Scouting: Food Photography Class

January 31, 2015 by Laura Messersmith in Scouting

Pears | Image: Laura Messersmith — **Pears** | Image: *Laura Messersmith*

I mentioned a few weeks ago that I signed up for a food photography class and promised to fill you in on the experience – well that long awaited day is here along with some pictures from the four day workshop! The class was offered through the International Center for Photography and taught by Susie Cushner, an amazingly talented food and still life photographer.

Seriously, her level of knowledge and attention to detail are incredible – what she can do transform light with a few foam core cards and a black curtain are something to see. Each day I’d come home, brain tired and spinning from all the information it was trying desperately to retain!

We were also fortunate to have the gifts of Nancy Adler, TA and student whisperer, and food stylist Dana Bonagura at our disposal. Dana was on hand during our studio shoots to help us translate our ideas – in my case something vague like “moody vegetables about to be roasted” into beautiful, natural compositions.

Root Vegetables Phase I | Image: Laura Messersmith — **Root Vegetables Phase I** | Image: *Laura Messersmith*

Root Vegetables Phase II | Image: Laura Messersmith — **Root Vegetables Phase II** | Image: *Laura Messersmith*

My fellow students were fascinating too and the diversity of backgrounds – two chefs, a photographer’s assistant, a photography student, a photography professor, a non-profit communications professional, a blogger, and an event photographer – nationalities, and levels of experience added so much to the discussions. I was lucky to be paired with Margarita Garcia – a much, much more experienced photographer and thankfully one who was so patient with my scramble up the learning curve. Watching her work and talking through the process with her was fascinating; I began to understand the kind of meticulous mindset that professional photographers are in during a shoot.

Bread | Image: Laura Messersmith — **Bread** | Image: *Laura Messersmith*

Admittedly I didn’t shoot a much as I would have liked, but it also gave me plenty of opportunity to observe and consider how my own process might be informed by my experiences in the class. These were my takeaway lessons…

1. Understand the basics. Aperture, Shutter Speed, ISO, White Balance. Read about these concepts or better yet watch a ton of YouTube videos until you know them cold.

2. Know your equipment: being familiar with how to change the settings. This video was particularly helpful to me because it used the same model camera I have.

3. Consider the subject. What will you be photographing? Will the shot be of whole ingredients, process, the finished dish, a plated portion? What do you want the viewer to take away from the shot?

4. Consider the composition. How will you frame the shot? How many elements will be involved? Don’t ignore the edges or corners – as Susie reminded us the edges are where things get interesting.

5. Think through the styling. Is the tone rustic, formal, modern, natural, structured? Is it in the kitchen or on the table? How do the props (vessels, linens, utensils, etc.) contribute to telling the “backstory” of the shot? Susie’s mantra: the magic is in the details.

6. Observe the light. What mood or time of day do you want to convey? What shadows and highlights are present? Does the light help to capture the texture and color of the subject or are some adjustments needed?

7. Adjust, adjust, adjust. A small tweak here, a nudge there – continually make small changes until you get the shot you want. Repeat after me: the magic is in the details.

8. See what You see. Bring your personality and perspective to the final shot.

Already I can see the ways that these takeaways lessons are informing the way I approach food photography. It takes an amazing amount of energy and focus to create even the most simple shot and I have such great respect for the professional photographers, food stylists, and prop stylists in this field.

Fish | Image: Laura Messermith — **Fish** | Image: *Laura Messermith*

Pear Cranberry Crostata

January 28, 2015 by Laura Messersmith in Cooking with the Contessa

Each week I follow along with Ina Garten (aka the Barefoot Contessa) and attempt to recreate one of her dishes in my tiny New York City kitchen. The catch? This is my version of cooking school and I’m making these recipes for the first time. I’ll share both my successes and um, challenges, along the way and we’ll see if I can keep up with the Contessa!

Episode: “Training Day Dinner”

The Set-up: Ina and Chef Joe Realmuto have offered to help make dinner for the East Hampton volunteer firefighters.

The Menu: Grilled Bread with Prosciutto, TownLine BBQ Pork Ribs, Sandy’s Potato Salad, Pear and Cranberry Crostata

0:42 – Ina is starting us off with Pear and Cranberry Crostata which she chose because it’s served room temperature, can be easily transported and is “absolutely delicious.” Good call on all three.

1:36 – I kind of assumed that crostata was basically a flatter version of a pie, but I notice that Ina isn’t putting any spices in with the diced pears, just a little orange zest.

2:05 – Pastry time, this recipe is a little different than the one she recommended for pie – it’s butter only, no vegetable shortening – and seems a bit softer.

3:28 – A quick intro to the East Hampton Volunteer Fire Department (est. 1975), so we know why this dinner is so important.

4:41 – Back with Ina to make the topping for the crostata – cinnamon, butter, allspice, sugar – and I ask myself, “How bad could that be?”

5:52 – These look seriously delicious and I can tell already that this is the recipe I want to make.

6:39 – I’m watching Ina intently as she finishes the final assembly – especially the crust folding technique – I think this maybe where the magic happens.

7:57 – Of course she makes it look so simple, but there must be a trick, right? I’m noticing no egg wash either which seems standard for getting golden brown pastry…

10:14 – Ina has rolled up to the EHVFD in an emergency vehicle of her own – emergency dessert.

11:23 – We get a little overview of the preparations underway, buffet tables, grill assembly, and Ina’s partner in crime: Chef Joe Realmuto.

12:45 – Ina heads upstairs to cook with Sandy, mastermind of Sandy’s Potato Salad, and Ina is put to work chopping hard boiled eggs.

13:16 – Sandy tells Ina that this is an old fashioned Southern recipe from her family tradition and I believe it – any mayonnaise based salad that also calls for pickle relish has got to be straight off the picnic table.

14:35 – Ina and Sandy have a heart to heart about how cooking is only kind of a science, since even the same ingredients vary in flavor. True story, sometimes you do everything the same and it just turns out differently!

15:28 – Taste test time and Ina approves of this “really old fashioned potato salad.”

20:34 – We’re outside at the giant grills set up for Chef Realmuto’s ribs which start with a dry rub of paprika, salt, sugar, ground mustard, chili powder, cumin, black pepper, garlic powder, and cayenne. Mike is a huge barbecue aficionado I wonder if he would approve of this recipe?

21:53 – Step Two of the process involves a “Texas mop”, a term I’ve never heard before, and it looks like a miniature version of a rope mop used for floors, except this one is used to baste the ribs every half hour.

22:15 – A little research tells me that “Texas mop” could also be referring to the basting sauce itself.

23:47 – Joe apparently made these ribs in a smoker at his restaurant and is just using the grill to re-heat. I’m relieved to hear that my fellow Yankees haven’t confused “grilling” with “barbecue.”

26:36 – Over to Ina who is making Grilled Bread with Prosciutto as an appetizer while Joe sets up giant platters of ribs.

27:50 – Yum. Ina is used smoked mozzarella on top of the prosciutto – I love smoked cheeses. My stomach is growling.

28:21 – Training is over and the buffet table is laden with all sorts of salads including Sandy’s Potato Salad, of course.

29:32 – The crostata is served and the cooking team celebrates with a round of high-fives!

Final Thoughts:
I Googled “crostata” and “galette” - turns out they’re the same thing in different languages (Italian and French.) Cue the “The More You Know” star…

I feel like crostatas might really be my jam. #sorrynotsorry in advance for the influx of crostata recipes I’ll be posting.

I love how involved Ina is with her local community – I swear she’s always volunteering or donating her time.

Lessons Learned:
Dough – I’m trying to reach some level of comfort with pie crust and after my last attempt with Deep Dish Apple Pie where the dough was too dry I was hyperaware of adding enough water. I think I actually overdid it since the result was pretty sticky, but it seemed a little more forgiving once a fair amount of additional flour was incorporated during the rolling out process. I noticed that because the dough was a little soft that my crostata edges were prone to falling down, but I have confidence that one of these days I’ll get it right!

Fruit – The original recipe called for “big chunks” of pear, but the ones I was had were a little under-ripe and since I was making mini versions I cut them a little smaller. This ended up being just perfect – the fruit was definitely cooked, but still firm pieces. I’d love to try this recipe again with fresh cranberries since the dried ones ended up a little dark and I don’t know how much of the flavor came through. I also forgot the orange zest, but it didn’t seem to matter much.

Assembly – I cut this recipe in half and then made three mini crostatas instead of one medium sized one. All the proportions still worked perfectly and as I was finishing the assembly process I decided to brush them with egg wash and sprinkle a little turbinado sugar – all good choices that I’d recommend!

Small Kitchen Friendly?
Yes, assuming you have a medium sized food processor. I also used a large cutting board, chef’s knife, vegetable (in this case fruit) peeler, rolling pin, dry & liquid measuring cups, measuring spoons, a baking sheet, and a medium bowl. I needed a small bowl and a pastry brush for the egg wash; plastic wrap and parchment paper rounded out the “kit.”

The Verdict:
I put these mini Pear and Cranberry Crostatas out as a mid-afternoon snack for some friends and when it was time to go there was just one lonely quarter leftover. Shockingly, it took zero convincing to get someone to help out with that last piece. I personally love the sweetness of the pears with the tart cranberries and how the crust gets beautifully crisp; which means these can be eaten “politely” with a fork or just picked right up like a slice of pizza. I also have full leave from Mike to make these anytime. Color me a crostata convert.

Black Pepper Molasses Pulled Chicken Sliders

January 26, 2015 by Laura Messersmith in Cooking

Back in the day (like 7 years ago) Mike and I took a roadtrip from Boston, MA to Dallas, TX and decided that we’d make it a BBQ Tour since our route took us through the Carolinas, Memphis, and then of course, on to Texas. Since then we’ve both developed some strong opinions on what constitutes “good” barbecue. Don’t get me wrong, I love some Lockhart smoked brisket, but I also can’t get enough of Kansas City-style sauce.

This recipe started from one I spotted in an issue of Cooking Light and after making it over and over again I eventually developed my own version that combines the sweet, spicy, layered flavors that I love so much. The chicken cooks in a thick, molasses and ketchup based sauce that has a little tang of vinegary umami from the Worcestershire sauce add in the smoky depth of cumin and this pulled chicken is so, so good.

And, since you might be in the market for some Game Day ideas this is one I’d recommend since it’s really easy to make ahead and reheat before serving (an extra splash of chicken stock will help if it seems a little dry.) I put these together with a few different toppings – fresh arugula, pickled red onion, dill chips – but a spoonful of coleslaw, or some sweet pickle relish along with an extra smother of sauce would be great.

Keep this baby in your back pocket for a summer cook out too – it works in all seasons!

Black Pepper Molasses Pulled Chicken Sliders (yield: 12 sliders)
Ingredients:
1/2 cup tomato ketchup
1/4 cup tablespoons molasses
3 tablespoons spicy brown mustard (I like Gulden’s)
3 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
1/4 cup chicken broth
1 dash Worcestershire sauce
2 tablespoons dark or light brown sugar
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 1/2 teaspoons ancho chili powder
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
4 pounds skinless boneless chicken breasts
1 dozen mini hamburger buns
1 cup dill pickle chips
1 1/2 cups pickled red onion
Barbecue sauce, for serving (I like this one from W-S)

Instructions:
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

In a large pot or French oven, whisk together the ketchup, mustard, molasses, cider vinegar, chicken broth, brown sugar, and spices. Warm over medium-low heat until the sauce comes to a simmer. This is a good time to taste the sauce if you want to make adjustments.

Meanwhile, trim the chicken breasts and dice into large pieces, about 1 inch square. Add the chicken pieces to the sauce and toss to coat evenly. Cover the pot and place in the oven to braise the chicken for 50-60 minutes until the chicken is cooked through.

Allow the chicken to cool slightly and shred into pieces with two forks while still warm. It will appear at first that there is too much sauce, but as the chicken is shredded it will absorb the excess.

Serve on toasted mini hamburger buns with dill chips, pickled red onion (recipe below), coleslaw or fresh arugula.

Recipe adapted and rewritten from Cooking Light.

Quick Pickled Red Onions
Ingredients:
5 ounces (1 medium) red onion, thinly sliced
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
3/4 cup white wine vinegar or apple cider vinegar
Boiling Water

Instructions:
Boil 2 - 3 cups of water in a kettle. Peel and thinly slice the onion into approximately 1/4" slices or half-moons.

In the container you plan to store the onions, add the sugar, salt, vinegar and flavorings. Stir to dissolve.

Place the peeled and sliced onions in a sieve and place the sieve in the sink. Slowly pour the boiling water over the onions and let them drain. Add the onions to the jar and stir gently to evenly distribute the flavorings. Seal the jar and place in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes.

The onions will be ready in about 30 minutes, but are better after a few hours. Store in the refrigerator. They will keep for several weeks but are best in the first week.

Recipe rewritten from The Kitchn.

Small Kitchen Friendly?
Yes, indeed! For the pulled chicken I used my trusty 5.5 quart French oven, a large cutting board, serrated utility knife, liquid measuring cup, measuring spoons, a rubber spatula, and two dinner forks.

The quick pickled red onions need a teakettle or pot (for boiling the water), medium jam jar or other glass container, small cutting board, chef’s knife, liquid measuring cup, measuring spoons.

Steak with Béarnaise Sauce

January 23, 2015 by Laura Messersmith in Cooking with the Contessa

Steak with Béarnaise | Image: Laura Messersmith — **Steak with Béarnaise** | Image: *Laura Messersmith*

Episode: “Happy Anniversary”

The Set-up: Ina and Jeffrey are celebrating their 35th wedding anniversary with a special dinner.

The Menu: Rosemary Roasted Potatoes, Shrimp with Cocktail Sauce, Steak with Béarnaise, String Beans with Shallots

0:39 – Ina starts this episode by making two statements – first that Jeffrey is a “creature of habit” and second that Shrimp with Cocktail Sauce is a “fairly 70s” dish. I can’t speak to the veracity of these claims, so I’m just going to roll with it.

1:03 – Pro Tip #1: if you’re poaching your own shrimp, leave the shells on and cook them for three minutes in boiling water. It‘s all the time they need.

2:18 – Cut to Mr. Garten driving along and expounding on the importance of anniversaries and admitting that he forgot their 20th. I hope Ina made him sleep on the porch.

3:20 – Back to Ina peeling and deveining the shrimp (tails on.) She says that even though shrimp cocktail is “really old-fashioned” it’s the first thing to go at a party. Guilty as charged. I make a beeline for it.

4:33 – On to the cocktail sauce part of the recipe. I thought I had made this before, but as I review the ingredients list I’m realizing I’m totally unfamiliar with chili sauce.

5:11 – Back to Mr. Garten who is on a mission to bring Ina a box of brownies just like she used to send him in college. So sweet!

6:07 –Ina is hating on the old martini glass, crushed ice presentation. Guess what first Google image search result for shrimp cocktail is… I guess they were taking the name literally?

7:25 – She plates her dish using a silver bowl on a white platter, but isn’t above cutting a lemon into a retro-chic garnish. I suppose we all have to have fun somehow.

10:29 – On to the Rosemary Roasted Potatoes which if you’ve been following along for the past year involve the standard olive oil, kosher salt, black pepper, and in this case, minced rosemary. I seriously cook 90% of the vegetables we eat this way now.

11:36 – Over to Jeffrey who’s hitting up Michael the Florist TM for some ribbon to jazz up the box of brownies with. Good call, J, always enlist help!

12:45 – Ina has moved on to the Steak with Béarnaise starting with the sauce – white wine, champagne vinegar, tarragon – sounds good to me!

13:38 – Ina separates her eggs same the way I do by using the shells as little cups. Twinsies!

14:40 – Raw egg yolks + hot vinegar/white wine/tarragon/shallots + hot butter = béarnaise. Hmm. Usually adding hot things to eggs is a no-no, but the blender must prevent them from scrambling?

15:51 - It strikes me that this kind of recipe where the steps themselves aren’t that tricky, but the order is essential.

18:27 – Pro Tip #2: Remove the steaks from the refrigerator a few minutes before you intend to cook them to take the chill off the meat.

19:12 – Steak grillin’ time! Jeffrey’s grill-lighting activities are accompanied by the “getting things done” music. Charcoal chimney: check.

20:36 – Ina brushes the steaks with olive oil and then goes out to the patio to manage the grilling (read: tease Jeffrey) and then immediately abandons him to cook the main course. Ahahahaha.

21:44 – Ostensibly it’s so she can go inside to show us how to make String Beans with Shallots, so I’ll let it slide. This time.

22:18 – For a simple haricot vert this recipe requires a lot of equipment – a pot of boiling water, a bowl of ice water, a large skillet. Remind me to save this one for when we have a bigger kitchen!

23:33 – Jeffrey seems to be muddling along with the rib eyes pretty well and Ina does have some good-looking green beans. Dinner is coming together!

26:21 – Out on the terrace again to deliver the Shrimp with Cocktail Sauce – sustenance for Jeffrey as he grills, seems pretty fair now I guess.

27:10 – Actual “secret sauce” time as Ina reveals that the trick to make-ahead béarnaise is a few tablespoons of very hot water blended in at the last minute. Very tricky…

28:49 – Rosemary Roasted Potatoes are out of the oven, looking perfectly golden brown, steaks are off the grill and rested. It’s time to eat!

29:55 – As Ina teases Jeffrey about the time he forgot their anniversary over dinner he reveals the surprise: a walk on the beach and the box of brownies! So charming!

Final Thoughts:
It’s amazing how some of the simplest dishes (I’m looking at you string beans) can have so many steps!

Ina has such a great way of de-mystifying seemingly fancy recipes.

I’m thinking this might be a great Valentines Day meal – just add a glass of red wine?

Lessons Learned:
Talk to the Butcher – I’m always looking for excuses to practice cooking steak, but it’s also intimidating. After spending $$$ on a cut I worry that I’ll mess it up! I figured, who knows steak better than the butcher? So, I had a long conversation with Ritchie at Schatzie's about my plan to make Steak with Béarnaise and he recommended buying two different pieces: a 1 inch thick ribeye and a 1 1/2 inch thick NY Strip. This solved three problems - portion size, cooking time, and "doneness" - it allowed me to cook both pieces of meat for the same length of time and get one medium for me, and one medium-rare for Mike.

Pan Temperature – The steak is the star of this dish, so cooking it properly is essential and also honestly the trickiest part. I used an 8 inch cast iron skillet heated over high flame for 4-5 minutes before the steak even hit the surface. You want to hear that ssssssss sizzle sound. The length of time depends on the thickness of the steak and your desired internal temperature. A 1 inch steak cooked for three minutes on each side yields a medium (hot red) center.

Sauce Reduction – To get the right texture of the béarnaise sauce the vinegar/white wine/tarragon/shallot mixture should be reduced to about 2 tablespoons. It serves two purposes – concentrating the flavor and making sure the béarnaise sauce isn’t too thin.

Small Kitchen Friendly?
Yes, assuming you have a small food processor or blender. I also used an 8 inch cast iron skillet, a chef’s knife, medium cutting board, small sauce pan, liquid measuring cup, and measuring spoon.

The Verdict:
I made Steak with Béarnaise for Mike and I – thanks to the excellent advice from Ritchie both steaks turned out just the way we like them. The béarnaise sauce is just slightly fussy, but thanks to Ina’s make-ahead hot water trick I made some earlier in the day refrigerated it and it still turned out beautifully. Steak with Bearnaise might not sound like a week-night meal, but it honestly takes less than 30 minutes start to finish and, btw it’s delicious.