In honor of Labor Day, long weekends, and the un-official beginning of fall in New York Mike and I have been celebrating with dinners out in West Village and Tribeca restaurants that were blissfully empty – special shout-out to Joseph Leonard and the 70s dance party! But today it’s been all about lots of coffee, a leisurely breakfast at home and some reading I’ve been meaning to catch up on. I hope you had a great weekend too – see you Wednesday for some Cooking with the Contessa!
Gotham West Market NYC | Image: Laura Messersmith
It seemed appropriate for the beginning of the Labor Day weekend to do one last – for now! - post on my search for the Best Mint Chocolate Chip Ice Cream. So far I haven’t found the “perfect cone” but I did come close and while the official search is over I will remain alert for new contenders for the throne.
For this chapter I stopped by West Gotham Market in Hell’s Kitchen to check out the pop-up location of Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams and try their take on a refreshing mint ice cream. Here’s the scoop from Jeni’s on Backyard Mint:
“Peppermint has a strong, sweet scent, and it also has a high concentration of oils, which are essential in flavoring ice cream. When you roughly chop fresh peppermint the way we do, the leaves are bruised, which opens the oil pockets. In our world, bruising is just the thing to do when you’re cold-soaking peppermint in cream. Soaked overnight, the peppermint scent is locked into the cream, ultimately giving Backyard Mint ice cream it’s cool, subtly sweet flavor and remarkably refreshing herb-garden finish.”
Jeni's Splendid Ice Creams Pop-up NYC | Image: Laura Messersmith
The Scientific Part:
The rules are the same and I’m judging based the contenders for Mint Chocolate champ on five criteria - Flavor and then the four “Cs” - Color, Creaminess, Chips, and Charm.
In my ideal world I want a dash of kitsch with my high-quality ingredients, so my preference is for pale green ice cream with intense mint flavor and deep dark chocolate shavings. Yes, I realize that this doesn’t make them ‘chips’ per se, but then they’re more smoothly incorporated with the ice cream. I’m giving extra points for a whimsical setting or special experience – that’s the Charm part.
Special Comment on the Score: Normally I just let the numbers tell the tale, but in this case I want to point out that the Backyard Mint is mint only, not mint chip - which makes me a little sad on Jeni’s behalf because I actually think this might be the best ice cream I had all summer, but it scores poorly due to the color and lack of chips. Rules are rules even if it’s tough to be objective, so here’s my recommendation: buy the Backyard Mint and stir in some chocolate shavings for the ultimate scoop.
Backyard Mint by Jeni's Splendid Ice Cream | Image: Laura Messersmith
Jeni’s Score:
Flavor – beautifully, clean clear mint flavor that truly tastes like the herb (5 of 5)
Color – peppermint pattie white, oh dear (1 of 5)
Creaminess – gorgeously smooth and creamy, love! (5 of 5)
Chips – alas, there were no chips at all, but then this was just Mint ice cream (1 of 5)
Charm – Gotham West Market isn’t exactly charming, so much as ‘cool’ but it does have great outdoor space (4 of 5)
Total Score: 16/25
Jeni's Splendid Ice Creams Pop-up NYC | Image: Laura Messersmith
Current Rankings:
For folks following these adventures at home, here are the current rankings of the ice creams and shops I’ve visited so far
1. The Lands at Hillside Farms: 22/25
2. Graham’s Fine Chocolate & Ice Cream: 21/25
3. Ample Hills Creamery: 20/25
4. Black Dog Gelato: 19/25
5. Van Leeuwen Artisan Ice Cream: 18/25
6. Bobtail Ice Cream: 17/25
7. Jeni’s Splendid Ice Cream: 16/25
8. Cayuga Lake Creamery: 16/25
9. Sundaes and Cones: 11/25
Warm Goat Cheese Salad | Image: Laura Messersmith
As inspiration for more adventurous culinary efforts I’m following along with Ina Garten, aka The Barefoot Contessa, in my tiny New York kitchen. Let’s see if I can keep up with the Contessa!
Episode: “Girls Day Out”
The Set-up: Ina decides that she and her friends Donna and Antonia need a day off for some lady activities like eating lunch, chatting, and shopping.
The Menu: Sour Cream Coffee Cake, Sunrise Smoothie, Warm Goat Cheese Salad, Grilled Peaches with Amaretti
0:42 – The ladies (ahem, Girls) are arriving for breakfast so Ina’s making Sour Cream Coffee Cake. I like how this day off is shaping up already.
1:51 – Ina is sifting cake flour and honestly I have no idea what the difference is between flours – all purpose, self rising, say what?
2:13 – She says that cake flour can be replicated by combining all purpose flour with cornstarch. This will require some nerding out, aka research.
3:35 – As the mixer whirs away Ina mentions that the key differences between cooking - “throw everything in a pan” - and baking - “use just the right ingredient and measure exactly.” I feel like there’s a whole philosophy on people here…
3:59 – Research topic number two: sour cream. It’s the magic ingredient in this cake and in our traditional birthday cake, but I have no idea why?
5:07 – I’m glad to see that Ina is also sort of a messy cook. Honestly, that’s the hardest part about cooking in a small space – I run out of clean countertop real estate really fast!
6:16 – Since I’m in the mood for scientific discovery I had to Google the reason for the little prongs/feet on tube pans and learned that they’re for Angel Food cakes which need to cool upside down to keep their fluffy volume. File that one away for your next trivia night.
10:22 – The Sour Cream Coffee Cake is out of the oven and the “Things Are Afoot” music is playing – with good reason, that cake looks so good.
11:15 – I was right; things are afoot in the form of a Maple Drizzle addition to the cake. Yum. Points for realism as Ina adjusts the consistency of her glaze – it takes me about 4 rounds of adding powdered sugar, then more liquid, etc., etc.
11:58 – Time to make Grilled Peaches with Amaretti and I think know what’s going on my new cast iron grill pan next!
12:23 – So here’s my question: how did Ina get the pits out of the peaches without a ridiculous tussle? I always have the worst time with that step, but hers look perfect.
13:04 – This dessert looks amazing – peaches + rum + amaretto + vanilla sugar.
14:46 – Now for the Sunrise Smoothies and Ina is sneaking in raspberry sorbet among the strawberries and mango as the thickener. I know my smoothie in-take would increase if they contained more sorbet.
15:17 – These smoothies are the most gorgeous shade of orange – even without the sorbet I want one.
15:43 – We get a brief interlude in the garden over breakfast and then it’s time for shopping! PS: What time did Ina get up that she has three recipes done before noon?
19:50 – Ina and her friends shop and then she heads home to make lunch, apparently without buying anything, although she does try on a fetching hat.
20:11 – Warm Goat Cheese Salad is next and Ina’s MacGyver-ing the slices of goat cheese with a piece of dental floss. Tricky.
21:25 – After the goat cheese slices have been dipped in egg whites and breaded she recommends chilling them, I assume to help the coating to set?
22:19 – Apparently the inspiration for this salad is one Ina and Jeffrey had at a café in Paris. I’m 100% on board with trying to recreate great restaurant meals.
23:48 – Goat cheese is sautéing and the breading looks lovely and golden in the pan.
27:52 – The “Getting Things Done” music is on as Ina assembles lunch. Mesclun mix meets vinaigrette, goat cheese rounds nestle into the salad leaves.
28:10 – We retire to the garden to have lunch and Ina makes a shocking remark about “not being crazy about goat cheese” except when it’s warm – this is one place where we differ. Bring on the goat cheese!
29:34 – Back inside to put the finishing touches on the Grilled Peaches with Amaretti and I had a moment of clarity: this is basically a really stripped down crumble. Think about that for a minute – cooked fruit, crumbled cookie topping, a dollop of cream? Brilliant work.
Final Thoughts:
I’m pretty sure I’ve said this before, but I’m serious this time - I really want to make vanilla sugar!
The idea of lightly breading and frying cheese has me considering what other cheeses should be treated this way. Cheddar? Mozzarella? Smoked gouda?
The only way Ina’s girls day could get better is with a splash of champagne with lunch instead of Pellegrino.
Warm Goat Cheese Salad | Image: Laura Messersmith
Lessons Learned:
Since I’m still trying to master pan-frying breaded things and since I have literally never separated an egg (shocking I know) I decided that the Warm Goat Cheese Salad would be my assignment for the week since it involves both. I’m happy to say that I think I’m starting to get the hang of it! I managed to resist crowding the pan – always a tough one - and instead cooked the rounds in batches, which did result in a nice, crispy golden crust.
I do think that chilling the goat cheese rounds after they’ve been breaded makes a difference – something about the contrast of temperatures and letting the coating set up a little is a formula for success.
One little note on the ‘fresh breadcrumbs’ since the recipe doesn’t specify: I’d estimate 1 slice of plain white sandwich bread for every 2-3 goat cheese rounds planned. And, I’d definitely cut off the crusts before putting the pieces in the food processor to help with consistency of the texture, and finally they should be quite finely ground. Mine were a little on the large side, but if you’re skipping that step I bet panko crumbs (not regular breadcrumbs) would work pretty well too.
Warm Goat Cheese Salad | Image: Laura Messersmith
Small Kitchen Friendly?
Yes, assuming a medium or large food processor is available. I used one medium sauté pan, a small cutting board, a small paring knife, a 4 cup food processor (washed in between the breadcrumbs and dressing steps), a small bowl, and two dinner plates. I also used a liquid measuring cup and measuring spoons.
For some reason we only have mint dental floss and since I didn’t want the goat cheese to taste like toothpaste I had to come up with another way of slicing the goat cheese neatly. My solution: chill the log of cheese in the freezer for 10-15 minutes until it’s firm, but not frozen solid, and then use a sharp knife to cut into pieces. Works like a charm.
The Verdict:
I made Warm Goat Cheese Salad for myself on a night when Mike was on a work trip since a salad with just a few pieces of goat cheese - warm or not - isn’t likely to count as dinner in his book. For me this recipe is perfect for that kind of night – it’s special enough that I felt a little pampered, (I guess fancy salad with homemade dressing does that for me? Oh dear.) but simple enough that I didn’t wonder why I was bothering and just order pizza. I would definitely make this again either just for me, or as an appetizer before a main course.
Warm Goat Cheese Salad | Image: Laura Messersmith
Farm Stand Corn Chowder with Crab | Image: Laura Messersmith
Remember how I was threatening to make soup one of these chilly nights? Well after the weather stayed cool and my mother-in-law, Lucy, brought us some corn on the cob from her local farm stand my mission was clear: Corn Chowder. I suppose I could have just boiled it, rolled the ears in butter and sprinkled them with salt and pepper, but where’s the challenge in that?
I did a little snooping around online for guidance and found help from both Jamie Oliver and Martha Stewart. I liked how light Jamie was on the cream and the idea of using Corn Stock from Martha’s recipe struck me as a particularly chef-y thing to do without requiring a culinary degree to achieve. I admit that the prep and cooking time mean this isn’t a weeknight meal, but all the more reason to make a big batch on the weekend and reheat a day or so later – it definitely holds up.
Chowder can sometimes be overly thick with too much flour or cream to seem appropriate for summer. The results of this recipe are the exact opposite without losing that deep flavor and comforting texture that make it chowder and not just soup. I attribute that to two factors: 1. Fresh corn, 2. The corn stock. I know it’s tempting to just grab a bag from the freezer and substitute chicken stock, but having traveled that road before I think this is the better way.
Farm Stand Corn Chowder with Crab | Image: Laura Messersmith
Chowder Ingredients:
3 cups (4 ears) fresh corn on the cob
2 cups corn stock
2 cups (3 medium) white potatoes, peeled and 1/3” diced
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1/4 cup minced shallots
3/4 cup heavy cream
3/4 cup skim milk
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
3/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3/4 teaspoon minced fresh thyme
8 ounces fresh, lump crab meat
fresh chives, for garnish
Corn Stock Ingredients:
4 fresh corn cobs, kernels removed
8 cups water
1 yellow onion, peeled and quartered
Directions
Shuck the ears of corn and remove as much silk as possible. Using a chef’s knife, cut a small slice from the stalk end of the ear to make a flat base. Rest the flat end against the cutting board and cut the corn kernels from the cob. Set aside the kernels and place the cobs in a large dutch oven. Peel and quarter one yellow onion and add to the dutch oven.
Cover the cobs and onion with 8 cups water and bring to a boil. Once the water is boiling, reduce the heat and simmer, covered for 45 minutes. Then remove the lid and continue to simmer until the stock is reduced to about 2 cups. Remove the corn cobs and onion quarters from the stock and discard. Pour the corn stock into a heat-proof measuring cup and set aside.
Place the dutch oven back on the stove top over low heat. Melt together the olive oil and butter. Add the mince shallot and sauté for 1 minute. Next add the peeled, diced white potatoes to the pot and stir to coat with butter and shallots. Cook for 2-3 minutes, then season with 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt and 3/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper.
Add the corn kernels and 2 cups of corn stock to the potatoes and shallots and increase the heat to bring to a low boil. Cook for 5-6 minutes or until the potatoes begin to soften in the middle – check them with a fork or butter knife for tenderness.
Reduce the heat to low and stir in the minced, fresh thyme, heavy cream and skim milk. Simmer until the potatoes are fully cooked, but still al dente.
Next, use a ladle to measure out 1 cup of the chowder into a blender and puree until smooth. Return the pureed soup to the pot and stir in to thicken the chowder.
Serve hot in and top each portion with 1-2 tablespoons chilled, fresh crab meat. Snip the chives with kitchen shears or mince with a chef’s knife and sprinkle a pinch over each bowl of soup.
Farm Stand Corn Chowder with Crab | Image: Laura Messersmith
Small Kitchen Friendly:
Yes, absolutely. I used a large dutch oven, a large cutting board, a medium bowl (to reserve the corn kernels in), a 2 cup measuring cup, and a blender. For tools I needed one wooden spoon, one chef’s knife, measuring spoons, a ladle and a dinner fork.
The Verdict: It probably sounds like I’m tooting my own horn, but I was genuinely delighted by how well this turned out. As proof; when extras languish in the fridge I know it’s only a so-so meal. With the Farm Stand Corn Chowder Mike and I had to negotiate the distribution of the leftovers lest one of us miss out on having a second taste. The crab is a great compliment to the chowder and we liked the contrast of temperatures and textures.
Lastly, this recipe is gluten free and also up until that finishing dollop of crab vegetarian too, but still delicious and satisfying. It wasn’t necessarily my goal, but it is good news if you’re cooking for anyone who does have concerns or diet restrictions in that realm. Something everyone can enjoy!
Farm Stand Corn Chowder with Crab | Image: Laura Messersmith