Scouting: Ottomanelli Bros.

Ottomanelli Bros. Butcher | Image: Laura Messersmith

Ottomanelli Bros. Butcher | Image: Laura Messersmith

Around the Messersmith household we like our birthdays low-key, but meaningful. No giant surprise parties, or blow-out trips – just a quiet dinner of favorite dishes, followed by a chocolate cake that only makes an appearance when it’s sure to be decorated with candles.

Since Mike’s birthday is first up (mine follows twelve days later) it’s my responsibility to see to the trimmings, and since nothing says “I love you” to my wonderful husband quite like red meat I set out to find a place to procure some steaks.

Ottomanelli Bros. Butcher | Image: Laura Messersmith

Ottomanelli Bros. Butcher | Image: Laura Messersmith

Research led me to Ottomanelli's on York Avenue, a family-owned and operated butcher shop. According to their site, members of the Ottomanelli family have been in the butchering business since 1900 and if the small brass chart of a cow placed just outside the shop’s front door is any indication they take their meat seriously.

Ottomanelli Bros. Butcher | Image: Laura Messersmith

Ottomanelli Bros. Butcher | Image: Laura Messersmith

I was on the hunt for a fairly standard cut – filet of beef – but I could have picked up NY Strip, Cornish game hens, or ground turkey in addition to the variety of sandwiches and charcuterie available. The two filets I bought were carefully measured and lightly trimmed before being carefully wrapped and labeled for my trip back across the park.

Ottomanelli Bros. Butcher | Image: Laura Messersmith

Ottomanelli Bros. Butcher | Image: Laura Messersmith

Tonight’s menu, thanks to the Ottomanellis: steak au poivre with balsamic roasted brussels sprouts. I think that will get another year off to the right kind of start – don’t you? What are your birthday traditions? Any special dishes that make the day a little brighter?

Ottomanelli Bros. Butcher | Image: Laura Messersmith

Ottomanelli Bros. Butcher | Image: Laura Messersmith

Ham and Cheese in Puff Pastry

Ham and Cheese in Puff Pastry | Image: Laura Messersmith

Ham and Cheese in Puff Pastry | Image: Laura Messersmith

As inspiration for more adventurous culinary efforts I’m following along with Ina Garten, aka The Barefoot Contessa, in my tiny New York kitchen. Let’s see if I can keep up with the Contessa!

Episode: “Cocktail Hour”

The Set-up: Ina is helping her friend Jack navigate the rocky shoals of the cocktail party.

The Menu: Blue Cheese and Walnut Crackers, Roasted Shrimp Cocktail, Ham and Cheese in Puff Pastry

0:29 – Ina’s cocktail party food Pro Tip #1: Make three, assemble three. Seriously, why do I think I need to make everything or it’s somehow cheating?

1:45 – First recipe on tap: Blue Cheese and Walnut Crackers – which Ina says can be made way in advance.

2:13 – Pro Tip #2: Always use the correct measuring cups for the ingredient – dry for dry, wet for wet.

3:20 – Ina mentions that she first tried this recipe with the walnuts mixed in to the dough, but that it didn’t work well so she rolled them into an exterior crust. I’d love to hear about more Barefoot Contessa misfires – not to gloat, but to learn!

4:34 – Ina’s right - thanks to the blue cheese this dough does look bizarre and vaguely grey? Hmmm.

5:07 – As Ina does her “slice and bake” technique with the crackers she gives us Pro Tip #3: using the blade of the knife like a saw, rather than pressing straight down, prevents squishing the dough.

6:16 – Now to the question on everyone’s mind – how much to serve? Ina says three to four pieces per person, assuming your serving six different items. I suppose that means if you have ten guests it’s 6 x 3 x 10? Whoa.

9:22 – Next up, Ham and Cheese in Puff Pastry and as far as I can tell Ina has concerns for humanity if they’re not interested in eating that.

10:31 – Now I see what she means – so far there is ham and mustard and puff pastry involved – yum!

11:49 – Watching Ina slice cheese (gruyere, natch) in the food processor I’ve just come to a startling realization – Ina loves efficiency! The gleam in her eye as that cheese came out perfectly sliced in about 7 seconds tells me I’m right. Kindred spirits.

12:25 – Seriously, how does Ina get her pastry to roll out just so? Mine starts in it’s nice rectangle and ends up all wonky – what am I doing wrong?

13:57 – The Ham and Cheese in Puff Pastry has just emerged from the oven and it looks like heaven. Guess what I’ll be making…

14:32 – Now we’re getting into the assemble/buy part which consists of putting olives and almonds in bowls and arranging slices of cucumber and salami on a platter.

18:11 – Last app to make and Ina has decided on Roasted Shrimp Cocktail a sure winner.

19:30 – First a little prep to take the shells off (tail on to use as a “handle” for guests) and de-vein. The whole concept of dealing with shrimp was such a mystery to me until just a few years ago – this process baffled me until I tried it a few times.

20:23 – Cocktail sauce time – with the volume turned up, of course.

21:09 – I’ve actually made Ina’s cocktail sauce before and it is outstanding – no more bottled sauce for me.

22:40 – Shrimp are out of the oven and they look so good arranged around the central sauce bowl. Simple and delicious.

26:21 – Jack has arrived for lessons on setting up the bar and if the major side-eye he’s giving is any indication there’s more than a little uncertainty that he’s up to the challenge.

27:03 – First the patented Ina buffet table cloth folding lesson and glass arrangement strategy. There is a reason this woman is famous for her entertaining – what a pro!

28:15 – I feel like Jack might be a ringer sent in to ask questions for us like “How many glasses per person?” Pro Tip #4: Order 3 glasses per person from the rental company to avoid running out.

28:42 – Ina also recommends scotch, vodka, bourbon and rum in addition to soft drinks and water for the bar.

29:56 – Fast forward to the night of Jack’s cocktail party – Ina has stopped in to check on her student. Wisecracks about how “straight” the line of glasses are flow like “good bourbon” and Jack apple-polishes a little with vodka on the rocks for his professor. Extra credit.

Final Thoughts:

I really would love to hear more about Ina’s kitchen disasters & also-rans – I’m pretty sure she’s mainly self-taught and I bet there were some good learning experiences.

I need to practice that table cloth folding technique but I don’t have one quite that big – maybe a large flat sheet would work?

I’ve never thought to bribe a teacher with booze, but I bet it’s effective…

Ham and Cheese in Puff Pastry | Image: Laura Messersmith

Ham and Cheese in Puff Pastry | Image: Laura Messersmith

Lessons Learned:

Ham and Cheese in Puff Pastry is a recipe almost entirely about assembly of ingredients rather than a great deal of cooking, which makes it incredibly simple and frankly the results are pretty impressive for the amount of effort it takes.

The trickiest part is dealing with the puff pastry – after defrosting a box of two sheets over night in the refrigerator I rolled out one of the sheets an inch or so in each direction. I’d highly recommend doing the rolling on a piece of parchment paper that can then just be lifted onto a sheet pan – even straight from the refrigerator the puff pastry gets sticky fairly quickly and this step saves on flouring your countertop and therefore extra clean up.

I used the (now) slightly larger sheet as the bottom layer – spread the mustard (I mixed two teaspoons each Maille whole grain and Gulden’s spicy brown), ham, and gruyere leaving a border – and placed the un-rolled second sheet of pastry on top. Having the bottom crust a little larger allows it to fold up around the filling really easily.

I came across another blogger (Joy the Baker) who made this recipe and suggested assembling ahead of time, refrigerating, and doing the egg wash and baking steps the next morning for an easy brunch dish. BRILLIANT. Pastry needs to be cold anyway, and putting the main course for brunch in the oven while still in your proverbial bunny slippers only to have it emerge golden a mere 20 – 25 minutes later makes you appear to be a domestic goddess on par with Nigella. Again, this all happens with minimal effort.

Small Kitchen Friendly?

Yes, a surprise considering that it involves a rolling pin. I also used a sheet pan, small cutting board, chef’s knife, measuring spoons, a pastry brush, fork and a small bowl. I also can’t recommend parchment paper (not waxed paper or foil) enough for this – a great help.

Ham and Cheese in Puff Pastry | Image: Laura Messersmith

Ham and Cheese in Puff Pastry | Image: Laura Messersmith

The Verdict:

I made Ham and Cheese in Puff Pastry for Mike and my parents during their visit and served it for brunch on Sunday morning. This is essentially the flavors of croque monsieur (pastry + mustard + ham + cheese = how bad could that be?) in alternate form and turned out buttery, flaky and delicious. Also, surprisingly filling despite it’s low-key appearance. We all loved it and really wanted seconds, but were unexpectedly full after relatively modest servings. I went with sweet red grapes and blueberry muffins as sides, but you could easily take this in a more “lunch-y” direction with a side salad or soup. This one is multi-tasking winner!

Ham and Cheese in Puff Pastry | Image: Laura Messersmith

Ham and Cheese in Puff Pastry | Image: Laura Messersmith

Lemony Cucumber Salad with Chickpeas

Lemony Cucumber Salad with Chickpeas | Image: Laura Messersmith

Lemony Cucumber Salad with Chickpeas | Image: Laura Messersmith

My parents came to visit us in New York last weekend and brought with them some great produce from their local farmers market including a ton of late season cucumbers. The old saying “necessity is the mother of invention” is incredibly true in the kitchen and never more so for me than when I have an unexpected fresh produce.

Usually I buy cumbers one at a time and use them more as a garnish, but in this case I had a half dozen. So the question was: what to do with a half dozen cucumbers? Make pickles? A chilled soup? Or, maybe a different take on Greek/Mediterranean flavors by making the cucumber the star….

I scoured the pantry and fridge for inspiration and found feta and a can of chickpeas and after that the idea of doing a light, lemony vinaigrette seemed like the best way to bring all the ingredients together.

Lemony Cucumber Salad with Chickpeas | Image: Laura Messersmith

Lemony Cucumber Salad with Chickpeas | Image: Laura Messersmith

Lemony Cucumber Salad with Chickpeas (serves 4)

Ingredients:

4 cups (3-4 medium) thinly sliced seedless cucumber
1 can (15 ounce) drained rinsed chickpeas
1/4 cup crumbled feta cheese
1/4 cup slivered almonds
1/2 cup of freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 teaspoon lemon zest
2 teaspoons minced, fresh dill
1/4 cup olive oil
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper

Directions:

Using a chef’s knife, vegetable peeler, or mandoline, thinly slice the cucumbers length-wise into long ribbons about 1/8”. Drain and rinse the chickpeas. Set aside both the chickpeas and the cucumbers in a medium bowl lined with paper towel to collect any excess moisture.

To make the vinaigrette whisk together the lemon juice, lemon zest, minced dill, 1 ½ teaspoons kosher salt, and 1/2 teaspoon black pepper with olive oil.

Remove the paper towel from underneath the cucumber and chickpeas and toss together with the dressing. Next, in a dry sauté pan toast the almonds for 2-3 minutes until lightly browned.

Arrange the cucumber and chickpeas on a platter and sprinkle with the toasted almonds and feta. Garnish with lemon zest and dill fronds.

Serve immediately.

Lemony Cucumber Salad with Chickpeas | Image: Laura Messersmith

Lemony Cucumber Salad with Chickpeas | Image: Laura Messersmith

Small Kitchen Friendly?

Yes, absolutely. I used a small sauté pan, a medium cutting board, and a medium mixing bowl. I also used a medium sieve, a mandoline slicer, a chef’s knife for chopping, a small paring knife, a liquid measuring cup and measuring spoons, along with a wire whisk.

The Verdict:

I made this for myself as a light lunch and I was really happy with the results. This salad incorporates Greek and Mediterranean ingredients in a way that highlights the cucumber and punches up the cool watery flavor with a strong lemony dressing. Mike’s influence on my cooking means that I’m always looking for ways to include substantial components in my salads. In this case the delicate crunch of the cucumbers are balanced by the chickpeas and almonds topped with a little salty feta. Yum.

Lemony Cucumber Salad with Chickpeas | Image: Laura Messersmith

Lemony Cucumber Salad with Chickpeas | Image: Laura Messersmith

Scouting: Ninth Avenue International Grocery

Ninth Avenue International Grocery | Image: Laura Messersmith

Ninth Avenue International Grocery | Image: Laura Messersmith

The Ninth Avenue International Grocery is in the shadow of the Port Authority bus overpass on a grittier section of 9th Ave. Not necessarily the place I expected to find a wonderland of cooking ingredients. The shop itself is no frills, but the counter assistants are so friendly and helpful; thank goodness too because there is so much to choose from.

Ninth Avenue International Grocery | Image: Laura Messersmith

Ninth Avenue International Grocery | Image: Laura Messersmith

Ninth Avenue International Grocery | Image: Laura Messersmith

Ninth Avenue International Grocery | Image: Laura Messersmith

Sacks of beans and lentils, ground flours of all varieties take up most of the floor space, while bottles of olive oil and jars of honey, not to mention the bins of whole and ground spices, nuts and dried fruit line the walls. I had a hard time knowing where to start and with prices well below what I’ve paid in the past it was hard to know when to stop!

I noticed that one pound of French green lentils - aka. lentilles du Puy - at Ninth Ave. is $1.99 compared with the $4.99 per pound my neighborhood grocery store charges. No contest, right? Naturally I took a sack of them home with me for future batches of Salmon with Lentils.

Ninth Avenue International Grocery | Image: Laura Messersmith

Ninth Avenue International Grocery | Image: Laura Messersmith

Ninth Avenue International Grocery | Image: Laura Messersmith

Ninth Avenue International Grocery | Image: Laura Messersmith

Word to the wise, if you don't see something: ASK! When I inquired I learned that they had three different types of pumpkin seeds and the whole vanilla beans were tucked away in one of the refrigerated coolers. A few scoops of toasted pumpkins seeds came home with me and I now have big plans for making vanilla sugar with the two beans wrapped carefully in waxed paper and now tucked in my own fridge. I'm excited to go back and explore the boxes and packets I couldn't get to on my first visit. Now I know where to find future inspiration. Stay tuned…

Ninth Avenue International Grocery | 543 9th Avenue, New York, NY 10018 | M-F 7:30 am – 6:30 pm, Sa 7:30 am – 6:00 pm