Blueberry Muffins

September 10, 2014 by Laura Messersmith in Cooking with the Contessa

As inspiration for more adventurous culinary efforts I’m following along with Ina Garten, aka The Barefoot Contessa, in my tiny New York kitchen. Let’s see if I can keep up with the Contessa!

Episode: “School Today”

The Set-up: Ina is showing students at East Hampton High School how a bake sale is DONE.

The Menu: Old Fashioned Banana Cake, Blueberry Muffins

0:32 – Since this is school I guess First Period is Old Fashioned Banana Cake 101.

1:14 – I love smushing up bananas for banana bread, but I just now realized how disgusting they look. Seriously, bananas, you’re grossing me out, not cool.

2:59 – Normally I’m 100% onboard with Ina’s use of zest, but in this case I just can get behind orange zest in banana cake. Doesn’t compute for me.

3:27 – Ina is making these cakes for the Bake Sale but like the ultimate “cool aunt” she’s saving the icing step to do with the students. Way to get in their good graces.

5:06 – Ina has made three cakes and three separate batches of batter – I’ve never understood the prevailing wisdom that doubling or tripling a recipe runs the risk of not turning out right. The answer is probably Science, but why?

6:41 – Anyway, enough of my mutterings. Back to the kids! We get a few minutes with the East Hampton High Life Skills Class as they work through grocery shopping for the Blueberry Muffins.

10:15 – Ina is in the classroom when the students arrive and she brought aprons embroidered with their names on the placket! She is obviously The Best, but this is so, so sweet.

11:33 – Second Period: Blueberry Muffins and Ina is walking the students through the process, which is pretty much my dream Home Ec class come to life.

12:48 – This is making me wonder if high schools still teach Home Ec or do mainstream students have too much Government homework to do?

13:10 – The students are kicking butt with these muffins, but who wouldn’t with a fabulous teacher like Ina to teach you how to fold in blueberries?

14:29 – The muffins look really good and I’m betting that they’ll be gone by the time the bake sale is over.

19:52 – Time to frost the Old Fashioned Banana Cakes – whoop! Ina tries to get them to promise not to eat all the icing, but I’m afraid that’s not something I can agree to…

20:33 – One of the students has already picked up on the Ina Approved Lingo and call the frosting “Fantastic!” Extra points for you, young man.

21:47 – Am I the only one who has trouble spreading frosting? So. many. crumbs.

22:26 – Cakes are frosted, muffins are baked, and brownies that Ina brought are sliced. Let’s Bake Sale, y’all.

23:58 – Bake Sale is over and the hordes of students and teachers appear to have purchased (and presumably eaten) all but 3 muffins and 2 pieces of banana cake. Proceeds go toward the Life Skills Class trip to NYC.

26:12 – School’s out and Ina is back in the barn for A.P. Cooking (aka ‘Ina Asks’) where she puts some culinary questions to a chef instructor Toni Dickenson at the International Culinary Center.

27:25 – Question 1: What’s the right way to sharpen a knife? I’ll try to summarize the answer: Place the tip of the sharpening steel perpendicular to a non-skid, flat surface. Hold the knife at a 20 degree angle against the steel and draw the blade back from hilt to tip 2-3 times. Repeat on the other side of the blade and wipe clean with a soft cloth.

28:31 – Question 2: Are you supposed to wash soft fruit, like berries? No, if you know that they’re pesticide free, but if you’re not sure then swirl them gently in a bowl of water and dry on a paper towel just before using.

29:54 – Question 3: How do you make spun sugar? 2 1/2 cups sugar + 1/2 cup corn syrup + 1/2 cup water cook to 300 degrees, then cool in a water bath to 275. Drizzle across a greased bowl in thin strands.

Final Thoughts:

It’s awesome that Ina uses her skills as a volunteer in her local community – I’m definitely inspired to do more.

I actually think that Home Ec is an important part of a well-rounded education – more people should know how to cook for themselves!

One thing I love about cooking is that there’s always more to learn, new techniques to master, even icing or in Ina’s case spun sugar…

Lessons Learned:

I’d say that Blueberry Muffins are the Chocolate Chip cookie of the muffin world; which is to say that they’re a classic and in my experience usually the first to go leaving Bran and Oatmeal Raisin lonely. But, I’ve really never made them before – ridiculous right? So here was my chance.

This recipe doesn’t require a lot of special technique or cooking experience, which makes it a perfect gateway for the baking-averse. Truly, if you can measure with accuracy and wield a fork for mixing then Ina’s Blueberry Muffins are well within your grasp.

The only tricky part (and I brought this on myself) is fresh vs. frozen berries. I admit I was too lazy to make a special trip to the grocery store and since I had frozen ones on hand I decided to use them….

Great idea, except that they tended to sink a little in the batter which meant most of them were lurking in the bottom of the muffins when they came out of the oven. A tragedy? Not even close, but I would recommend dusting frozen berries with just a little flour (1-2 tablespoons should be plenty) before adding them to the mix.

Small Kitchen Friendly?

Yes, no fancy equipment needed! I used two medium mixing bowls, two small bowls, a sieve, measuring cups (dry and liquid), a rubber spatula, small ice cream scoop, and two muffin tins.

The Verdict:

Even cutting this recipe in half I ended up with a lot of Blueberry Muffins which was good news for several friends and for us because we had lots of opportunity to test them. Let’s just say that none of them went to waste… Lovely light crumb with just a hint of sweetness nicely balanced by the tang of the lemon and blueberries. Please make these for your next houseguest, potluck brunch, bakesale – you will be the most popular kid in school.

Croque Monsieur a la Aquitaine

September 09, 2014 by Laura Messersmith in Cooking

A few years ago when Mike and I were back in Boston I tried a French bistro classic for the first time. We had the afternoon to ourselves while we waited for our friends to finish their work days and decided a leisurely lunch at Aquitaine in the South End was the best way to pass the time. That lunch stands out in my memory for the relaxed pace of the day and the deliciousness of the food – beautifully smooth tomato bisque, a bright vinegary salad, and the star: a crisp, buttery Croque Monsieur.

Since then I’ve ordered the CM on other occasions and discovered - somewhat to my disappointment - that what I believed to be the ‘traditional’ style was actually Aquitaine’s own method. Research on the semi-reliable internet tells me that Aquitaine dips their CMs in a little egg and then cooks the sandwiches underneath a hot brick for an crisp exterior and a slightly flattened sandwich. Instead of cheese melted over the top; all the delicious Gruyere and its accompanying ham are contained in the crunchy bread for something more akin to a panini by way of a Monte Cristo sandwich. Photo evidence here.

After some experimenting (blame my need for a really good, crunchy bread for the lateness of this post) I give you my tribute to the flavors and textures I remember from that afternoon when I learned that grilled cheese could be grown-up and elegant.

I love serving this toasty sandwich with an extra schmere of whole grain mustard and a bunch of cool green grapes or a small pile of salad dressed with the same vinaigrette that goes in the spread. Maybe a glass of sauvignon blanc? Instant bistro.

Croque Monsieur a la Aquitaine (serves 4)

4 teaspoons whole grain mustard, like Maille Old Style
4 teaspoons creamy vinaigrette (see recipe below)
1/2 pound gruyere cheese, finely grated
4 thin slices Virginia ham
8 slices country bread, about 1/3" thick
4 tablespoons softened butter

In a small bowl, stir together the whole grain mustard and the creamy vinaigrette (recipe below) until well mixed. Spread one side the bread with a thin layer (about 1/2 teaspoon) of the mustard mixture and the other side with a thin layer of the softened butter.

Arrange the bread on a plate, buttered sides down. Divide half the grated gruyere among four slices of bread and top the cheese with a piece of Virginia ham. Sprinkle the other half of the gruyere over the ham - again, dividing equally among the sandwiches - and top with the remaining slices of bread, mustard-side in.

Meanwhile, heat a large cast iron skillet over medium-high heat. Press the sandwiches down gently to keep the halves together and place in the hot skillet.

Cook 3-4 minutes on each side or until golden brown. Resist the urge to crowd the pan. Repeat the procedure with remaining sandwiches keeping the first batch warm in a 200 degree oven.

Cut in half with a serrated knife and serve hot.

Creamy Vinaigrette (adapted from Ina Garten)

Ingredients:

2 tablespoons cider vinegar
2 tablespoons Champagne vinegar
Pinch sugar
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 large egg yolk
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Instructions:

In the bowl of a food processor fitted with a steel blade combine the vinegars, sugar, salt, pepper, and egg yolk and blend for 1 minute. With the motor running, slowly pour the olive oil through the feed tube until the vinaigrette is thickened. Season, to taste. The dressing will last in the refrigerator for 2-3 weeks, so wash out an old jam jar and save it!

Small Kitchen Friendly?

Oui. I used a 4 cup food processor, 10” cast iron skillet, microplane grater, liquid measuring cup and measuring spoons, and a small bowl along with a medium sized cutting board and serrated knife. A metal spatula will make life easy for turning and pressing the sandwiches.

The Verdict

The extra effort to get the bread crunchy and toasted was so worth it. The gruyere is nutty and rich, while the ham adds a little bulk and saltiness – add in the tang of the vinaigrette & mustard mix and you’re in business. This is definitely a “grilled cheese” that I’d serve to guests for a casual lunch and it’s perfect a day when Mike and I need a little spoiling and only fancy sandwiches will do.

Scouting: La Boîte à Epice

September 05, 2014 by Laura Messersmith in Scouting

La Boîte à Epice | Image:  Laura Messersmith — **La Boîte à Epice** | Image: *Laura Messersmith*

I sometimes think that understanding why certain ingredients in a recipe are there and how they work is half the battle when cooking. Does the cocoa content make a dark chocolate bar taste better in this cookie than say, milk chocolate or semi-sweet? Would a finishing salt or using a vanilla bean really pump up the flavor? These are questions answered through experience (aka trial and error) but also by knowing the options.

New York, thanks to the many, many nationalities and ethnicities that call it home, offers a huge array of ingredients and this fall I’ve decided to explore my options and check out some of the international groceries and specialty shops around the city.

My first stop on this odyssey was La Boîte à Epice. The creation of Chef Lior Lev Sercarz; roughly translated it means "The Spice Box" and contains more than 40+ specially blended spice mixes with evocative names like N. 34 Orchidea, N. 23 Tangier, and N. 7 Pierre Poivre. The mixes are made of everything from Fleur de Sel, rose blossom, cocoa, and tea, to lemon grass, saffron, star anise, and sumac – in some cases I had never even heard of the ingredient. Fenugreek? Annatto?

I think I opened every jar on the rack and found myself both delighted and overwhelmed. I’m accustomed to using herbs and spices individually in classic combinations – basil + oregano + garlic; rosemary + thyme + lemon zest.

So, looking at a mix like N. 13 Galil, which has verbena, white cardamom, and sage I was stumped. Chef Lior to the rescue! He has written a cookbook – The Art of Blending – full of gorgeous photography and delicious recipes in collaboration with other well-known chefs and food personalities to help beginners like me. Whew!

I’m excited to make some selections with N. 33 Mishmash (crystalized honey, saffron and lemon) topping my list. I can already see my culinary horizons expanding!

Lemon Chicken with Broccoli and Bowties

September 03, 2014 by Laura Messersmith in Cooking with the Contessa

As inspiration for more adventurous culinary efforts I’m following along with Ina Garten, aka The Barefoot Contessa, in my tiny New York kitchen. Let’s see if I can keep up with the Contessa!

Episode: “Potluck Party”

The Set-up: Ina is advising the owners of Amber Waves Farm on how to make their potluck classy. If anyone can save them from disaster it’s Ina.

The Menu: Lemon Chicken with Broccoli and Bowties, Wheatberry and Farro Salad, Tomato Soup with Grilled Cheese Croutons

0:33 – Ina is working on Tomato Soup with Grilled Cheese Croutons because this cooking lesson is going to be grueling and sustenance is required for both the teacher and students!

1:57 – Pro Tip #1: Add the garlic at the end of sautéing the onions so that it doesn’t burn.

2:15 – Ina recommends canned tomatoes in the winter (since they’ve been packed when really ripe), but it comes out sounding like a diss to all non-summer tomatoes. Harsh.

2:49 – We get a little overview of Amber Waves Farm (an Amagansett-based, CSA) but mainly I’m checking out the fashion of these two women who seem to have been lifted directly from a Barbour catalog. Oh, to be so perfectly wind-blown!

3:22 – Ina’s using orzo in place of the “classic” rice in tomato soup – I did not realize this was a thing.

4:38 – Amanda and Katie arrive at Ina’s and let themselves in through the garden. FYI, no Dobermans greet them, so either security is lax at the Barefoot compound, or they’ve been kenneled during the episode filming.

5:16 – Now for the Grilled Cheese Croutons, which are basically just mini-grilled cheese sandwiches and I ask you “How bad could that be?”

9:03 – The soup and grilled cheese have been served, now to get down to the cooking lessons. First up, Lemon Chicken with Broccoli and Bowties

10:31 – Pro Tip #2: Cook the broccoli first, then strain it out with a slotted spoon and re-use the boiling water for the pasta.

11:24 – As they hear Ina’s words of wisdom on measuring cup usage, Katie and Amanda reveal that one of their past potlucks resulted in everyone bringing beer, but no food. Now I understand why they have come to the master for lessons.

12:45 – Katie of the perpetual smile is assigned the grill work – rookie move, because Amanda gets to come back inside with Ina.

13:02 – Pro Tip #3: Adding the dressing to the broccoli and cooked pasta while it’s warm will help the sauce absorb.

15:18 – Has anything ever been made less delicious by the addition of pine nuts and parmesan? I didn’t think so.

20:30 – Now on to making the Wheatberry and Farro Salad and I have a confession to make: I have no earthly idea what a wheatberry is, or farro either for that matter. It turns out that they’re grains.

21:41 – I may have misjudged Katie of the perpetual smile. While Amanda has been chopping away on vegetable prep she’s doing easy things like draining the wheatberries. Quite a maneuver.

22:27 – Hmm, but now Amanda has been complimented on her perfectly chopped carrots. This is like the most understated Top Chef challenge ever.

23:59 – Taste-test time and I issue a triple-dog-dare for one of those girls to be all, “Eh, it could use a little salt.” No one accepts my challenge and Katie of the perpetual smile double dips her spoon. Two demerits.

26:05 – Fast forward to the day of the party. I can’t tell what season it is, but I’m assuming early spring. Ina is super bundled up against what looks like a really cold wind. Her hair is going 1,000 different directions. Yikes.

27:23 – Ina sent Katie and Amanda a rental list and they’ve gone very simple, but farm-y – white serving bowls, galvanized tubs, jam jar glasses. I approve.

28:14 – This is one of my favorite Pro Tips of all time, classic Ina, but also so easy to do! #4: provide matching bowls and unpack the potluck dishes into them for a pretty, uniform look to the buffet.

29:46 – Ina gives them a few more hints and then leaves Katie and Amanda to their own devices. We get a montage of people arriving and the buffet in the end looks like a perfectly rustic, Pinterest-worthy set up. I hope someone took pictures!

Final Thoughts:

These ladies are pretty lucky to have Ina Garten on speed dial for their party advice needs.

Ina is obviously a master party planner for fancy shin-digs, but I love her ideas for making even the humble potluck stylish.

I think Amanda won the cooking part of the competition, but Katie was definitely Miss Congeniality.

Lessons Learned:

I’m a sucker for any recipe that prominently features lemon and with my new grill pan I’m now able to take on more recipes that involve grilling, hence the Lemon Chicken with Broccoli and Bowties, was right in my wheelhouse. This recipe isn’t necessarily difficult, but it is one that rewards the organized cook, especially because it takes marinating time, multiple stages, etc.

No snafus in the preparation, but a few recommendations:

1. I marinated the chicken overnight, which I think was a good move.

2. The giant-ness (totally a word) of the chicken breasts I had meant that 10 minutes per side wasn’t quite enough to cook the chicken all the way through. I used a meat thermometer - always a good idea when preparing poultry - to help me make sure they were done.

3. My major recommendation is around the proportions. I only needed one large chicken breast and two broccoli heads to balance against 1/2 pound of bowtie pasta. Depending on your preferences this might be something to keep an eye on as you’re assembling the final dish.

Small Kitchen Friendly?

Kinda. I used a large pot (broccoli & pasta), a cast iron grill pan, and a small sauté pan. I also needed a medium cutting board, strainer, medium food storage container (for marinating the chicken), slotted spoon, microplane grater, measuring cups/spoons, meat thermometer, and a chef’s knife.

The Verdict:

Mike and I both loved the Lemon Chicken with Broccoli and Bowties and when the entire recipe disappeared in only a day or two I wished I had made a bigger batch. The flavors are delicious and improve with an overnight in the refrigerator, so don’t be afraid to make this ahead of time or extra for leftovers. Definitely a great dish for an easy lunch with friends or as a contribution to a potluck picnic. It does take a few steps, but the results are worth it.