourselves while we waited for our friends to finish their work days and decided a leisurely lunch at Aquitaine in the South End was the best way to pass the time. That lunch stands out in my memory for the relaxed pace of the day and the deliciousness of the food – beautifully smooth tomato bisque, a bright vinegary salad, and the star: a crisp, buttery Croque Monsieur.

Since then I’ve ordered the CM on other occasions and discovered - somewhat to my disappointment - that what I believed to be the ‘traditional’ style was actually Aquitaine’s own method. Research on the semi-reliable internet tells me that Aquitaine dips their CMs in a little egg and then cooks the sandwiches underneath a hot brick for an crisp exterior and a slightly flattened sandwich. Instead of cheese melted over the top; all the delicious Gruyere and its accompanying ham are contained in the crunchy bread for something more akin to a panini by way of a Monte Cristo sandwich. Photo evidence here.

After some experimenting (blame my need for a really good, crunchy bread for the lateness of this post) I give you my tribute to the flavors and textures I remember from that afternoon when I learned that grilled cheese could be grown-up and elegant.

I love serving this toasty sandwich with an extra schmere of whole grain mustard and a bunch of cool green grapes or a small pile of salad dressed with the same vinaigrette that goes in the spread. Maybe a glass of sauvignon blanc? Instant bistro.

Croque Monsieur a la Aquitaine (serves 4)

4 teaspoons whole grain mustard, like Maille Old Style
4 teaspoons creamy vinaigrette (see recipe below)
1/2 pound gruyere cheese, finely grated
4 thin slices Virginia ham
8 slices country bread, about 1/3" thick
4 tablespoons softened butter

In a small bowl, stir together the whole grain mustard and the creamy vinaigrette (recipe below) until well mixed. Spread one side the bread with a thin layer (about 1/2 teaspoon) of the mustard mixture and the other side with a thin layer of the softened butter.

Arrange the bread on a plate, buttered sides down. Divide half the grated gruyere among four slices of bread and top the cheese with a piece of Virginia ham. Sprinkle the other half of the gruyere over the ham - again, dividing equally among the sandwiches - and top with the remaining slices of bread, mustard-side in.

Meanwhile, heat a large cast iron skillet over medium-high heat. Press the sandwiches down gently to keep the halves together and place in the hot skillet.

Cook 3-4 minutes on each side or until golden brown. Resist the urge to crowd the pan. Repeat the procedure with remaining sandwiches keeping the first batch warm in a 200 degree oven.

Cut in half with a serrated knife and serve hot.

Creamy Vinaigrette (adapted from Ina Garten)

Ingredients:

2 tablespoons cider vinegar
2 tablespoons Champagne vinegar
Pinch sugar
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 large egg yolk
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Instructions:

In the bowl of a food processor fitted with a steel blade combine the vinegars, sugar, salt, pepper, and egg yolk and blend for 1 minute. With the motor running, slowly pour the olive oil through the feed tube until the vinaigrette is thickened. Season, to taste. The dressing will last in the refrigerator for 2-3 weeks, so wash out an old jam jar and save it!

Small Kitchen Friendly?

Oui. I used a 4 cup food processor, 10” cast iron skillet, microplane grater, liquid measuring cup and measuring spoons, and a small bowl along with a medium sized cutting board and serrated knife. A metal spatula will make life easy for turning and pressing the sandwiches.

The Verdict

The extra effort to get the bread crunchy and toasted was so worth it. The gruyere is nutty and rich, while the ham adds a little bulk and saltiness – add in the tang of the vinaigrette & mustard mix and you’re in business. This is definitely a “grilled cheese” that I’d serve to guests for a casual lunch and it’s perfect a day when Mike and I need a little spoiling and only fancy sandwiches will do.

Farm Stand Corn Chowder with Crab

August 25, 2014 by Laura Messersmith in Cooking

Remember how I was threatening to make soup one of these chilly nights? Well after the weather stayed cool and my mother-in-law, Lucy, brought us some corn on the cob from her local farm stand my mission was clear: Corn Chowder. I suppose I could have just boiled it, rolled the ears in butter and sprinkled them with salt and pepper, but where’s the challenge in that?

I did a little snooping around online for guidance and found help from both Jamie Oliver and Martha Stewart. I liked how light Jamie was on the cream and the idea of using Corn Stock from Martha’s recipe struck me as a particularly chef-y thing to do without requiring a culinary degree to achieve. I admit that the prep and cooking time mean this isn’t a weeknight meal, but all the more reason to make a big batch on the weekend and reheat a day or so later – it definitely holds up.

Chowder can sometimes be overly thick with too much flour or cream to seem appropriate for summer. The results of this recipe are the exact opposite without losing that deep flavor and comforting texture that make it chowder and not just soup. I attribute that to two factors: 1. Fresh corn, 2. The corn stock. I know it’s tempting to just grab a bag from the freezer and substitute chicken stock, but having traveled that road before I think this is the better way.

Farm Stand Corn Chowder with Crab (serves 4-6)

Chowder Ingredients:

3 cups (4 ears) fresh corn on the cob
2 cups corn stock
2 cups (3 medium) white potatoes, peeled and 1/3” diced
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1/4 cup minced shallots
3/4 cup heavy cream
3/4 cup skim milk
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
3/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3/4 teaspoon minced fresh thyme
8 ounces fresh, lump crab meat
fresh chives, for garnish

Corn Stock Ingredients:

4 fresh corn cobs, kernels removed
8 cups water
1 yellow onion, peeled and quartered

Directions

Shuck the ears of corn and remove as much silk as possible. Using a chef’s knife, cut a small slice from the stalk end of the ear to make a flat base. Rest the flat end against the cutting board and cut the corn kernels from the cob. Set aside the kernels and place the cobs in a large dutch oven. Peel and quarter one yellow onion and add to the dutch oven.

Cover the cobs and onion with 8 cups water and bring to a boil. Once the water is boiling, reduce the heat and simmer, covered for 45 minutes. Then remove the lid and continue to simmer until the stock is reduced to about 2 cups. Remove the corn cobs and onion quarters from the stock and discard. Pour the corn stock into a heat-proof measuring cup and set aside.

Place the dutch oven back on the stove top over low heat. Melt together the olive oil and butter. Add the mince shallot and sauté for 1 minute. Next add the peeled, diced white potatoes to the pot and stir to coat with butter and shallots. Cook for 2-3 minutes, then season with 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt and 3/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper.

Add the corn kernels and 2 cups of corn stock to the potatoes and shallots and increase the heat to bring to a low boil. Cook for 5-6 minutes or until the potatoes begin to soften in the middle – check them with a fork or butter knife for tenderness.

Reduce the heat to low and stir in the minced, fresh thyme, heavy cream and skim milk. Simmer until the potatoes are fully cooked, but still al dente.

Next, use a ladle to measure out 1 cup of the chowder into a blender and puree until smooth. Return the pureed soup to the pot and stir in to thicken the chowder.

Serve hot in and top each portion with 1-2 tablespoons chilled, fresh crab meat. Snip the chives with kitchen shears or mince with a chef’s knife and sprinkle a pinch over each bowl of soup.

Small Kitchen Friendly:

Yes, absolutely. I used a large dutch oven, a large cutting board, a medium bowl (to reserve the corn kernels in), a 2 cup measuring cup, and a blender. For tools I needed one wooden spoon, one chef’s knife, measuring spoons, a ladle and a dinner fork.

The Verdict: It probably sounds like I’m tooting my own horn, but I was genuinely delighted by how well this turned out. As proof; when extras languish in the fridge I know it’s only a so-so meal. With the Farm Stand Corn Chowder Mike and I had to negotiate the distribution of the leftovers lest one of us miss out on having a second taste. The crab is a great compliment to the chowder and we liked the contrast of temperatures and textures.

Lastly, this recipe is gluten free and also up until that finishing dollop of crab vegetarian too, but still delicious and satisfying. It wasn’t necessarily my goal, but it is good news if you’re cooking for anyone who does have concerns or diet restrictions in that realm. Something everyone can enjoy!

Farmers Market Tomato and Ricotta Tart

August 18, 2014 by Laura Messersmith in Cooking

These days I’m pretty much always thinking about cooking – what to make next, what are we in the mood for, what new skill should I attempt, can I make that restaurant dish at home? After a deluge of inspiration - the Heirloom Tomato Tart with Ricotta and Basil from Williams-Sonoma, which was preceded in my Pinterest feed by this beautiful pin of Tomatoes on Garlic Toast. Then, the current issue of Bon Appétit which features a beautiful dish by Yotam Ottolenghi, and finally my brand new copy of the Smitten Kitchen cookbook arrived. I’ll give you one guess on the image gracing the cover: Tomato Scallion Shortcakes with Whipped Goat Cheese (pg. 65).

I decided to take this deluge of brightly colored tomato-based photos as a sign. Perhaps I should get with the program and make something that highlights the beautiful tomatoes in season right at this very moment? Worse culinary ideas have happened and with all those experts to guide me I couldn’t make too big a mess.

I knew I wanted this recipe to be a light and summery tart, featuring tomatoes (and cheese). I referred to both the W-S recipe and to the crust from the Smitten Kitchen Cookbook recipe for Wild Mushroom Tart (pg. 95), but then went on to make something new – partially out of necessity (like when the pantry is missing cornmeal and uncooked polenta is substituted) and partially to satisfy my own taste.

The ‘fanciness’ of the presentation is deceptive, so I hope you won’t be intimidated like I was when I first saw W-S’s tart. But, if you’re a perfectionist or feeling stressed here’s a tip: after the tomatoes are sliced practice layering on the cutting board or a piece of foil before trying to arrange them on the tart. It helped my confidence and reassured me that even if I didn’t make a precise, mathematically balanced kaleidoscope of slices it would still look lovely. And, in the end, I think it did, so there’s that.

I hope you try this soon while the tomatoes in the farmers market (or grocery store) are still amazing – I’d love to see your results!

Farmers Market Tomato and Ricotta Tart (serves 6-8)

Tart Shell Ingredients:

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons all purpose flour
1/4 cup polenta or finely ground cornmeal
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
6 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, diced in small cubes
1 tablespoon room temperature butter
1 large egg

Filling Ingredients:

1 3/4 cups whole milk ricotta cheese
2 1/2 ounces plain goat cheese, softened
1 cup parmesan cheese, finely grated
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/3 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3/4 teaspoon minced fresh thyme
1 pint small-medium heirloom, grape or cherry tomatoes, washed and dried

Directions

In a medium bowl mix together flour, polenta or cornmeal, and salt. Using a pastry cutter or fork work the diced butter into the dry ingredients until the butter is in very small pieces and the mixture is just starting to come together. Add the egg and mix in with a fork until the dough forms a rough ball. The mixture will be fairly dry, resembling shortbread.

Turn the dough into an ungreased 9” tart pan with a removable bottom and using the floured, flat side of a measuring cup press into the bottom and along the sides of the pan in an even layer. Even the edges with a butter knife, or by flattening with the measuring cup.

Place the unbaked tart shell in the freezer for 20-30 minutes until the dough is firm to the touch. While tart shell is chilling, preheat the oven to 375 degrees F.

Remove the shell from freezer and place on a baking sheet. Using a brush or clean hands, spread the room temperature butter on a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to cover the tart shell with some overhang. Smooth the buttered side of the foil along the bottom of the tart shell and up the sides.

Bake the foil covered tart shell for 10 minutes. Carefully remove the foil from the shell and using a fork, prick the bottom of the shell – this will allow any air to release. Replace the uncovered tart shell in the oven and bake for an additional 5 to 8 minutes until it is lightly golden and crisp. Set tart shell aside on a baking rack and allow to cool completely.

While the tart shell is cooling, assemble the ricotta filling. In a medium bowl, whisk together the ricotta and softened goat cheese until smooth, then stir in the finely grated parmesan, kosher salt, pepper, and fresh thyme. Cut the tomatoes – a serrated knife will work best – into 1/4 to 1/8” slices.

Once the tart shell is completely cooled, spoon the ricotta mixture into the shell and smooth with a spatula or knife. Layer the sliced tomatoes on top of the cheese in any pattern or arrangement you like – this is a moment to be creative! Sprinkle with a few fresh thyme leaves, salt and pepper.

Serve just as it is or with a spoonful of pesto sauce.

Small Kitchen Friendly:

Yes, definitely. I used one medium bowl (used twice and washed between the dough and filling steps), one 9” tart pan, one baking sheet, a pastry cutter, one medium cutting board, one serrated knife, a microplane grater, a rubber spatula, and measuring cups and spoons. A butter knife and a dinner fork round out the tools.

The Verdict:

Mike and I had this on sunny, August Sunday afternoon and were really happy with the taste of these classic flavor combinations presented in a slightly different format. Mike particularly liked the flavor and texture of the polenta/cornmeal crust as a contrast to the creaminess of the cheese filling. And, since I had a little pesto in the freezer from a few weeks ago I defrosted it and we drizzled a little on top – yum. A success I’d say, since we’re already brainstorming variations with other seasonal vegetables. I foresee something involving caramelized onions in our future…