Zucchini Pancakes

August 05, 2015 by Laura Messersmith in Cooking with the Contessa

Each week I follow along with Ina Garten (aka the Barefoot Contessa) and attempt to recreate one of her dishes in my tiny New York City kitchen. The catch? This is my version of cooking school and I’m making these recipes for the first time. I’ll share both my successes and um, challenges, along the way and we’ll see if I can keep up with the Contessa!

Episode: “Farm Stand Food”

The Set-up: Ina is taking recipe inspiration from the veggies she finds in her CSA box.

The Menu: Scalloped Tomatoes, Zucchini Pancakes, Cape Cod Chopped Salad

0:41 – Ina has her weekly CSA box of vegetables from Amber Waves Farm and now she has to figure out what to make with everything, which seems kind of stressful!

1:39 – The box yields tomatoes, garlic, basil and two small-ish baguettes, which she says she can make into Scalloped Tomatoes. So that’s a few things spoken for at least.

2:16 – Apparently this Scalloped Tomatoes recipe is perfect with basically everything you could imagine and is one of Ina’s go-to side dishes. She doesn’t actually dare us to find a main course that it won’t go with, but it’s implied.

3:20 – While Ina dices the plum tomatoes we get an overview of Amber Waves Farm and the work that they’re doing in the community to educate people on farming.

4:34 – These are some lucky farmers with both Ina and Eli Zabar singing their praises. I’m convinced at least.

5:09 – Back to the Scalloped Tomatoes, which seem to consist of toasted baguette, sautéed tomatoes, and roughly chopped basil leaves.

6:12 – Now it goes into the oven with parmesan cheese and a drizzle of olive oil to bake a la a gratin. Yum.

10:44 – Onward to transform the arugula and granny smith apples in the box into a Cape Cod Chopped Salad.

11:15 – Ina tells us that arugula used to be difficult to find in grocery stores but that its popularity has increased a ton over the past few years. I believe it too, it’s my go-to green for salads since it seems to hold up in the fridge longer than other greens.

12:33 – I bet this salad tastes awesome, the ingredients in this salad are such classic combinations – cranberry/apple; blue cheese/walnuts.

13:20 – The apple cider vinegar, maple syrup, and Dijon mustard dressing makes me think of fall. We’re one butternut squash away from the ultimate autumnal salad!

14:18 – If you weren’t convinced before that this is an amazing salad, Ina just added big pieces of crisp bacon. Drops mic. Goes home.

19:47 – The last recipe is for Zucchini Pancakes, which seems like a gift from heaven because what on earth are you supposed to do with all the zucchini!? It’s everywhere!

20:29 – Ina points out that this recipe could be used for potato pancakes too, so file this one away friends!

21:46 – I never thought of zucchini as being especially wet, but Ina says it can release a lot of moisture so sometimes more flour is needed in the batter.

22:13 – Pro Tip #1: Using a combination of butter and olive oil for sautéing gives the flavor of butter, but the high burning temperature of the oil.

23:02 – Pro Tip #2: Just like with regular pancakes, you can tell that the zucchini pancakes are ready to flip when the tiny bubbles start to burst.

24:17 – Ina says if this is eating your vegetables then she’s on board. Well, sure anything pan sautéed in butter is going to taste pretty good, right?

27:30 – A round of “Ask Ina” focuses on produce-related questions. First, Sophie requests corn on the cob recipes and Ina suggests cutting it off the cob and sautéing it with butter salt and pepper. All the flavor and no dental floss needed.

28:22 – Next, Cheryl wants to know how to store fresh garlic so that it lasts longer? Ina recommends keeping the head of garlic in its paper at room temperature in a dry, well-ventilated place (ie. don’t peel all your garlic, wrap it in plastic, and keep it in the fridge.)

29:14 – Bill wonders if heirloom tomatoes really do taste different from traditional tomatoes? Ina assures him that they definitely do have a different flavor, but if heirlooms aren’t available that cherry or grape tomatoes tend to be more flavorful and roasting a tomato always brings out its best.

29:40 – Lastly, Cynthia and her family are hoping Ina can convert them into fennel lovers with a new way to cook it. Ina commiserates and says she only likes it roasted in the oven with a sprinkle of parmesan cheese. And that’s that!

Final Thoughts:
Zucchini varieties have such adorable names! Seabring, magda, and bush baby sound like characters from a children’s book.

I wonder what other grate-able vegetables could be turned into pancakes? Beets? Squash?

It comforts me to know that even Ina finds it challenging to come up with ways to use her CSA box.

Lessons Learned:
You probably realized before I did that Zucchini Pancakes are essentially the same as a potato latke. It should surprise no one that I’ve never made a latke before, so that didn’t really help me at all! Here’s what I learned along the way.

Zucchini to Flour Ratio – Ina warned us, but I was still surprised! Grated zucchini slowly releases moisture and I found myself starting with just a few tablespoons of flour thinking that was enough. As the mixture sat, even for a minute or two between sautéing batches, I’d need to add another tablespoon or two to get the right consistency. Something to keep an eye, on and next time I think I’d do what Deb at Smitten Kitchen recommends and wring the shredded zucchini in cheese cloth.

Sautéing – An opportunity to put into practice all the pan-frying I’ve done in the last year (thanks pork schnitzel, chicken piccata, goat cheese salad…) As always, resist crowding the pan and cook in batches to get a crispy golden crust; watch for the bubbles to form and burst.

Portioning – I’d recommend starting with 1-2 tablespoons of batter per pancake and spreading the batter out a little. Go for thinner and larger in circumference so that the center cooks fully.

Reheating – No need to worry about having leftovers, I found that I could reheat these on a sheet pan at 350 degrees for 5-6 minutes per side.

Small Kitchen Friendly?
Absolutely. I needed a medium mixing bowl, box grater, small cutting board, chef’s knife and measuring spoons. I also used a large non-stick sauté pan, a baking sheet lined with paper towels, a rubber spatula, a large spoon, and a butter knife.

The Verdict:
I made Zucchini Pancakes for myself during a week when Mike was away for work. I had intended to save him some of the leftovers, but they were so good that by the time he got home from his trip all the extras were mysteriously gone…. I loved the flavor of the zucchini and onion just lightly toasted and golden, and once I had my brainwave about their relation to latkes a little dab of plain greek yogurt (Chobani 4%) was a natural accompaniment. I could easily consume a garden’s worth of zucchini if they came in the form of these pancakes, I bet you could too.

Chicagoland + Reading Material

July 31, 2015 by Laura Messersmith in Reading Material

I’m spending the weekend in the greater Chicagoland area to celebrate the bridal festivities of my sister-in-law, which if all goes to plan will result in lots of great food and wonderful times. I didn’t want to leave you hanging though and so without further ado I present a smattering of Internet fun for your amusement.

Reading Material:

Berries are seriously such divas! Good thing Food52 has some strategies to keep them fuzz-free a few days longer and free us from the tyranny of their delicate constitution.

Did you hear about the kerfuffle the New York Times caused when they suggested that peas belonged in guacamole? (No. Just, no.) Well, a writer from The Atlantic made the recipe. Allow me to preview: “I don’t believe in wasting avocados on an abomination.”

Lovely photography and a little French lesson courtesy of Buzz Feed. Hoping I might be the sortable kind of person…

And while we’re on the subject of French, a blast from the past: a piece from The New Yorker detailing several days of Julia Child’s promotional tour in 1974.

Remember when I spent last summer scouting the best mint chocolate chip ice cream? If Eater is right and these artisan ice cream makers have their way next summer it will be the best salt & pepper, bourbon, green tea swirl.

Summer Fruit Crostata

July 28, 2015 by Laura Messersmith in Cooking with the Contessa

Episode: “Good Catch”

The Set-up: Ina and T.R. are having seafood dinner at his new fishing shack.

The Menu: Parker’s Fish and Chips, Tartar Sauce, Chopped Pickles, Summer Fruit Crostata

0:53 – According to Ina, T.R. is in charge of catching the fish for their dinner but we all know that’s fairly unlikely.

1:07 – Ina is cooking most everything in advance, including the Summer Fruit Crostata.

2:30 – Pro Tip#1: Use unsalted butter so that you can control the amount of salt in a recipe.

3:11 – I can’t be the only one who has a hard time moderating the water in pie crust - it always seems to be too wet or too dry! Naturally, Ina’s is perfect.

4:26 – And now ladies and gents: T.R. looking impossibly dapper in a navy Lacoste polo and admitting that he maaaay have fudged the truth when it came to his fishing experience.

5:14 – We’re back with Ina to mix up the homemade Tartar Sauce and even though she’s using dill pickles she still manages to say “cornichon.” Love it.

6:29 – Next, the Chopped Pickles, essentially the same jarred pickles that went into the tartar sauce jazzed up in pretty slices with fresh minced dill fronds.

10:42 – The crust for the Summer Fruit Crostata has rested and chilled in the fridge and now Ina is rolling it out into a perfect circle. One day that will be me!

11:53 – Now the fruit – peaches, dark plums, and blueberries. Pro Tip #2: You can remove the skin from the peaches by blanching in hot water and shocking them in an ice water bath.

12:35 – Ina has somehow, with no swearing or effort, managed to slice the peaches and the plums right off the inner pit. For my own self-esteem I’m going to chalk that up to expert fruit selection and a little TV magic.

13:19 – Hahahaha. We’re treated to intermittent shots of T.R. faithfully, but fruitlessly casting and reeling from the dock. Poor guy.

14:50 – Thank goodness! We saw the fruit piled in the middle of the crostata dough, but for a second I thought we weren’t going to get a demo of the folding technique. How could I have though Ina would hold out on us?

19:18 – Onward to make the batter for the Parker’s Fish and Chips and Ina promises us that it will be crispy and light, not soggy. Preach girl!

20:36 – Ina compares this process to making pancakes in the morning and suggests that it can all be done in advance.

21:27 – It’s official: T.R. has not caught a fish (perhaps the lack of bait on that hook?) and makes an emergency trip to the seafood market. A much more sensible approach, if you ask me.

22:12 – One last prep task before heading over to T.R.’s: cutting big Idaho baking potatoes in wedges and sprinkling them with salt, rosemary and garlic. Yum!

25:05 – Ina arrives at the fishing shack with an adorable “Yoohoo! T.R.?” and immediately calls him out on ‘catching’ the fish at the Seafood Shop.

26:33 – He’s put to work portioning the fish while Ina puts the chips in the oven to roast.

27:24 – Since the potatoes take 30+ minutes to bake they have time for a glass of wine on the dock as the sun sets. Gorgeous.

28:41 – The fish goes from plate, to seasoned batter, to hot oil and back to a paper towel-lined plate in about 6 minutes. No dredging in flour though, which is surprising.

29:10 – Ina’s kicking this one old-school, roadside stand style with newspaper cones and little containers of pickles and tartar sauce. Crostata is consumed straight from the baking sheet.

Final Thoughts:
Fish and chips seem so much more approachable after watching Ina prep them so simply.

I sincerely would love to do a little dock-sitting if it could be arranged this summer.

T.R. is the consummate rascal and Ina is so classy that even jarred dill pickles aren’t beyond her reach.

Lessons Learned:
In my continued efforts to master pies and pie crust baking Summer Fruit Crostata was another opportunity to test my skills and learn from my mistakes. It was also a chance to emulate one of the more alluring Bon Appetit covers I’ve seen. No one should be surprised that even with the concerted effort I’ve been making I still have room for improvement in this department.

Stone Fruit: Am I the only one who is incredibly intimidated by the process of slicing and removing the pits from peaches, plums & nectarines? The last time I tried the fruit was nearly unrecognizable from the divots and bruises I inflicted just trying to get a few slices free. So. Frustrating.

Before I made the crostata I carefully studied these tips & videos from Mario Batali, Southern Living, The Kitchn, and Food52 and have a few of my own.

· Serrated/utility knife – Stone fruits are like tomatoes, the skin is tougher than you think and the flesh is really delicate. A serrated knife makes a cleaner cut with minimal pressure that might damage the fruit. Slice as close to the pit as you can to make the slices easier to remove.

· The SEAM!!! – All the articles mentioned this, but making that first cut along the seam is more essential to successfully twisting the two halves apart than I realized. We’ve all laughed about how peaches look like little bums, well the seam is the uh, crack of the bum and demarcates the two half sections of the fruit and corresponds to the ridge around the pit. Doing this alone will help you immensely.

· Ripe Fruit – high risk, high reward. The riper the fruit the more easily the fruit is to de-pit, but also bruises more. I’d recommend a firm and persistent, but gentle approach, especially when twisting the two halves apart. Resist pressing your finger tips in too hard and grip more with the palm.

Sweet Dough: Most of the crusts I’ve made so far have involved very little or no sugar at all just flour, butter, water, and salt. This one called for a moderate amount of white sugar; a great compliment to the juicy fruit resulting in a dessert that hovered between sweet and fresh. Fantastic.

Patience: Alas, even though I know that keeping the dough cold is an essential part of the process stubbornness and a short window for baking had me rushing. Couple a lack of time with a hot afternoon and you have a recipe for sticky dough and a frustrating rolling experience. I managed to patch the crostata together, but ideally I’d take note of the sky high temperatures outside and remember to leave myself an extra 30 minutes for chilling time.

Small Kitchen Friendly?
Yes indeed, but clear the counter so you have a place to roll the crust. For the pastry, I used a large bowl, pastry cutter, measuring cups & spoons (all reused later for the topping), a liquid measuring cup, and a rolling pin. For the fruit, I needed a separate medium bowl, serrated utility knife, and small cutting board. (I skipped the orange zest and washed the peaches carefully so I didn’t have to take off the skin.) A baking sheet, plastic wrap and parchment paper round out the “kit.”

The Verdict:
I made Summer Fruit Crostata for friends as a post-dinner treat and based on the silence after the wedges were served, and the speed at which it was consumed this was a hit. This is a dessert that lets the fruit shine without a lot of extra business and when beautiful peaches, plums, and blueberries are in season you really don’t need to gussy them up with a ton of sugar and spices. A simple scoop of vanilla ice cream and you’re off to the races with a perfect slice of summer. Do make this crostata immediately.

Bourbon & Brown Sugar Marinated Steak

July 24, 2015 by Laura Messersmith in Cooking

Every once in a while I’ll be paging through a cooking magazine and a recipe will reach out; grabbing me by the lapels, just begging to be made (proverbially of course.) That was the case with this Bourbon and Brown Sugar Marinated Steak. I found it in a compilation issue of Fine Cooking’s best summer recipes and the name alone summoned mental images of spicy sweet steak consumed on a summer evening somewhere in Kentucky blue grass country.

Wheels were set in motion and a few days later we were channeling a back porch pace up here on the twelfth floor complete thanks to a little urban grilling and some fragrant, ripe peaches. Because what goes better with bourbon than stone fruit?

The humidity has loosened its grip on New York giving way to blessedly fresh mornings and warm afternoons when laying on your back in a lawn of clover while the bumblebees buzz seems like the best possible way to spend an hour or two. This recipe perfectly captures that vibe – gingery warmth, minimal effort.

Bourbon and Brown Sugar Marinated Steak (serves 4)

Ingredients:
1/2 cup low-sodium soy sauce
1/3 cup bourbon or other whiskey
1/3 cup firmly packed brown sugar, preferably dark
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 1/2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger root
1 1/2 to 2 pounds flank steak, or 1 1/2-inch-thick New York strip steaks

Instructions:
Use a paring knife to peel the ginger and then a microplane to finely grate into a medium liquid measuring cup. Add the soy sauce, bourbon, brown sugar, and Dijon mustard to the cup. Whisk together to combine the ingredients and dissolve the sugar.

Place the steak in a large zip top bag and pour the marinade over the meat. Seal the bag and massage to cover the steaks with marinade, and set aside for 15 to 20 minutes at room temperature, or up to 2 hours in the refrigerator. Flip the bag occasionally and if refrigerating bring the steaks back to room temperature before grilling.

Heat a grill pan over medium-high flame for 3-4 minutes. When the pan is hot, remove the steak from the marinade and shake off any excess, but don’t pat it dry. Reserve the marinade.

Grill the steak until good sear marks appear, 3 to 4 minutes. With tongs, rotate the steak 90 degrees (to get a crosshatch of grill marks) and continue grilling until grill marks form and the edges are a little crisp, another 3 to 4 minutes.

Flip the steak and grill the other side in the same way until the exterior is nicely seared and the steak is cooked to your liking, 10 to 12 minutes total cooking time for medium rare. Let the steaks rest for about 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, pour the reserved marinade into a small saucepan and boil over medium-high heat until syrupy, about 5 minutes. Stir occasionally and watch carefully to prevent burning.

When the sauce is thickened and the meat has rested, slice the flank steak thinly across the grain. For strip steaks, slice thickly or serve in chunks. Serve with a drizzle of the sauce

Re-written and slightly adapted from Molly Steven’s Bourbon and Brown Sugar Marinated Steak in Fine Cooking magazine.

Small Kitchen Friendly?
Yes, indeed! I used a two-burner cast iron grill pan, tongs, microplane grater, paring knife, and medium cutting board. I also needed a large liquid measuring cup, dry measuring cups/spoons, and a dinner fork, a large zip top bag (1 gallon size) and aluminum foil.

The Verdict:
We loved the Bourbon and Brown Sugar Marinated Steak preparation – savory soy sauce, the alcoholic sharpness of the bourbon, all balanced against smoky sticky caramelized sugar. I served the flank steak along with a fresh salad of baby spinach topped with blueberries and a few slivered almonds – special shout out from Mike for the accompanying grilled peaches as a way to bridge the gap. This recipe is incredibly easy and the results are excellent.